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Twilight I'm slightly under your total lift more so on the exhaust, and I thought that was pushing the stock valve setup. The overall problem with my setup is that even with a 230 lb. clutch and motormounts, its jerky in town driving. Works poorly with the stock intake too. A big flat spot...

Nick, I realize when a lot of development time goes into getting just the right cam numbers, so one's never egar to share the specs. But there are a few of us that have had custom grinds done, like Twilight and myself for example, and we'd be really curious. I just pulled numbers out of my...

Most all cams are 'advertised' at .050" lift, but mine are custom and nobody's advertising anything. Mine are both 257 degrees @0 lash, or full duration, if that's what you mean. Lobe centers are symetric @105 degrees with .020" lift.

MMS = Mazda Motorsports. Sometimes you can backdoor to their catalog at http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CPSearch. Not much in the way of details though, just part numbers.

The durations listed are at the standard .050" lift. I came up with the specs myself, measured the existing timing and sent some stock cams out for weld up and regrind with the new specs. That's before MMS had the blanks for sale. If you go custom get the blanks, over all its much cheaper...

My understanding is that which ever cat the OBDII sensor is sitting behind is the primary cat. Many cars have close coupled cat as their only converter because thats where the temp is the highest and the conversion is most efficent. The second cat on the Protege is only considered a polishing...

I have custom cams at 227 degrees ex, and 223 in, same ramp rate and .010" extra lift on both. 6 degrees overlap with symetrical lobe centers. There's a 4 degree static timing advance which works out well to sync with the exhaust cam pickup. Got a 4-2-1 header and cat-less exhaust, but still...

I have a P5 with the AWR header. Been on for about two months. I was averaging around 30mpg before, and now its closer to 35. At the rate I drive, Orlando to the Cape, it should pay for itself by the end of the year.

I've had the AWR header on my P5 since May, and was sure it would throw a CEl in the first 100 miles. It came on briefly a few days ago and went out the next day. I know OBDII and don't understand why its not on more, but what the hell. Without a problem I'm not going to waste my time doing...

I've had Tony's header on for about 4-1/2 weeks now, and I have no complaints. There aren't any leaks (I used Coppercoat on the OEM gasket), the fit is better than some other pipes I've installed and still no CEL. I'm sure the CEL will come on sooner or later, knowing how OBDII works, but...

Sorry to hear you had problems Mac. I was told each unit was fit checked before it was shipped, but that clearly wasn't the case. Install wasn't that bad for me. I fly cut the flang first thing based on the look of it alone. Once I got it in and saw the EGR fit I went down to the plumbing...

I just received the lastest header from AWR and it looks good. It's a SS 4-2-1, has two O2 bosses and the EGR boss in the right place. Looks like it will clear the lower water hose OK too, and shouldn't require any modification. Workmanship is first rate with very clean welds and smooth...

I got a spare set and had them hardface welded and reground by Crower. Cost just under $600. Haven't used them yet though, because as everyone else stated there's a lot to do before they'll work. They've been sitting around awhile. You can spec cams first and build a head to match easy...

If your a cheap lazy bastard like me and don't want to change your mounts even if they're coming apart, do like me and pound some wine corks into the mount ring. It ain't pretty and probably don't last long, but it has worked for me. You'll need to cut the corks in half length wise first...

I almost bought the AWR links and control arms, but then on second thought that seemed to be over kill for street use, and $$$. They'd kick butt on the track though, and beat a bushing swap all to pieces. Urethane stock is cheap enough and it's easy to machine, if you can even call it...

The exhaust cam hal sensor is only there to prevent people from easily changing the valve timing. I works too don't it. Look for things like this to become very popular in years to come, as a means to ensure emissions aren't messed with. It's being called enhanced tamper resistent OBDII, but...

I its just a magnet that you tie wrap to the fuel line. I've seen the same thing marketed under another name for fuel, and household water lines. It is truely a crock of s***.

The only way to find out how much lift they'll take is to tear it down or find blue prints, neither of which I've done yet. I'm sure the valves will float at higher revs anyway, so I've resolved to do the cams, pulleys, valve train, head and ECU all at once. That is if I get to it before the...

Those durations are good for FI, as long as you don't dial in any overlap. I'd go with more lift though, and plan on reworking the head at the same time like the man said. You will need higher rate springs, and it would be good to loose some bucket and retainer weight too. Otherwise stick...