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no on the hose?

sounds like a bad caliper, but also check out your brake hose. If you get a new caliper i would recommend doing your brake hose too, to be safe.

I would highly recommend getting stainless steel lines. They really improve your brake pedal response. Because unlike rubber hoses the ss lines dont expand as much when you hit the pedal because of all the pressure.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123673024 read the last post

I m not exactly sure what the stuff is called but if you goto pepboys or autozone they have awesome stuff. The jar says Synthetic caliper grease. We use it at my shop, and never had any problems. But everybody has their own preference. Oh, and when you put the grease on make sure you dont...

The reason that they were probably very tight is because under the caliper slides(metal where the tip of the pads go) rust builds up after a while. And because the rust takes up that space when you put the pad in its very tight. What you did was prob not a good idea, but if its a little snug...

say you are working on the left front wheel, the end of the slot at the top of the rotor has to be facing to the right(i dont know if i explained that well enough). I didnt think it made a difference either but on my previous car that i owned i accidently had it the exact opposite way and at...

yea, pretty much when you are messing or taking apart any part of the suspension its a good idea to get an alighnment, or at least have it checked to be safe than sorry.

it could actually be a number of things. Your caliper might be bad. Or who ever did the brake job might have twisted the break hose a little too much when setting it aside and kinked it, which in turn wont let the correct amount of brake fluid to the caliper. If i were you id do a quick check...

the sqeaking is probably your sway bar bushings, i believe there is a TSB out for them. But if your also hearing clanking and banging it could be your strut mounts, blown struts, many things really. An easy way to know for sure if its your sway bar or not is to disconnect your sway bar or take...

gotcha

Dude i would be careful with taking that screen out. I once accidently dropped a little rubber grommet inside the hole where my air temp sensor went in the pipe without knowing then started up the car. Later on realizing i lost it and took out the pipe and saw it resting across the screen. It...

sounds like you have the narrowband guage. All that guage really tells you is that your o2 sensor is working, by switching from rich to lean rapidly. if you get the wideband it should give you a number readout. The higher the number the leaner, the lower the richer. You want the "perfect"...

how come its not recommended to use bigger injectors with the unichip? I mean when you tune it you start from scratch, right?

Amsoil 5w30 all the way. If people are burning oil and such, the oil isnt the problem if you change it when you're suppose to, youve got some motor problems.

thanks for the info guys

how much whp can the hiboost fmic handle effiently?

and also whats mpi nicks screenname, i tried messaging him as mpinick and mpi_nick and it said he didnt exist.

So youre also saying that he can port and polish the turbo and rebuild it for around $650?

No i think the cause was compressor surge, ive only got 48k on it, Jesus christ! But anyway still looking to see what the direct replacement turbo is, meaning bolts up like stock.