Is this common in AWR endlinks?

 
That is exactly what I thought. Longer collars and a longer bolt for the bolt that goes through the spherical bearing in the eyelet. That should bring it away from the strut and allow it to not make contact any longer. This should fix that part of the problem.

I have however noticed something else. There is a groove warn in on the left and right inside edge of the eyelet hole where the bolt going through there has made contact. This I can only assume is do to contact made when the steering is at full lock. The only thing I can think would fix THAT issue would be a larger bearing and eyelet bolt to allow for more rotation in the socket.

Also, has anyone here ever had an issue with the (not so locking) "locking" nut coming loose all the time before 'seizing' into place against the sleeve?
 
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I also once broke one just like that.
Still missing one endlink. Other one I found in my driveway in the snow this winter.
 
avarela86 said:
Ill ask again...how do you know the bar is in the neutral position?
Click to expand...


When the isn't any preload on it.

I install one endlink and adjusted it to the correct length. Then go to the other side, install that one and adjust it to where the bar is in between going up or down.
 
I measured the length of a stock endlink and extended the adjustable one to that length. On the Ksports though the collar where the end link mount onto is adjustable so you measure the mount on a stock strut and make sure that the one on the Ksport is at a similar distance.

My struts were leaking so i bought some replacements along with one more set of replacement rods. I'm thinking because my struts were leaking it may have been overworking the rest of the setup. Any comments on this?
 
i'm not sure these help at all....all i know is the only problem i ever had was with the silly o rings???
 

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I am about to install my front AWR endlinks but I am affraid that this same thing will happen to me if I have any of the end bolts out of the center body. So I wanted to try installing them with the end bolts all the way tightened. That makes about an inch shorter difference from the stock endlinks. Would that be a bad thing???
 
When I did that I ended up shearing my endlinks. The threads just basically tore apart because the sway bar couldn't travel very far. The first time I set them up I preloaded them. I adjusted them some time later because they were making a lot of noise. I basically reduced their length and that started my series of problems. Mind you it didn't start till a bit later but that's the only thing I can attribute to them shearing. I think you're better off preloading them.
 
AzteCypher said:
When I did that I ended up shearing my endlinks. The threads just basically tore apart because the sway bar couldn't travel very far. The first time I set them up I preloaded them. I adjusted them some time later because they were making a lot of noise. I basically reduced their length and that started my series of problems. Mind you it didn't start till a bit later but that's the only thing I can attribute to them shearing. I think you're better off preloading them.
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So should I set them close to stock length as possible? What do you meen by preloading them?
 
That's about how far mine are setup so far. Make sure that when you turn the wheel it doesn't stretch the endlinks. That's how I broke them the first time. As soon as I set mine up I'll post up a pick.
 
AzteCypher said:
That's about how far mine are setup so far. Make sure that when you turn the wheel it doesn't stretch the endlinks. That's how I broke them the first time. As soon as I set mine up I'll post up a pick.
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Cool that would be great. I did a bit of driving on them yesterday and today and no problems yet.
 
Alright for anyone that cares, I apologize for taking long in posting these pics. I've been driving on the endlinks for almost 4 weeks now and no breakage. They creak and clunk but that's the "normal" sounds. I'm working on using poly bushings but I'm afraid that might make the endlinks too stiff to rotate which may cause them to break again but we'll see.

The first 3 pics are driver side and the last 2 are passenger side. I took a measuring tape so you could see the length they're at now. I feel that there might be too much of the threads exposed meaning that it "might" have a tendency to bend at that point because it doesn't have the support of the main shaft. Mind you I could be wrong but it's just an observation I made. Let me know about your thoughts, compliments, complaints, etc. Thanks for the input!
 

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AzteCypher said:
Alright for anyone that cares, I apologize for taking long in posting these pics. I've been driving on the endlinks for almost 4 weeks now and no breakage. They creak and clunk but that's the "normal" sounds. I'm working on using poly bushings but I'm afraid that might make the endlinks too stiff to rotate which may cause them to break again but we'll see.

The first 3 pics are driver side and the last 2 are passenger side. I took a measuring tape so you could see the length they're at now. I feel that there might be too much of the threads exposed meaning that it "might" have a tendency to bend at that point because it doesn't have the support of the main shaft. Mind you I could be wrong but it's just an observation I made. Let me know about your thoughts, compliments, complaints, etc. Thanks for the input!
Click to expand...

thanks for the detailed pics aztecypher. This will help me when I got to install my awrs on my ksports. I already broke a set, don't want that to happen again.
quick question, how far down is your endlink tab on your ksports. I don't have the coilover wrenches so I haven't been able to move the endlink tab. Should it be as far down has possible?
 
Place it all the way down. Loosen the two screws with a really good allen wrench in order to bring it down. By good I mean Craftsman or Husky. I stripped 3 allen wrenches that friends of mine had until I bought me a good set. I believe it was a 5mm or a 5.5mm.

If you don't have the wrenches you can use a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to get them off. Even if you do have the wrenches I recommend you use the hammer and screw driver to make sure the perches are tight.
 

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