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Looking for a Forge BPV, preferably black but I'll consider silver too. Anyone have one?

I've done this on my Cobb SRI as well, same filter. I also did a little write up on MSF.org about how you can visibly see the differences in filtration. Took a couple of pictures showing that you can actually see pinholes of light through the gauze filter, whereas it was solid with the Amsoil...

Hwy 191 from Alipine AZ to Morenci AZ. 1100+ turns in 93 miles, most at 6000-9000 ft elevation. Officially the curviest highway in the country. And best of all, almost never ANY traffic as it goes between two "nowheres". http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYEXh3qKQMY Take that Tail of the...

So, isn't this going to end up costing more (maybe a lot more) than a GT?

I've kind of kicked around the idea of Lizard Skin. Seems easier than something like Dynamat. I wonder how well it works, though.

Well, I hooked mine up per Moose's recommendation. I am running a JoeP Inline Boost Controller, a ball and spring type. The first way I had it was to have the MBC inlet to the WGA. My thinking was based off Moose mentioning that the WGA ports were straight through, therefore, the boost coming...

Amsoil is the best. Dry filter, no "recharging" needed.

Nice testing methodology. I'd like to see if/when you get a CAI and/or TMIC or FMIC. The drop in temp with rise in boost is easy to explain. It's all about convective cooling. When at idle, or under no boost, there is very little airflow inside the intercooler. The airflow through the...

Ok. I've done a little writeup on this subject on one of these boards, just can't remember which. Anyways, the jist of it was that the gap recommended by Cobb (0.026-0.028") was specifically for the Densos. This gap does not apply to any other plug. Reason being is that Densos are the only...

Actually, Iridiums are much harder than stock electrodes. This is why OEMs rate them for 100K miles, because the electrode is so hard that it wears much less quickly than comparitively soft copper or steel center electrodes. The hardness is also what makes them delicate to gap. They are so...

Well, just did this mod, ground about 0.20" off each of the four bushings. Let me begin by saying thanks to the OP for this idea. First thing I realized after doing this was "wow, people actually pay ~$40 for those bushings?" I totally misunderstood the point of the bushings until this mod...

My stock measurements were 26.5" front and 26.625" rear. But, that was on 225/40R18, so that should be 0.5" diameter smaller or 0.25" shorter overall. So, I'm guessing that with stock 215/45R18s I would have measured 26.75" front and 26.875" rear. After, I'm measuring 25.75" front and 26.5"...

I've got the rear bar set to "stiffer" with the OEM front. Seems to work fine. Not a whole hell of a lot of SOTP difference between "stiff" and "stiffer".

Measurements?

C'mon guys! No one's willing to go out with a tape measure and take some quick measurements? I'm dying to see some numbers from other Cobbies. Hell, for that matter, I'd like to see some measurments from the H&R and Mazdaspeed guys as well. Do I smell a sticky brewing?

I understand exactly what you're talking about there. However, like you, mine only changed about 1/8" over the course of a week or two. I also paid very close attention to the location of the spring in the "cup" to ensure that the coil end was in the little cut-out for it. If not, it would...

Did you take before and after measurements? What is your rear at right now?

Well, it's been a while since installing, so I'm sure they're about as settled as they're going to get. I'm happy with the ride and the improvement in handling, but I'm really disappointed with the drop (or lack thereof). Ened up with 0.75" drop in the front, and 0.125" in the rear. Don't see...

Because I'm a tight ass and want a cheap used one. (lol2)

Broke one of the damned BPV bolts in the cold pipe. I could probably just drill and tap it out, but if someone has one for sale, I'd probably rather go that route.