OMG! Tier 2 Tune 280 HP 360 lb ft torque at the Wheel! Hold On!

Here is MazdaEdit calculated street dyno today with Tire 2 and No revisions.

I'll send in the log file and get a revised tune in a week or so and see how it compares.

IF we assume a 20% HP loss through the drivetrain:
FWHP 365 and a gain of 81 % gain over stock on premium fuel
FW Torque 488.75 and a gain of 100 % over stock turbo on premium fuel

At this point, my focus on the remaining revised tunes is to improve drivability. Since I paid for reduced throttle response as a DD we will work on smoothing this out. The present tune behaves very nicely in stop and go traffic, merging and in parking lots.

FE seems equal or better than T1. T1 gets up to 33 MPG highway. It's easy to get 25 to 26 MPG in town.

This car is definitely a SLEEPER. Still a fun sport SUV. It's making about 0.099 HP/ pound curb weight. Not in Hotrod territory. A stock, Dodge NA 6.4L makes .114 HP/ pound curb weight and gets 23 MPG highway.

Okay, let's look at some of the Hot SUVs that a Tuned CX 5 T should handle with ease...

Porsche Macan, 434 HP, Curb Weight 4451# or 0.096 HP/#
BMW X3 M50, 393 HP, 4334 # or 0.087 HP/#
Mini Countryman JCW, 312 HP, 3635 to 3743 curb weight or 0.087 to 0.084


Screenshot 2025-12-04 144753.webp
 
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What parameters (drag coefficient, frontal area, gear ratios, etc) are you using?
Well, I didn't change these parameters. I used Mazda 3 parameters. I know my CX 5 is much less aerodynamic. I used the Mazda 3 gear ratios as well.

I used 3860 curb weight +200 pounds for driver, car seats, tools and such. I had just filled up with fuel and had less than 10 miles since fill up.

So with more drag from aero and front area, my HP and Torque are skewed. If I changed these values the power would be higher. And not by a whole lot. Aero comes into play from about 50 mph and up. I believe my top speed was 58 mph....

AND this is an estimate. We always say dynos LIE but the track DON'T. At this point, I'm not willing to take this car to a drag strip.

An idea test would be to make a pass on a drag strip, Stock, T1 and T2. Over in the domestic world we just that and post it...

I'm looking forward another early adopter to load Tier 2 in the CX 5 T and give us another data point......
 
I plugged the engine displacement, rpm, boost into a HP Torque calculator as a check.

This is a good check for the "dyno" graph! It is nice to have at least a 2nd or more check on all HP/Torque numbers. It assures us that it is indeed possible that 2.5l engine at 4200 rpm, 32 PSI boost can make these numbers!

HP Cal for Boost.webp
 
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Damn dude, it is time for an upgraded intercooler!
If we were racing we would upgrade the intercooler and other items.

This is my wife's grocery getter. It's gas PLENTY of pep for her. I was a bit on edge driving tonight on wet roads. That was until I put my foot in it with no traffic around, I overpowered traction control. It handled predictably.

When you get T2, I hope you upgrade your intercooler and a few other items to get the full potential of your 2.5T!

AND what would it it be like if the wastegate didn't start opening and we ran it up to 6000 or 7000 RPM!

There is SO MUCH more potential for this engine. It already has forged crankshaft and rods.

Anyway, I'm happy with our BMW and Porsche killer! :p
 
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Sorry to revive a thread but wanted to know what mods you had on your cx-5? Is it just the tune and forged wheels? I thought T2 needed CAI and Catback minimum mods?
 
Since this is mostly my wife's car, I didnt modify the exhaust.

I tested a cai, it HURTS partial throttle at low rpm. I could see the FE drop compared to an OEM filter. We don't operated at WOT, where a cai helps.

Instead I made a simple side air entry into the oem air filter box with a backflow damper. My tests show the air box is starving the engine for air at high rpm and boost. But at light load,where we operate 95% of the time it stays closed and FE does not suffer. I posted this mod..

Also the filters on CAI do a poor job filtering. I could write a page on this. The oem filter with the above mod is the best of both worlds.

I'm loving T2. Excellent FE when operated consciously. Excellent throttle response and low end power right where it can be used. Power is significantly greater than stock and T1 ecu calibrations. I could do some 0 to 60 logs but I'm not willing to flog the car. My finely tuned butt dyno knows. 😂

So far only taken short trips, about an hour long on 2 lane state highways and secondary then gravel roads. LOM said 30 mpg. Around town LOM 21 to 29 mpg depending on how long a drive to allow the drive train to warm up and traffic.

When checking FE, hand Calculated vs LOM when filling up, the LOM was 2 mpg lower than hand calc.

T2 FE seems to be better than T1. T1 has better FE than the stock ecu tune.

We are waiting for our 3rd revision, part of the T2 package.

This is not for those expecting a stock engine that delivers power. The driver has be aware this car is now entering high performance territory. Sport setting is a very sporty drive! This driver has to drive consciously or I'm speeding. CC is my friend. Lol
 
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Hmmm...may have to upgrade to T2. Mind posting a link or write up on how to do that airbox mod? I really don't want my car to sound like a rice car, but I really want to get a T2 upgrade. It sounds like you've gotten about as much power as I want without having to do any intake/exhaust upgrades. That would be ideal...I am jealous of the newer tips...the tips on the 2021 signature are so tiny...
 
Since this is mostly my wife's car, I didnt modify the exhaust.

I tested a cai, it HURTS partial throttle at low rpm. I could see the FE drop compared to an OEM filter. We don't operated at WOT, where a cai helps.

Instead I made a simple side air entry into the oem air filter box with a backflow damper. My tests show the air box is starving the engine for air at high rpm and boost. But at light load,where we operate 95% of the time it stays closed and FE does not suffer. I posted this mod..

Also the filters on CAI do a poor job filtering. I could write a page on this. The oem filter with the above mod is the best of both worlds.

I'm loving T2. Excellent FE when operated consciously. Excellent throttle response and low end power right where it can be used. Power is significantly greater than stock and T1 ecu calibrations. I could do some 0 to 60 logs but I'm not willing to flog the car. My finely tuned butt dyno knows. 😂

So far only taken short trips, about an hour long on 2 lane state highways and secondary then gravel roads. LOM said 30 mpg. Around town LOM 21 to 29 mpg depending on how long a drive to allow the drive train to warm up and traffic.

When checking FE, hand Calculated vs LOM when filling up, the LOM was 2 mpg lower than hand calc.

T2 FE seems to be better than T1. T1 has better FE than the stock ecu tune.

We are waiting for our 3rd revision, part of the T2 package.

This is not for those expecting a stock engine that delivers power. The driver has be aware this car is now entering high performance territory. Sport setting is a very sporty drive! This driver has to drive consciously or I'm speeding. CC is my friend. Lol
If you don't mind, could you, please, make a legend with all these acronyms? Other than ASAP and CAI ( I assume is cold air intake) I have no freakin clue what are you talking about. I hate acronyms!🤣
 
If you don't mind, could you, please, make a legend with all these acronyms? Other than ASAP and CAI ( I assume is cold air intake) I have no freakin clue what are you talking about. I hate acronyms!🤣
I did this ASAP🤣

LOM lie o meter, fuel mpg meter, hand calc only real way to know true FE. FE, see below.🤭
WOT, wide open throttle
FE, fuel efficiency
T1, tune series called T1 by the tuner
T2, same deal
CAI cold air intake
 
Hmmm...may have to upgrade to T2. Mind posting a link or write up on how to do that airbox mod? I really don't want my car to sound like a rice car, but I really want to get a T2 upgrade. It sounds like you've gotten about as much power as I want without having to do any intake/exhaust upgrades. That would be ideal...I am jealous of the newer tips...the tips on the 2021 signature

Jump to thread 24 if you want to skip the development work and a TV, turning vane I added and got rid of the corrugated intake hose for a smooth bore hose....

Read all of the thread, I discuss the "CAI" they sell is really a Hot Air Intake with poor filtration.

Exhaust they sell is mostly noise if you like that ricer noise. At WTO it may help some. At partial throttle, probably not measurable.

I wouldn't touch the exhaust. This car relies on the engine knock sensors to protect the engine. A knock sensor is calibrated to the engine and exhaust frequencies by Mazda. Change the exhaust and change the knock frequencies.

Mazda and the tuner rely on the knock sensors to protect the engine. On Domestic cars, we tune so the knock sensors kick on in the event of a part failure or poor tank of gas. We back off the engine timing map below where knock sensors see detonation. The Mazda piston is a power metal design. It won't take as much detonation as a high performance forged piston we put in our domestic engine.

For this reason I plan to keep my exhaust stock.


2024 CX-5 Turbo Air Filter Box Test - Yikes
 
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NVM...I saw another post you made regarding the TV mod. In it you mentioned HPS 2.5 to 3.25 elbow. Looking into that now.
Yeah! You will need to cut some of the hose to make it fit. Hacksaw works.

Great to do these mod before getting T2 tune. Then new tune will reflect these upgrades!!

T2 WILL impress you...wee!!🤸
 
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