2008 CX-9 Brake Rotor replacement

Yeah, my rubber mallet has been fine for other vehicle brake jobs, this was ridiculous. A couple of decent "taps" with the my large Sledge and it broke loose.
 
Having limited experience replacing brakes and rotors on vehicles, I'm wondering...

With the issue that some of you have experienced with rusted-on rotors, would it be worth applying anything to the back side of the rotor when installing the new replacements? Perhaps a film of Anti-seize compound.....or would that not be a recommended practice?
 
Hi everyone!

I've literally just received delivery of a full set of Posiquiet ceramic pads and the Centric grooved/x-drilled rotors. Just waiting for the G2 red calliper paint to arrive (I know, I know) and stumbled across this thread. 3xv, is there any chance you could PM me your guide please? I've done rotor changes before but I would love to familiarize myself with the CX-9 specifics before I get stuck in over the Easter weekend!

Appreciate it!
 
I have replaced all 4 rotors and pads, but now the front pads squeal really bad...Any tips on how to make it quit? I also replaced pads on my sienna and they squeal too...Any ideas?
 
I have replaced all 4 rotors and pads, but now the front pads squeal really bad...Any tips on how to make it quit? I also replaced pads on my sienna and they squeal too...Any ideas?
That is probably because you chose "metalic" ones. They brake stronger but squeal.
Next time, you might choose "semi-metalic" to get some trade-off.
 
I have replaced all 4 rotors and pads, but now the front pads squeal really bad...Any tips on how to make it quit? I also replaced pads on my sienna and they squeal too...Any ideas?

Did you do the replacement yourself? If so, did you apply the brake pad 'grease'/anti-squeal lubricant to the back side of the pads? That could be the issue too.
 
Just changed rotors and pads this weekend with Hawk pads and the centric rotors from Tire Rack. It probably took me a total of 2 hours. Everything went smooth. I had pulled the screws holding the rotors on a few weeks ago when putting my summer wheels back on, so that part was already done. The 2 bolts holding the calipers and 2 bolts holding the caliper carrier, came out pretty easy. The only thing that stumped me was whether I still needed to use those metal shim things that were on the OEM pads. It looked like the hawk pads came with something already attached so I just left them off. The brake pulsation that I had with the OEM rotors is gone . For those that swapped rotors with the centric, did you compare the weight of the two rotors? I'm wondering if there is any difference. Also what did you do with your old rotors. Those things weight a ton! It seems like the could be recycled as scrap metal instead of chucked in the trash.
 
Completed the front rotor change over, here are some pics
 

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A couple more
 

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and a few more
 

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Just changed rotors and pads this weekend with Hawk pads and the centric rotors from Tire Rack. It probably took me a total of 2 hours. Everything went smooth. I had pulled the screws holding the rotors on a few weeks ago when putting my summer wheels back on, so that part was already done. The 2 bolts holding the calipers and 2 bolts holding the caliper carrier, came out pretty easy. The only thing that stumped me was whether I still needed to use those metal shim things that were on the OEM pads. It looked like the hawk pads came with something already attached so I just left them off. The brake pulsation that I had with the OEM rotors is gone . For those that swapped rotors with the centric, did you compare the weight of the two rotors? I'm wondering if there is any difference. Also what did you do with your old rotors. Those things weight a ton! It seems like the could be recycled as scrap metal instead of chucked in the trash.

I put them on the curb, and none of the junk collectors that drive down my street were interested so i put them in the trash can. I didn't notice any weight diff as they are both heavy like bull.
 
To remove the rotors requires loosening a screw that I cannot get loose. Guess they put some sort of lock-tite in there. Heating it up should loosen, correct?
 
PB Blaster and heat may work. I used an impact screwdriver. There're some other methods previously discussed here as well.
 
I used a plastic mallet loaded with shot and banged the hell out of the rotor to loosen the screws. I only had to drill and easy out one screw.
 
I used PB blaster, a hammer, and a manual impact driver (2 degree movement per mallet strike)
 
My Centric rotors now make a god awful squeel only when backing. They also vibrate now when braking at high speeds. I am going to replace them this weekend with EBC Greenstuff Pads and these rotors from E-Bay: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned) This time I am replacing Front/Rear so I have matching rotors and pads all the way around. I hope it holds up better. I was using the Centric Ceramic Pads on the Front as well.
 
How many miles on your centric rotors? Mine squeak when backing as well, a minor annoyance, but I suspect this is due to me tossing the factory brake hardware kit (shims) because having a double shim makes a cracking noise every time you let off the brakes from a stop and hit the gas.
 
I put about 10000 miles on the centric rotors, new rotors are on and it's driving like a dream again! We'll see how long it lasts, but the new rotors and pads definately have more "bite", but they are also still being broken in. The rear rotors were very easy, just have to make sure the e-brake is not on, so the shoes aren't engaged inside the rotor. The e-brake seems to work better now too, sure I could adjust it, but I wasn't sure exactly how. My wife is glad everyone doesn't stare at her anymore when she backs up at work :)
 
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