Search results

FS: Yellow MSP 45k , $12.2k OBO (price dropped! ) Ladies and gents, today is a sad day. I have decided to sell my MSP. The car is absolutely wonderful, and has served me very, very well. It is simply time to move on to something I can drive in the snow. Thus, the entry of a WRX. The Car...

I have heard of vacuum leaks causing too lean and too rich conditions. I don't think it's an O2 sensor problem, because I tested it, and it's functioning properly, fluctuating normally at idle from about .25V to about .85V. To clarify, I didn't have a problem getting the bolts that bolt the...

bump.

hmmm I can give you 70 bucks with the harness since that's what I sold mine for, with the harness. -Mateo

That's what I need. it obviously has to function. I would really appreciate the harness as well. Show me what you've got and I'll make you an offer! Later. -Mateo

Hello again, I have another problem as usual. To start out, if you don't know me, I'm not an idiot, I'm attempting to get my MSP back to stock with motor #3. It's running pretty well, all considering, but I have a single CEL: bank one too rich. it doesn't warm up properly, but cruises fine...

that's a good point, taking the lines off of your throttle body would be a good way to do it, if they have enough pressure. I'ev also seen it done by tapping into the heaterlines. This isn't as accessible if the motor is still in the car, though. -Mateo

yep, that's a windage tray, and cutting it won't hurt a thing. Just clean up the edges when you're done so you don't have bits of metal flying around later when they work themselves off. -Mateo P.S. I've done this on quite a few mustang motors, so I've tried it and it works.

It's hard to say what kind of regulators are on ebay. I'd be willing to bet that you'd be able to find at least one of each kind every day on ebay. If it has a port for a vacuum line, it's either a 1:1 or rising rate (if it's aftermarket). -Mateo

F2T? am i missing something?

perhaps this will help.

I've seen a few things recently involving confusion about FPR's, so I thought I'd share what I've picked up from working as a mechanic for a few years now. There are 5 main types of regulators. 1)non-adjustable static: does not see intake pressure, can't be adjusted by the user...

good thoughts. I don't have a lot of experience with BP's, as the only thing I've done with my miatas have been intake and exhuast, so to stay in class (BSP and Spec Miata). Any vague idea how much power the aforementioned setup would put down? -Mateo

someone close this thread.

it's interesting, if you don't turbo the rotary, it honestly doesn't make much more power than the BP engine. However, if you turbo a BP, you don't get nearly the power output of a rotary. It last longer, though. interesting tradeoffs. -Mateo

haha, kinda tricky huh?

problems! i got the bosch universal and wired it up, and I'm getting a code for heater ciruit too high. More info here. -Mateo

Ok, I have a CEL for O2 sensor #1 heater ciruit too high, meaning (from the service manual, protege5.ugly.net), that the PCM isn't seeing -12V at terminal it grounds to turn on the heater. that means the heater doesn't turn on, and I think it's causing my car to run like crap when it's cold...

I'm recirculating my HKS within a few days, on a kit similar to Hiboost's. I'll let you know how it goes.

i plan on going into that if and when i figure out if i did. do you have any information on simliarities? Do they plug into the same socket? -Mateo