What have you done to your P5 today?

[Diamond_Dave]

Here's a strange one. I did the front brakes tonight on my MSP. Finally got a chance to try the G-Loc brand pads. I'm using their performance street compound GS-1 (p/n GLCGP755-GS-1). The front discs are stock and I just had them turned and they are well within spec. The pads fit fine. I'm using the anti-rattle clips and springs properly. I compressed the pistons with a C-clamp vice grip.

HOWEVER - Now it seems the brakes are on all the time and squeaking crazy loud. I'll look at the brake fluid level tomorrow and re-check the bracket bolt torque, but has anyone experienced this and have thoughts on a solution?

UPDATE: I just pulled out some fluid so that the reservoir is slightly below "max" and the pads still scrapes due to constant contact

 

[pcb]

The pads fit fine. I'm using the anti-rattle clips and springs properly. I compressed the pistons with a C-clamp vice grip.
.., but has anyone experienced this and have thoughts on a solution?

My caliper piston boot had a tear in it and the piston rusted so the piston got seized in the bore when I pushed it in.
Did your pistons push all the way in smoothly or did it take more force for the last bit?

You may just need to "seat" the pads.
Maybe take your car for a spin and hammer the brakes hard a bunch of times and see if that helps.

 

[Diamond_Dave]

My caliper piston boot had a tear in it and the piston rusted so the piston got seized in the bore when I pushed it in.
Did your pistons push all the way in smoothly or did it take more force for the last bit?

You may just need to "seat" the pads.
Maybe take your car for a spin and hammer the brakes hard a bunch of times and see if that helps.

Bummer. It's a low mileage PACNW car, so no rust or torn boots. Piston compressed easily. Took it for a few drives and it's like the brakes are on the entire time - SOOO LOUD. I'll have to revisit.

 

[INYOURCHAIR]

Bummer. It's a low mileage PACNW car, so no rust or torn boots. Piston compressed easily. Took it for a few drives and it's like the brakes are on the entire time - SOOO LOUD. I'll have to revisit.

How about the brake lines, Seems like I remember hearing that they can collapse internally and act like a check valve and cause this.

 

[INYOURCHAIR]

Finally after a year of just dealing with it, I got the windshield replaced. The prev owners must have never changed the wipers and made the wipe path look like they used sandpaper for blades. it also had two cracks spanning from left to right and top to bottom on the rh side. Going to be nice heading to work tomorrow and being to see the road better when cars approach me.

 

[pcb]

Watching that video, I have two comments - 1) I can't see a valid reason to remove the caliper from the hub. I didn't do it on mine and it doesn't allow you any more room to work.

I didn't do it on mine either.
I had to lift the knuckle up so far that the car lifted off the T-Stand on that side.
Then you crawl under your car with the car precariously perched above you.

Removing the brake caliper wouldn't give us more room to work, but it gives the LCA enough room to raise up horizontal without hitting anything while the car is still resting on the T-Stands.

 

[Diamond_Dave]

Ok, these GLOC brake pads are not working out and I'm tired of jacking up the car, removing the wheel and inspecting/changing something only for the pads to continue to squeak like the brakes are onthe entire time.

What is a street performance pad you guys like?

 

[anywereiroam]

For the past couple months was thinking bout, switching over to an AWD car and getting rid of my p5. Decided to keep it after giving me 6 good years and 11 years of being in the protege game. That and my parents first ever new car was an 2002 dx. Started off by doing much needed maintenance and replacing struts all around, new tie rods, control and brakes. No endlinks as I want to install my front and rear racing beat sway bars.

 

[Diamond_Dave]

Ok, these GLOC brake pads are not working out and I'm tired of jacking up the car, removing the wheel and inspecting/changing something only for the pads to continue to squeak like the brakes are onthe entire time.

What is a street performance pad you guys like?

Oh mea culpa! I finally found the issue. It was the installer of the brake pads (me). Somehow, i bent the dust shield enough that it was clamped to the disc. I finally diagnosed it AFTER buying a replacement disc/pad package (that was actually for a P5, not an MSP). I discovered it because the sound was constant and didn't change with increased brake pressure. Sigh. Car stops great now.

In other news, my streak of Protege has come to an end with our 3rd child. She wasn't interested in manual transmission driving or Proteges. She was warming up to a Mazda6 when I came across another smoking auction deal on a C320 coupe. The cul de sac is looking pretty crowded.

Protege5
03.5 MSP
Mercedes GL320
Mercedes C320
2017 Passat
91 SR20 BRG Miata

 

[Diamond_Dave]

For the past couple months was thinking bout, switching over to an AWD car and getting rid of my p5. Decided to keep it after giving me 6 good years and 11 years of being in the protege game.

You should celebrate by getting a Quaife LSD and make that p5 scream!

 

[Meck]

Yesterday I replaced the Purge Solenoid valve that I broke Wednesday while replacing the torn Air Hose.

On an unrelated note, does anyone have any tricks to keep the headlight electrical connectors from backing off of the headlights?

 

[Diamond_Dave]

On an unrelated note, does anyone have any tricks to keep the headlight electrical connectors from backing off of the headlights?

It's a loose or compromised harness plug. Replacing the plug might be easiest unless you know your way around electrical wiring. If that's the case, then remove the plugs from the harness connector and replace the plugs before re-inserting into the connector.

 

[pcb]

It's a loose or compromised harness plug. Replacing the plug might be easiest unless you know your way around electrical wiring. If that's the case, then remove the plugs from the harness connector and replace the plugs before re-inserting into the connector.

^^^ What he said,..

Maybe all you need is a new pair of these adaptors if it's your low beam that is slipping off.

Dielectric grease really helps to keep the adapter from burning up and getting crispy.
It helps to get more life out of your bulbs too.
Burning out the low beam bulbs is a common problem with the P5.

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

what is this?

 

[pcb]

what is this?
View attachment 313747

It's a blank for making your own motor mount inserts.
I've got a similar blank,..

I went with 88 durometer. Lol

 

[reut1]

away it went . Sad it is gone but I am glad to have more room in the driveway again. I opened one last beer on the liftgate before it went up on the truck.

I have a few items still which ill list in the classifieds soon. Thule roof rack fit kit, intermittent wiper stalk, and Dave B gauge ring clones. If anyone wants any of it let me know and ill get all of the proper photos up or sent to you directly.

 

[katapaltes]

The clicking occurs equally on both sides. I may be overdue for some new strut mounts as I only replaced the struts themselves several years back and not the entire strut assembly. I replaced the end links recently, so I'll recheck the torque on them next.

Amazon has the KYB rear right strut mount for sale for only $12, so I ordered one to troubleshoot my clunks on that corner. The other ones (rear left and fronts) seem to be regular price, and I'll order them if this one helps. https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned)

Rock Auto lists this part (KYB SM5457) as only being compatible with the sedan. I don't know if that's a fitment or firmness issue or if they're just wrong. Amazon seems to think the KYB part will fit a P5, forum member @Inside posted that he ordered this part number, [EDIT: The one review for the part on Amazon was from a successful installation on a P5], and Rock Auto's page for KYB SM5457 (the one that *doesn't* show compatibility with the P5) lists "BJ3D28380" as the OEM/alternate part number... which is the part number for the actual P5 rear right mount per the parts catalog.

Anyone else used KYB strut mounts in a P5, and if so, did it work out? I replaced the original struts with KYB ones about six years ago.

 

[BenjiHoggi]

away it went . Sad it is gone but I am glad to have more room in the driveway again. I opened one last beer on the liftgate before it went up on the truck.

I have a few items still which ill list in the classifieds soon. Thule roof rack fit kit, intermittent wiper stalk, and Dave B gauge ring clones. If anyone wants any of it let me know and ill get all of the proper photos up or sent to you directly.

Awww sad to see another one go

The TWM shifter is happily living on in my P5 though - I'm really enjoying it! Many miles more to go. Bought a heavy stainless steel ball for it and I did actually end up using the 3" extension. It's great. I'll have to post some pictures when I clean the interior eventually.

Did you happen to send it away at exactly 260,001 miles?

 

[reut1]

Awww sad to see another one go

The TWM shifter is happily living on in my P5 though - I'm really enjoying it! Many miles more to go. Bought a heavy stainless steel ball for it and I did actually end up using the 3" extension. It's great. I'll have to post some pictures when I clean the interior eventually.

Did you happen to send it away at exactly 260,001 miles?

I think it was sent away at 262xxx. I wanted to double check but the battery was completely flat and even throwing my jumper pack on it would not let me turn the key and see the current mileage.

 

[323]

Amazon has the KYB rear right strut mount for sale for only $12, so I ordered one to troubleshoot my clunks on that corner. The other ones (rear left and fronts) seem to be regular price, and I'll order them if this one helps. https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned)

Rock Auto lists this part (KYB SM5457) as only being compatible with the sedan. I don't know if that's a fitment or firmness issue or if they're just wrong. Amazon seems to think the KYB part will fit a P5, forum member @Inside posted that he ordered this part number, and Rock Auto's page for KYB SM5457 (the one that *doesn't* show compatibility with the P5) lists "BJ3D28380" as the OEM/alternate part number... which is the part number for the actual P5 rear right mount per the parts catalog.

Anyone else used KYB strut mounts in a P5, and if so, did it work out? I replaced the original struts with KYB ones about six years ago.

though it's prolly most likely compatible with each other, i want to say the p5 strut shaft is a bit longer for reasons i don't remember. getting old + lack of sleep = blurry memory.

edit: come to think about it, it should have extra threading to accomodate mounting the seat belt onto the top of the strut.