N7turbo
2023 CX-5 2.5T ... 2024 MX-5 RF GT
Yeah. If changing at 3500 miles, skip the filter and change it every other time.That's a lot of oil changes!
Yeah. If changing at 3500 miles, skip the filter and change it every other time.That's a lot of oil changes!
I did that with my Tacoma.Yeah. If changing at 3500 miles, skip the filter and change it every other time.
Has anybody ever seen comparative VOAs between Kirkland and other Warren brands? I've read that Costco goes beyond regular Top Tier standards with their gasoline, and I wonder if KS motor oil would get a better add pack than, say, Meijer oil.I would have used Kirkland stuff which apparently is the exact same thing…
Has anybody ever seen comparative VOAs between Kirkland and other Warren brands? I've read that Costco goes beyond regular Top Tier standards with their gasoline, and I wonder if KS motor oil would get a better add pack than, say, Meijer oil.
This sounds familiar as I just came across this video yesterday:Yeah. If changing at 3500 miles, skip the filter and change it every other time.
I understand where you're coming from. Besides getting samples analyzed, have you tried cutting open your used filters?Been using Super Tech full synthetic and filters. 190k on cx 5 2014 and 127k on cx 9 2016. I did an oil report on it. I travel a lot and having a buffer on oil life is important. Super tech normal filter is 10k miles. Oil rated for 20k. If I know I'll be going longer, I just upgrade my oil filter to 15k.
Cx do burn oil so 8k the would add up, best to half to 1 qt if you pushing to 9-12k.
Traveling nurse, so I might drive cross country. I don't trust bringing my car to any shop. I rather bring car home after contact and work on it.
Naw, not worth my trouble. If there was things that concerning, it would be in the oil sample I sent already 2x. The ST sample was done after my Castrol GTX UItra Clean 0W/20.I understand where you're coming from. Besides getting samples analyzed, have you tried cutting open your used filters?![]()
If you got it at 24k and it never had an oil change, it seems you have done well to get to 90k without issues.Naw, not worth my trouble. If there was things that concerning, it would be in the oil sample I sent already 2x. The ST sample was done after my Castrol GTX UItra Clean 0W/20.
My cx 9 was used and I think the lady drove it 24k without ever doing an oil change... I took a gamble on it. Moto Medic 5 min flush, Filed with Auto RX. I drove it 2k miles, then flushed it with liqui moly.
The flush it with liquid moly again at 90k.
I do send scope down engine to look, looks clean and all.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is currently the best choice. Regulations exist that allow the 'synthetic' word to be used on labels when the oil really isn't synthetic. Rather, manufacturers are able to purify natural oil to meet the regulatory specifications and use 'synthetic' on their label.I'm wondering what the general consensus it on the brand of oil for the 2nd gen CX-9. Some swear on Mobil 1 and some stay with Castol Edge as the "dealer's recommendation". Any noticeable difference in MPG and/or engine NVH when switching between brands? Catrol Edge alone has the black and gold bottles.
My cx 5 was only on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for a while. When I switched it to mix of another brands. The inside got darker for sure. Might be age of car, might be switch. They screwed me on my rebate, so I'm being petty. Not going to use them againPennzoil Ultra Platinum is currently the best choice. Regulations exist that allow the 'synthetic' word to be used on labels when the oil really isn't synthetic. Rather, manufacturers are able to purify natural oil to meet the regulatory specifications and use 'synthetic' on their label.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is truly synthesized from a liquid natural gas starting material (not natural poly alpha olefin stock) and is a high-performance racing oil, unlike the Mobil 1, Castrol, products etc. It’s wise to research the subject carefully when choosing.
Well… yeah. 99% of them are using the same base oils, and the API and other standards dictate what goes into the add pack (maybe not directly, but with a given additive’s effect on performance being what it is, there are only so many recipes a manufacturer can follow that give the desired result).I am strongly convinced that there is little to no noticeable difference between many oil brands.
I am strongly convinced that there is little to no noticeable difference between many oil brands.
For 99.9% of the motoring community, it really doesn't make any difference what brand of oil is used as long as it meets Mazda specs. This is a lot to do about nothing IMHO.
I am content overall with how PUP performed here, but it got beat in oil temp, torque, wear metals, and turbo deposits by Liquimoly. The torque and oil temp tests also reveal it will get better gas mileage. But PUP is cheaper and has better shear and oxidation stability. So the LM is the better performer but only if you avoid long drain intervals. And it's going to cost you more as well.
After sleeping on this, I think the reason Liquimoly was putting up higher efficiency numbers was due to the increased amount of shearing it saw compared to the others. I would like to see what the viscosities ended up being at the time of the dyno. If I'm right, I would say it's not the better oil.
I don't believe there are any "Mazda specs" unlike Ford/GM/Mercedes/Acura and some others, only to use the latest API/ILSAC spec for direct-injected internal combustion engines (sadly their manuals are still behind the times with mentions of GF-5 which you should avoid due to not having the latest formulation including reduced calcium to prevent LSPI). So stick with the latest spec which keeps oil performance between brands fairly tight. I'm glad we have these standards. But there are still differences.For 99.9% of the motoring community, it really doesn't make any difference what brand of oil is used as long as it meets Mazda specs.