What 5W30 oil brand do you use in your CX-9?

I don't like the idea of stretching intervals in this car because we bought from new and plan to keep a long time. I've been mostly using Supertech Synthetic. GF-6 rating and regular price is very reasonable.I would have used Kirkland stuff which apparently is the exact same thing, but I like the 5L jug over the 4.73L size for the CX-9 oil changes. No thinking, dump the entire thing, and it brings it 3/4 up between the two dots. I end up doing it every four months, which works out to 6-7000 km (3800 - 4300 miles) interval.

I have only ever used the PY8W-14-302, made in Japan filters, bought a box from Partsouq, and then found my local dealership keeps a stash of them whenever they get them in, so bought a bunch.

I have tried Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, and also Valvoline Advanced when I saw them on sale. I have sent all my oil change samples away for analysis just for curiosity more than anything, but there has been no noticeable difference, nothing out of the ordinary (yes, I realize dissolved metals does not exactly equate to wear, but all the oils seem to be doing their job).



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I would have used Kirkland stuff which apparently is the exact same thing…
Has anybody ever seen comparative VOAs between Kirkland and other Warren brands? I've read that Costco goes beyond regular Top Tier standards with their gasoline, and I wonder if KS motor oil would get a better add pack than, say, Meijer oil.
 
Has anybody ever seen comparative VOAs between Kirkland and other Warren brands? I've read that Costco goes beyond regular Top Tier standards with their gasoline, and I wonder if KS motor oil would get a better add pack than, say, Meijer oil.

There is an old Project Farm where he compares the two and they're not 100% exact, but so close that it very well could be. He wasn't testing 0 mile samples, so hard to know. I guess Kirkland does have a different Dexos registration # vs Supertech/Amazon etc, but that could be a Costco thing also.

The PQIA site has some of the info, but I can't find regular Supertech Synthetic 5W30, only the high mileage stuff which is slightly different.

Kirkland is a better $/L price, especially when it goes on sale, but the jugs are just an annoying amount too small. Prob OK, but even with the 5L jug, it doesn't bring it all the way up to the top dot on the dipstick.
 
That's why I always keep a top-up quart or jug on hand. I've had one vehicle out of my last seven or so that took an even jug of any volume to fill the crank case.
 
Been using Super Tech full synthetic and filters. 190k on cx 5 2014 and 127k on cx 9 2016. I did an oil report on it. I travel a lot and having a buffer on oil life is important. Super tech normal filter is 10k miles. Oil rated for 20k. If I know I'll be going longer, I just upgrade my oil filter to 15k.

Cx do burn oil so 8k the would add up, best to half to 1 qt if you pushing to 9-12k.

Traveling nurse, so I might drive cross country. I don't trust bringing my car to any shop. I rather bring car home after contact and work on it.
 

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I would say you have guts taking the oil to 10,000 miles. Note that Blackstone doesn't have as good a read on fuel dilution as Oil Analyzers so it's hard to say, but with the viscosity on the lower end of spec it's either fuel or it's just shearing down, or some of both. I don't agree with them suggesting 12,000 miles for your next change—that is at odds with most oil experts.

I think you should plan on not going beyond 7,500 miles to keep the viscosity up and the additives working their best (some of them lose effectiveness before you get to an extended oil change interval), but it's your vehicle. There's nothing alarming there, but if it were mine I wouldn't go 10,000 miles.
 
Mazda say 7.5k and it's base on their Synthetic-Blend 5W-30. BMW and Toyota for years been doing 10k when their car ask for "Full synthetic".

I generally do mine around 7k, but once again. If I'm traveling it might would go over, I just pour the extra half a qt in, that would boost up viscosity. I also don't recommend going that long, due to possible leak / oil burning you don't know about. I measure my oil after each drain. So I kinda know how much to add if needed.

Unsure about Super Tech, but years ago Mobile 1 released the "One Year old change". With that people mentioned that most "extended" oil had move additives for this very reason.

PS it's funny when I see car channel saying "Don't trust car manufacturer. Do a 3k oil change"
 
Been using Super Tech full synthetic and filters. 190k on cx 5 2014 and 127k on cx 9 2016. I did an oil report on it. I travel a lot and having a buffer on oil life is important. Super tech normal filter is 10k miles. Oil rated for 20k. If I know I'll be going longer, I just upgrade my oil filter to 15k.

Cx do burn oil so 8k the would add up, best to half to 1 qt if you pushing to 9-12k.

Traveling nurse, so I might drive cross country. I don't trust bringing my car to any shop. I rather bring car home after contact and work on it.
I understand where you're coming from. Besides getting samples analyzed, have you tried cutting open your used filters? 🙂
 
I understand where you're coming from. Besides getting samples analyzed, have you tried cutting open your used filters? 🙂
Naw, not worth my trouble. If there was things that concerning, it would be in the oil sample I sent already 2x. The ST sample was done after my Castrol GTX UItra Clean 0W/20.

My cx 9 was used and I think the lady drove it 24k without ever doing an oil change... I took a gamble on it. Moto Medic 5 min flush, Filed with Auto RX. I drove it 2k miles, then flushed it with liqui moly.

The flush it with liquid moly again at 90k.

I do send scope down engine to look, looks clean and all.
 
Naw, not worth my trouble. If there was things that concerning, it would be in the oil sample I sent already 2x. The ST sample was done after my Castrol GTX UItra Clean 0W/20.

My cx 9 was used and I think the lady drove it 24k without ever doing an oil change... I took a gamble on it. Moto Medic 5 min flush, Filed with Auto RX. I drove it 2k miles, then flushed it with liqui moly.

The flush it with liquid moly again at 90k.

I do send scope down engine to look, looks clean and all.
If you got it at 24k and it never had an oil change, it seems you have done well to get to 90k without issues.
 
I'm wondering what the general consensus it on the brand of oil for the 2nd gen CX-9. Some swear on Mobil 1 and some stay with Castol Edge as the "dealer's recommendation". Any noticeable difference in MPG and/or engine NVH when switching between brands? Catrol Edge alone has the black and gold bottles.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is currently the best choice. Regulations exist that allow the 'synthetic' word to be used on labels when the oil really isn't synthetic. Rather, manufacturers are able to purify natural oil to meet the regulatory specifications and use 'synthetic' on their label.

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is truly synthesized from a liquid natural gas starting material (not natural poly alpha olefin stock) and is a high-performance racing oil, unlike the Mobil 1, Castrol, products etc. It’s wise to research the subject carefully when choosing.
 
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is currently the best choice. Regulations exist that allow the 'synthetic' word to be used on labels when the oil really isn't synthetic. Rather, manufacturers are able to purify natural oil to meet the regulatory specifications and use 'synthetic' on their label.

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is truly synthesized from a liquid natural gas starting material (not natural poly alpha olefin stock) and is a high-performance racing oil, unlike the Mobil 1, Castrol, products etc. It’s wise to research the subject carefully when choosing.
My cx 5 was only on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for a while. When I switched it to mix of another brands. The inside got darker for sure. Might be age of car, might be switch. They screwed me on my rebate, so I'm being petty. Not going to use them again 😂
 
I am strongly convinced that there is little to no noticeable difference between many oil brands.
Well… yeah. 99% of them are using the same base oils, and the API and other standards dictate what goes into the add pack (maybe not directly, but with a given additive’s effect on performance being what it is, there are only so many recipes a manufacturer can follow that give the desired result).
 
I am strongly convinced that there is little to no noticeable difference between many oil brands.

I am content overall with how PUP performed here, but it got beat in oil temp, torque, wear metals, and turbo deposit tests by Liquimoly. The torque and oil temp tests also reveal it will get better gas mileage. But PUP is cheaper and has better shear and oxidation stability. So the LM is the better performer as long as you avoid long drain intervals. And it's going to cost you more as well. My only other concern is the LM has half the magnesium compared to PUP, so it may not clean the engine as well.
 
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I am content overall with how PUP performed here, but it got beat in oil temp, torque, wear metals, and turbo deposits by Liquimoly. The torque and oil temp tests also reveal it will get better gas mileage. But PUP is cheaper and has better shear and oxidation stability. So the LM is the better performer but only if you avoid long drain intervals. And it's going to cost you more as well.

After sleeping on this, I think the reason Liquimoly was putting up higher efficiency numbers was due to the increased amount of shearing it saw compared to the others. I would like to see what the viscosities ended up being at the time of the dyno. If I'm right, I would say it's not the better oil.
For 99.9% of the motoring community, it really doesn't make any difference what brand of oil is used as long as it meets Mazda specs. This is a lot to do about nothing IMHO.
 
For 99.9% of the motoring community, it really doesn't make any difference what brand of oil is used as long as it meets Mazda specs.
I don't believe there are any "Mazda specs" unlike Ford/GM/Mercedes/Acura and some others, only to use the latest API/ILSAC spec for direct-injected internal combustion engines (sadly their manuals are still behind the times with mentions of GF-5 which you should avoid due to not having the latest formulation including reduced calcium to prevent LSPI). So stick with the latest spec which keeps oil performance between brands fairly tight. I'm glad we have these standards. But there are still differences.

Like I noted, one of the oils here was putting out a little more power and was seeing lower oil temperatures, which indicates less drag, which will also cause lower fuel consumption since those are all related. It may also run quieter as a result. That is meaningful to some. But the percentage is small and you'd have to weigh the cost difference. At the time of writing I'm seeing Molygen at $52 for 5 liters (5.28 qt) vs the Pennzoil at $28-30. The only nice thing here is that the jug is actually enough for one full oil change instead of being slightly short for the Mazda 2.5T, causing you to dip into the next jug to complete your fill.
 
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