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i did it not long ago.. pretty sure its 160-165psi with a 5%allowed tolerance between each cyl.. i wish my shop didnt have my manual still, got it from mazda, its their shop book.. like 800 pages

"appearance" purposes can hurt your car.. always be thinking performance gains and healthy cycling for your engine.. really i think the BOV should be as close to the TB as possible.. therefor, whenever your TB slams shut and the residual pressurized air is still in the piping, the BOV...

Nearing the end of my build and trying to tie up the loose ends, I was planning on deleting the egr with 505' s intake mani but my option is still open, so really, I don't care, just looking for the best choice for my engine. Any input is good input, what's up?

No tracking number for me, taken the spot of theEZV

Lol, my body kit is attached by tape? Ha!

So I'm painting my car, everything is prepped but the bumpers, for some reason I can't remove the kit from the bumpers, has anyone gotten then apart and back together easily? How are they attached? Id rather not paint a crack you know Any help us greatly appreciated

im glad man :D just takes practice

12.5k isnt my budget for the build.. its total car + build compared to just buying another stock car with higher horsepower.

P m ' d

z06 in good condition, its a 2002 and guy was down on his luck in the market slump 2-3 years ago.. im not a coupe person and the custom is what i go for.. even if i get a bmw m3 with 350hp then ill still want to do s*** to it.. the money is more worthwhile in a car that has potential, not...

definitely not for everyone. ive had a dream since i was a little boy to take just an average car and turn it into something special. my new goal is to beat my boss and his z06 for under the price he got it for. $12,500.

my block is at a machine shop now. youre just going to have to call around for prices but.. so far everyone is close. 900 for rods and pistons. another 250-350 for bearings, seals, headstuds, gaskets and whatnot.. the block work is as follows 40$ block boil 30$ block head mill 40$ bore...

stock downpipe is less than 2" inside diameter. very curvy.

spun a rod. same tick in my block. had to get the crank ground and oversized bearings. went forged and doing things right now.

ready.

if its an introduction your looking for into modifying the car, i wouldnt straight up start with the exhaust. BUT i know tons of people just go straight to exh for sound, so to each man his own.. the vibrant exhaust is a good deal and sounds great. the good thing about it too is that it leaves...

Its not the outside of the weld that matters.. you want the inside of the weld to be as smooth as the outside. obviously you can grind it smooth but you first need to ensure you have full penetration with a good back.. sorry man but from another tig welder here, i can see your getting...

ive got a ssf/tc up for grabs if you want it.. the sale thread was around here somewhere...

my engine is at a shop too and i just told them to punch the damn squirters out and i would get replacements.. im planning on pushing 300-400hp and am really quite hesitant towards not replacing them.. where is the doc b available?

so my machine shop wants to know if our block should be using ARP bolts or stud caps to keep the crank in place?