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[/b] you can barely see the turbine section on the engine. its the rusty round thing above where the 2 L's are on the valve cover.

http://www.pbase.com/wyk/image/26648557 put one of those in it. they only weigh a couple thousand pounds...

no prob, bob... :D

i am sorry, but i am forced to call extreme bulls*** on this one... first, a RWD SR20 would never, ever fit in a FWD chassis, unless you cut a hole down the center for the rear axle and made it RWD... the bellhousing won't even come close to matching. the intake manifold would terminate in...

ahh, memories. accidentally hit my HKS EVC IV shifting into fourth (its in the center console below my elbow and the knob was up) and ran up 30 psi on a stock bottom end. i melted a plug and put a nice hole in #4, you can see the con rod through the hole. the piston skirt stayed intact, so...

como?

if your diff is locked too much, it gets darty under braking too, that is why i asked. how's your alignment?

does it do this under load only, or even when coasting? the diff is pretty much open when youre coasting or braking. also, does it get darty when braking hard?

close. your MSP uses a Tochigi Fuji Sangyo diff. these diffs use a cone clutch similiar to the synchros in your transmission. As tq is applied to the ring gear, the pinions in the diff generate a spreading load as the tires resist turning, forcing the side gears (one on each tire) into...

no. they had a regular SR16VE and they had the N1 version. the N1 version was EXTREMELY rare, but a factory nissan engine it is, and could be checked off on the options list. there are also 20V versions (they just called them that, they still had 16 valves) of the SR20VE that made over 200...

he's still running the stock bottom end right? wonder how much longer it will last... stock SR20 record is 649whp, lets see if he can beat that, s***. :D

yeah, i stared at his red light for a little while before the 3rd yellow came up for me. he redlighted so bad he didnt even get a reaction time.

uhh. you can get RWD SR20DEs for $700-900 for the engine, tranny, harness and ECU. if youre going to upgrade the turbo anyway, this is the way to go. my car made 462whp on the stock 9.5:1 CR motor. the only mod to the motor itself was a set of mild tomei cams. this was at 24 psi of...

he diod 131mph off the bottle? most impressive. looks like i will finally have to have my ECU tuned (still running a standard plug and play program).

yes, he has come quite a way with that thing since i ran him. i plan on hitting mid 11s by next year in my car..... on STREET tires. :D the car has already gone 129mph in the 1/4, boost only, no nitrous. IIRC, Dave is running nitrous on his car. but, alas, i am also starting my foray into...

uhhh, i drove all the way to LACR to race this guy, to find him on slicks. he didnt even want to race me, we ended up lining up by accident (some other cars in his lane wanted to race each other, so his line moved faster). i wanted to race him anyway for fun, figuring we would have a real...

yes, i know. hence the green smiley, s***.:D

since i cryo'd/shotpeened my stock gearset, i have yet to break anything tranny related. this is with about 50 drag passes on slicks. so KMA. :D wanna see? meet me at carlsbad and bring money.

i trap identical MPH, slicks or street tires. i have run a 12.9 @ 107 on my T25, and i hit a 13.4 @ 107 on street tires. i dont run slicks at 9 psi, as it doesnt help traction that much and kills my my top end. i usually run 15-20 psi, it also makes it less scary at over 120mph...

i wouldnt think too hard or hold your breathe to see this one. maybe he is going to put it in the back seat and drive the rear tires with a chain, motorcycle style, s***. :D