new to the turbo world

bdahl2

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2003 mazdaspeed protege
ok so i bought a 03 mazdaspeed protege and its bpv wasnt there so they blocked it off to make it run. i of course didnt realise till after i drove off the lot and it started stallin after boosting. so i parked it ordered an oem bpv and no more stalling but its got an electronic boost controller that i unplugged since a wired broke anyways. but now it lags very bad around 2.5k but takes off around 4k. idk if the boost controller was just t'd in or if there were vacume lines already there and they just replaced the t with the controller? or what i even looking at. can anyone help? i can get pics up of what im talking about. cause i know i suck at spelling and describing things. im hoping i didnt give up my mp3 for a lemon
 
You didn't test drive the car? Sounds like a headache but it shouldnt be hard to fix. Replace your coils, wires and plugs and put fresh oil in the engine and trans for starters.

And post pics asap, complete shot in the dark until you do.
 
i changed plugs havent changed coils but oils new in the engine. and its only when it wants to itll lag big time. but some time it takes off with no problem. and yea i test drove it but ya know how ya get when your excited on something new lol. didnt pay any attention to details and be pacient. but im stuck with it now and i wana fix it. ill take a pick of it when i go outside and ill try to get them up asap.
 
I can't say much, I bought mine after only seeing pictures. My dad was nearer to the seller so I had him test drive it and he didn't even go into boost. Anyway it's a combination of a bad factory tune, inefficient intercooler and plastic pipes that get heatsoaked quickly, and if there are any mechanical problems which there must be. The coils are a weak point and replacing them and the wires will make the car run better.
 
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the blue things the bad boost controller. idk how to eliminate that? and ill get new coils and wires and get some hard tubing. just need money first lol
 
On my boost controller you only use two of the ports and the NC (normally closed) port is left open. The boost solenoid should just have a line from the wastegate coming in and a line going out to the top of the intake manifold. The line going out to the intake mani should have a T on it and the other line that T's in is for the BPV.
My setup is different since I am running a vacuum block but it's the same until then. You can see the line coming from the WGA to the EBC solenoid (which is unfortunately right under the cold pipe in this pic), and up to the vac block. Yours should run to the blue capped nipple in my picture.
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I really need a better pic of more of the lines to figure out what's going on but that's what I can tell from that. I'm curious why the third line off the EBC solenoid is running to a T in the large hose. that looks like the VC vent hose that runs to the intake tube.
I don't think the EBC is plumbed in right and that may be why it doesn't work.
 
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im just trying to eliminate it cause one of the wires is broke anyways. ive got a line coming from the intake to the bpv that has a T in it that goes to the boot controller and from there one line goess to the waste gate and the other goes to the breather. how would i just eliminate it?
 
To lose the EBC solenoid just pull off the vacuum line that runs from the wastegate up to the solenoid, and pull off the line that Ts from the Vac line that runs from the intake manifold and BPV and plug in the line from the wastegate into the T. Eliminate the breather line altogether with a filter like I did and cap the line on the intake, or you can get a new breather line but it just pumps oil directly into your intake.

It's a lot harder to describe than it is to do, it should take a minute if that.
 
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ok so run the waste gate hose to the T for the bpv? and plug the breather hose? i did that and it runs better
 
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