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Hi - sorry these are sold. Updated original post.

Header is sold. Price adjust on the wheels.

Don't think it will be worth it for you. Shipping will be like 80 to 100.

Bump as I added wheels. Make me an offer!

I bought a lower quality knock off before this and it leaked. This one fits. A pro tip is to screw on the EGR pipe to the header first BEFORE you bolt to the head, and make sure you install the donut gasket, which you can carefully pry off the OEM manifold or get a new one from Mazda. Other than...

Treat yourself! Authentic OBX Protege 2.0 L 4-1 Stainless Steel header. Used it for a year, took it off for smog, then never put it back. Gave a nice, modest increase up top. Just been sitting gathering dust (indoors). $60 OBO. I prefer pick (San Diego, CA area). If you want it shipped then...

PM'd :)

Any offers? I'm moving soon, you guys should take advantage of that (spin)

This FS ZE has a busted head gasket due to radiator rupture that ended in an overheat. Car was still running when I pulled it out. It's just been sitting for 1.5 years - wanted to keep it for spare parts or a rebuild but I'm moving. Motor had ~80,000 miles when I pulled it out. All auxiliaries...

Are those 17inch Mazda 3 wheels? What series tires are those?

Hey everyone, I'm interested in getting the Wagner Header. Any of those still floating around? OR maybe a FS ZE exhaust manifold?

Doh! Thanks for the correction! My throwout bearing still didn't look the best when I took it out. It would feel rough and would make a rubbing sound when I spun it by hand. Point is, the throwout bearing (not the pilot bearing) was most likely causing the noise similar to what the OP mentioned...

They're not THAT hard to find ;) My FS-ZE overheated so it is currently sitting on my driveway. I am willing to bet that the cams are still good. I have never heard of a brief overheat warping the cams, though I'm sure it's possible. Also, the car still ran after the overheat. I would be...

I agree. I recently did my clutch, and I found that my PILOT bearing was bad. I mean bad. See what I mean? Crazy part is, my car drove smooth for the most part; no sputter or vibration. However, there was that squeak you talked about when you depressed the clutch, which is a tell tale sign of...

This is just to gauge interest. Proper signage and pictures will ensue if there's enough interest. Hi all, About a year ago my radiator burst on the highway and the head gasket on my FS-ZE failed. It cranked on fine but definitely felt off from loss of power and had the classic "milky" coolant...

That's a little presumptuous don't you think? To my knowledge, I did not specify any location of the knock sensor (which I assumed you already knew from your first post), other than implying that it was near the intake manifold bracket. I didn't mean to imply that, I'm sorry if you interpreted...

Sorry for the late reply. Yes I do have a P5. I'm glad that you were able to get the job done! I apologize, I had assumed that you already knew where the location of the knock sensor was. Now that you know where it is, I hope you can see why taking the intake manifold off (not just the bracket)...

I have removed it. Try to see if you can get a 24mm (I believe is the size) crow's foot socket or wrench to reach it with the wire harness still intact. Lift the car up and take off the intake manifold support bracket that fastens that intake manifold to the block. That should give you a little...

FYI I got rid of the noise. My noise was coming from the passenger side when turning right, so I removed and took apart the whole brake assembly, used brake parts cleaner here and there, made sure everything was sitting flush, putting everything back together. The noise has been gone for a week...

Would you be able to capture the sound with a video?