2014 CX-5 Transmission Dipstick stuck

weitau

Member
:
Current '14 CX-5 GT, previous Miata 2xNA, NC & Mazda 5
I removed the aircleaner and had full access to the transmission dipstick. Not only was the 10mm lock screw rusted and hard to remove, the dipstick would not budge.
Worried that it would break if I tugged on it too hard, I jiggled the dipstick back and forth until it could be turned, but it was near impossible to lift it.

I'm afraid that the transmission has never been serviced, and that the rubber O-rings on the dipstick are now no longer pliable enough to be squeezed and removed.

Has anyone else seen this problem? Did anyone experience broken dipsticks?
 
if you are worried buy a spare one and try to remove this one even if it brakes. Likely the oring is stuck. ..Or use some lube around it and slide something (like plastic stick that are used for removing covers) sideways to the oring and push/lift.
If it rotates it shouldnt be hard to eventually remove it.
Yes most likely never removed and not serviced.
 
They are cheap, I ruined the seal on mine trying to jam it back in crooked while tightening the bolt. Bought a new one for $7. Try squirting a lube in there, let in soak, then try rotating as you pull it out. Probably got some dirt in there preventing the seal from braking free.
 
Thanks for the feedback! I was afraid the thing would break in half, then half the plastic would end up in the tranny. I could try PB Blaster and try again using a pry tool. It seems like buying a new dipstick would be a good idea.
 
At 160k miles, doing a transmission drain and fill could be risky. If the fluid is black, it might be best to leave it alone since it's shifting fine right now.
 
FZ0119AA0.jpg
Dipstick PN: FZ0119AA0


mon-07-02-2022-2105-1-800x800.webp



 
so looking at the stick it seems the oring goes into the hole. I always thought its gasket that sits on top of the hole. Thay may be tricky , its likely swollen too and stuck.
If you still decide to try - Have to pry from at least two sides (as close to the oring as possible and not from the top handle ) to minimize the pressure point. And dont use metal for prying.
 
Thanks for the pictures! I'm looking at where the arrows are and I'm dismayed there is a gap and not solid plastic there. If I used a pry tool, it could break the plastic. On my 20 year old Volvo, plastic engine parts explode when you touch them. Mazdas should be better though.
 

Attachments

  • transmission cap.jpg
    transmission cap.jpg
    10 KB · Views: 28
It's a tight fit to begin with, just needs a little TLC. It'll come out, just wiggle.
 
Stuff like this makes me wonder if I should just leave things alone before I get into more trouble:

2020 Mazda 6 dipstick broke
Sadly almost everything is cheap plastic nowadays. Not much choice. Most Cars we drive today wont be there in 20years and likely there wont be spare parts for some.

The option with dropping then pan may be better for your use case.
 
I don't know what access looks like, but if I were going to apply force, I do from one of these places. Not in the gaps just above the O-ring.

The part looks injection molded. Liquified plastic gets shaped by a mold and then cools and hardens. If the area pointed out above were solid plastic, it would cool slower than the rest of the part and deform the shape as other areas become rigid and it is still hot and flexible.

1718904348426.png
 

New Posts

Back