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Break in proceedure A buddy of mine bought a mustang 5.0 about the same time I did. His brother worked for Roush Racing and told him to go run it hard with lots of engine braking to seat the chrome rings. I did it the other way, slow and easy. Ours are both running fine still, I got over...

Thanks guys. I figured just a cheap stand will do it, just never worked a 4 cyl FWD before. I't would take me like a full day to move all the s*** that's in the storage building in front of the 289. Then it's on a heavy stand that has legs so wide my hoist won't fit up to it. If no one has...

I'm getting ready to pull my motor, trans and carriage for a forged mod. I'd like to find a build up stand that would hold the whole assembly and roll it around. Has anyone ever seen any thing like that? I'll probably need to fab one myself so I'd need some rough idea of the total weight...

The amsoil looks great. Getting past the chrome, the rubber flare at the bottom should help cut the inlet losses a bit better. Looks like a parabolic profile unless that's just the way the picture is oriented. There's a big pressure loss at the end of a straight pipe due to turbulence...

Disappearing oil, it's magic! (shocked)This is exactly why I do all my own work. The only time I the oil was changed in my mustang, actually my wife cause I was working TDY for months, the bastards stripped both drain plugs. I have exactly the same issue when I change my mustang's oil. I get...

Everything takes 2-3x's as long as you estimate. Still have mine in the box, thanks for letting me know what to plan on.

And don't run synthetic until it's broke in.

Welcome. I've heard of some recommendations to change the oil right away, lots of sharp edges and stuff during assembly. Wish I had done that to mine but it's coming apart for some forged rods/pistons. Also, keep and eye on the hose clamps on the intake side. Lots of talk about them getting...

Thanks.

Just Blueprinting or did you port at the same time? The shop I've spoken with can handle everything. They are even tied in with a custom piston fabricator that will produce pistons from forged blanks for $150 ea. if needed. Never started out for this kind of build, but it's tempting, very...

Thanks, good explanation of all the reasons to go over on the pistons. Sounds like an awful lot of work when I just started out looking for a bit of insurance going for 350 whp. I suppose if you are going to do it, might as well do it right. On the other hand going to have to stop somewhere...

I apologize up front if this has already been answered but have had no luck with a search. Looks like some special tools are required to set valve timing after the crank has been removed. The factory SM is a POS. The sprockets are not keyed and must be locked in place (tapered shaft I...

I've been looking around and have seen some recommendations for the Spec Stage2Plus for a DD. Still looking to see if anyone has had issues with the lightweight flywheel being too light causing stalling or rough idles. So far no definitive answer.

I'm planning on going with new forged rods and pistons from the start. Would like to get to 350 whp, possibly adding a big turbo down the road. The car has under 1400 miles on it so consider this my insurance for pitching the warrenty.

By the way, I posted this question because I've seen quite a few members suggest going .020 over.

Thanks, I think the machine shop was asking for something a bit different but the only way to get there would be oversize the piston and bore. Don't think I'd be wanting to do that. He was specifically asking about the recommended piston to bore clearance for the specific piston I'd be using...

OK, so here's hopefully not too dumb a question. I've decided to add some new rods and pistons from the start. Probably go with the Pauter/Arias set you offer, unless you suggest otherwise. Will also order the ARP head stud kit. Just got off the phone with the shop in Orlando that will be...