FlyinMSP said:How long does it take to do this? Do you have to unbolt everything first?
Pro5Lani said:Yeah, I figured out everything. Only problem was that stopper. I didn't want to take out the whole seat so I've been working on it with the seat still attached to the car. I don't have much room for me to pull out the seat in my garage. I'm just grinding it down. I wasn't able to force the bracket to go over that stopper. I didn't get to finish the job because I got hungry.
Time to eat!
CustomMSP said:This should only take a half hour at most. There are 4 bolts that hold the seat in place...two in the front and two in the back under the plastics that are on the edges of the rails in the front and in the back. Be careful when taking the seat out of the car not to scratch anything. Once the seat is out from the car, flip it over and look towards the front of the base. You'll see the two L shaped brackets...one on each side. If you like you may grind down the little stopper that prevents the brackets from rotating 180degs. If not, you may force the brackets like I did over the stopper and it'll be fine as well. Once the brackets are rotated 180deg, just bolt them back in well making sure they are not loose or have the possibility of becoming loose. Place the seat back in the car and bolt it up as well. Make sure the seat is able to slide back and forth freely and that the base is still adjustable up and down.
CustomMSP said:No problem DiS.
I do have a SS clutch line, but I also have the Spec stage 3 hybrid disk mated to the stock MSP pressure plate. The MSP pressure plate is much stiffer than any clutch I have ever tried. With the Spec disk the clutch travel became much smaller, only a few inches from disengaged to completely engaged. So what I did was lower the engagement point all the way to the floor, and I adjusted the clutch pedal stopper to a lower point as well. Therefore, my clutch only have a few inches of travel, and it grabs very low. This makes for very smooth and quick shifts.