Brake Pad Review - Track, Autox, Street

gar777

Member
:
2003 Protege ES (sold in 2007)
I've seen lots of questions on this so I thought I'd share my experience with 3 pads (stock, Hawk HP+ and Carbotech XP9) in three settings (street, autox and track days).

First, some background: I use the stock tires on the street and Kuhmo Victoracers for autox and track events. I think matching the pads to the tires makes a big difference so that's why I mention. I have an upgraded suspension but basically stock (non-turbo) power. This may also matter since the braking needs are less when your power is less. You just don't go as fast in the same amount of space. Also, i always change rotors with pads. I don't believe in turning rotors or trying to get 2 pad sets per rotor. I run ATE SuperBlue racing brake fluid and have SS brake lines.

Your results may differ but here's what I found:

Street:

stock pad - very good for a stock pad but our tires deserve credit too, they're great in the dry

HP+ - definite improvement over stock, great initial bite but very dusty and very squeaky, these may be reasonable trade offs for the performance and price ($65 or so from Tire Rack). Note: I did not use anti-squeal stuff so maybe that would help.

XP9 - much quieter than HP+, dust slightly less than HP+ and surprisingly good at low temps, even in a Northeast winter (I ran them all last winter as a test). They seemed as good as stock, but the initial bite when cold may be slightly less, though still totally safe (in my opinion). If you stay on the brakes for a few seconds, they heat right up and bite well. On the few occasions when I ran r-compound tires on the street (what fun!), they were awesome after the first few applications of the brakes. A WRX-driving friend drove my car like this and is now very jealous of my brakes.

Autox:

stock pad - very acceptable performance but room for improvement

HP+ - great autox pad, great initial bite, doesn't need to heat up, who cares about the squeaks or dust? they stop well

XP9 - not ideal for autox, although if your runs are consecutive or with 5-10 minutes between each, they will work well for the runs after your first or second run. Last weekend we ran in 2 heats of 4 runs each and they were pretty good by the 3rd and 4th runs each. Since it my 3rd and 4th runs are usually my fastest anyway and I try not to brake too much during autox, they were fine for me. The HP+ perform better, though, and probably the Carbotech Panther Plus compound would work better for autox as well.

Track:

stock pad - fairly decent for a stock pad (with stock tires only, don't try with r-compounds) but will fade after several laps and will need to be replaced after one track day. A month after buying the car, I ran an event at Lime Rock (not a heavy braking track) and they were okay for that one day. Pedal went much closer to the floor on the ride home from the track than on the ride there but they still worked acceptably for the street. I changed them before the next event and tried HP+s.

HP+ - Definite improvement over stock but still faded (though less than stock). Great initial bite but a bit harder to modulate than the XP9. After one track day, they were basically shot, although still ok for street and autox use, but the pedal never felt as firm again (as before the track day). I changed them before next track day. They may be marketed as street/autox/track day pads but they are really only good for street/autox use and maybe one track day on a track without heavy braking.

XP9 - great on the track, no fade, decent wear. Perfect combination with r-compounds. This is not surprising since this is a true track compound brake pad. Good wear but I think I will stop running these on the street due to the high price ($125 / front set) and fact that better street/autox pads exist (maybe the Carbotech Panther Plus). If I had to run one pad for all purposes, though, this would be it. And No, I am not a spokesperson for, sponsored by or in anyway affiliated with Carbotech, although I think they give you a forum discount if you ask.

I'd love to hear what experiences others have had with these pads or others in these settings.
 
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Good review. I found the stock pads very impressive. I then swapped to HPS all around and was pleasantly surprised with how well they held up at Sebring track days. The last time I went to Sebring (last weekend) I ran HP+ in the front and they didn't get heat soaked liked the HPS pads did. HP+ definitely squeak more, which is why I'll put my HPS back in this week.

I think your pedal getting closer to the floor says a lot more about the brake fluid than the pad. I assume you bleed your fluid before and after every track day ("before" due to the moisture ATE sucks up, "after" due to boiling)? I also run ATE SuperBlue / Typ 200 (although I was very impressed with Valvoline Synth DOT3+4!).

I think replacing your rotors with every pad is a little excessive. After 30,000 miles I swapped my stock rotors for Powerslots and other than brake cleaner + sand paper, they've been great ever since, and I change pads rather often (for street versus track).

Also, I disagree that "braking needs are less when your power is less." I would say braking needs are less when the car WEIGHS less (say, NA versus turbo), but just because you have more power on tap and don't use it, the brakes aren't working harder. If I brake at 70 mph it doesn't matter whether I have a turbo or not, but the weight of my car makes a big difference. Just my two cents.
 
I agree with almost everything you said but let me explain some of my earlier statements:

pedal getting closer to floor:
I bleed before every event, after if I have time. One reason I think the pedal goes down over time (esp. after track events) is because the brake pads get thinner as they get used up. Also, for stock or light duty pads, the high heat of track use causes glazing, which may require more pedal effort for the same stopping force.

replacing rotors:
you are right that I could clean and sand the rotors and probably get more life and comparable performance out of them but aggressive pads (like the HP+ and XP9) do not always wear perfectly smoothly, instead they sometimes cause small grooves which are tough to sand out. Rotors are fairly cheap (like $60-100/pair) and my time is limited so, if I am going to commit $120 for new pads, I prefer to use new rotors as well. This assures "like new" performance, although it costs more. Usually, one set of pads/rotors will last me a year or so and provide excellent braking, not too bad for around $200.

braking needs are less when your power is less:
on a given length straightaway, say Lime Rock's front straight of maybe 1/3 mile, a more powerful car will reach a higher speed before the braking zone than a lower-powered car, assuming they enter the straight at the same speed. In my car, with 130 hp, I reach 100-110 mph before braking. If I was driving a MSP, with 170 hp, I would probably reach 120-130 on this same straight. Having to brake from 130 is more taxing on the brakes than from 110.

I agree with everything else you said and thanks for the input.
 
Good Reviews,

I just wanted to add my experience with Carbotech pads. Only street and Autox so far (first track day next weekend):

Bobcats: Descent improvement over stock. Basically no brake dust. Worked great in the winter, but also didn't get any fade at autocrosses. Initial bite was good, but I found myself wanting more grip after that. They did squeal periodically under low force braking.

Panther +: Initial bite is similar to the Bobcats, then as the heat increases in the pad they seem to grip a little more. I'll probably run the Bobcats in the winter since these pads need a little heat in them to be at their best. They dust a lot and squeal fairly often. In almost every way they seem to be identical to the Hawk HP+ I ran on my old car (bite when cold being the only difference).

 
My $0.02.

All for track unless I mention something else.

Stock - fade, fade, fade. 4 laps at best at Fabi at Shannonville. Coincidentally, the stock tires would also give out at the same time. After 2 track days, they were cracked.

KVR Carbon Fibre - Better than stock. No fade. Doesn't bite that hard. But no fade. Can run for over an hour on these. They worked throughout winter as well. There is dusting. Good consistent braking.
Would recommend these over the stock anytime and for those only interested in light track days. Better stopping distance over stock.
Virtually quiet.
A good pad to learn the track on if you're a rookie b/c of the longer stopping distance over the HP+.

Hawk HP+ - Great bite. Lots of noise initially breaking them in. Occasional squealling for street use. No fade. Again can run over an hour with these. LOTS of dusting. Good consistent braking. Recommended for serious track days. The best stopping distance (of the 3 pads). You can brake very, very late with these.
Had to learn to brake earlier as the engine revs didn't drop fast enough to engage the next gear correctly.


I did run all these pads on the same set of OEM rotors.
Brake fluid is Ford DOT3.
ABS is disabled.
I had the same rims and Dunlop FM901 tires throughout.
Did all the fluid and pads changes personally.
 
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finally an intelligent brake conversation. :)

stock (0-37,000 miles) (tires: OEM on street, 205/45/16 V700s autoX, stock suspension):

IMO, mazda brakes are one of the best-kept secrets around. everyone who has driven my car w/ the stock pads has been jealous of the brakes, street or autoX, and no matter what tires i was running. they only fell short under repeated hard braking during a quick run down the blue ridge parkway...started to fade a little.

verdict: great on the street, a little slow to respond (but still strong enough) on the autoX course.

HPS all around (37,000-51,000) (tires: OEM street, 205/50/15 Azenis autoX, w/ MSP suspension):

MUCH better initial bite on course. a little grabby at first on the street until i got used to them, but ideal for autoX. as was mentioned, very dusty and very squeaky, although the squeaking comes and goes. it seems that the harder you use them, the less they squeak. i haven't had the chance to try them out on the BRP. :(

verdict: perfect for autoX if you can live w/ the dust and noise on the street.
 
gar777 said:
the brake pads get thinner as they get used up. Also, for stock or light duty pads, the high heat of track use causes glazing, which may require more pedal effort for the same stopping force.
Very true

gar777 said:
braking needs are less when your power is less:
That's true, I was looking at it as braking needs from the same speed, not the same distance (more power in the same distance == more speed, like you pointed out).

I was and am very impressed with stock Mazda brakes, I think they do a great job. My HP+ pads are seriously dirtying up my rotors, so I'll have lots of cleaning to do when I swap back to HPS this weekend.

Oh, one thing I should mention for someone who hasn't used them yet -- make sure you remove any extraneous tabs on aftermarket brake pads before installing them. I read that HP pads are compatible with the Protege so I installed them, only to gouge a rotor because I didn't rip off an extra tab on the backing plate. The instructions don't mention this (arg!). (actually, I always find it funny that the install instructions on every brake pad I've ever bought say "Install the brake pads" for step 1. Gee thanks for the help!)

Once you rip off the extra tabs on the HPS, they install fine (you can grind it too). My HP+ didn't need any alteration for installation. This is all using stock calipers.
 
I'll throw in my experiences.

Carbotech Panther +
Street:
Very dusty. Wheels were grey with dust after about 3 days after a wash.
Noisy. Early on they would squeal with light application, change pitch with slightly more pressure, and were quiet when braking hard. That went away or I just started ignoring it. When cruising on the street, not using the brakes, they would often squeal continuously, which was very irritating. I think that's what pushed me over the edge and got me to install the loud stereo. ;)
Decent performance. The first stop or two did not have the expected amount of grab and required extra brake pressure. The same is true of stopping after a long distance drive in cool weather.
Not so great life. After about 11000 miles, the front pads had worn down to the rivets, which scored the rotors. Carbotech pads are constructed with rivets that stick out about 1/8" from the backing, which will contact your rotors before the squealer tab does.

Autocross:
Loved them. You have to remember to warm them up with a few hard full stops on the way to the starting line before your first run. Once warm, they will remain good for subsequent runs. Great bite and modulation.

Carbotech Bobcat
Autocross:
Tried these for one event on an identical car. Not nearly as strong a bite as the Panther +. It sort of felt like a stock pad, or the Panther + when cold in terms of brake pressure needed.

Cobalt Friction GT-Sport
I replaced my Panther + with these.
Street:
Noise isn't too bad. Very occasionally they will emit a brief squeal as I'm coming to a stop. So far, no squealing while cruising at constant speed. Dust doesn't seem to be as bad either, although they do generate some dust. It's too early to judge wear, but Cobalt molds the brake lining material into the backing and does not use rivets -- so they won't damage your rotors with no warning. They don't need to warm up to be effective.

Autocross:
Every bit as good as the Panther +, maybe even a little more bite. They don't need to be warmed up.

EBC Green Stuff
Street/autocross:
These were on the car when I bought it. I had them for about 2 weeks before ordering the Panther + pads. In short, they're brake pads. They slow the car down when you press the brake pedal. I really did not like the car's brake balance or braking feel/effort with these pads. The Panther + were a huge improvement.
 
Stock pads - Injen CAI

Street - good stock pads, low dust as they should be
Track - I agree, fade, fade, fade. The pedal was extremely soft after a couple of laps.

Carbotech XP8s

Street - very dusty and lots of squeal (as stated on their website), but still streetable
Track - Very little fade, I'm sure the 90+ degree weather wasn't helping either.

EBC Greenstuff

Not installed yet, but they must be more streetable than the XP8s
 
Hawk HP+/Powerslot front rotors, Stock rear rotors:

Great warm weather street/ any weather track pad. Decent amount of dust (nothing like crap-ass metal masters), decent amount of noise. Initial bite is so-so, but better as ambient temp increase. Not a bad pad for high-speed track use, has worked fine for me on Gingerman and Blackhawk Farms. No fade, and so-so wear. Good times for the price.

Hawk HPS pads/Powerslot front, stock rear rotors:

Stikingly similar to the HP+ at initial application, but heats up very quickly and resists fade well enough to run solo2 events. Good on the street, and ok for chicago winters. By no means is this a Solo1 or IT pad. Rotor wear is less than the HP+, and is a few dollars cheaper. For the budget autocrosser.


For reference,

Solo1 weight is roughly 2550 lbs., while Solo2 weight is about 2620 lbs.

Solo1 is run on 15x8 +42 Kosei K-1 wheels and 225/50/15 Hankook RSS Z211's shaved to 4/32". Solo2 is run on 17x7.5 +35 Buddy Club P-1 II wheels and either Continental Contisports or Azenis RT-215.

Suspension is stock aside from a rear beam bend to 0 toe. Front is run at -1.5 camber and .5 toe out.

Solo1/IT are run with brake cooling ducts. Solo2 is not.
 
another review for the Hawk HPS pads. Definitley recommended for street. noticebale improved bite compared to stock. However, the stock pads were very good as well with less noise and dust. I use the HPS pads for the street and for autocross with blank rotors and they work very well. I liked them so much I'm on my second set now but i think i will try out the HP+ next time cause i keep hearing good things about them except that they're very dusty.
 
hawk hp's resist fade very well and have good braking power, but they are so noisy, i cant stand it anymore

endless- quiet, but they are as dusty as the hp's and dont last very long. only lasted me 6 months and they are expensive
 
Front Brake Pad Sizing Comparison.

1. Hawk HP+ already raced once.

2. KVR Carbon Fibre [this is a brand new set and not the exact ones seen in the other pictures].

3. From L to R, Hawk HP+, KVR Carbon Fibre and OEM.

4. OEM in brown, KVR in black. Height Comparison.

5. As above but for Length Comparison.
 

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6. OEM farther away, Hawk pad closer. Height comparison.

7. OEM on right, Hawk on left for another Height comparison.

8. OEM on top, Hawk on the bottom for Length comparison.

9 & 10. Cracked surface of the OEM pads.
 

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11. KVR further away, Hawk closer.

12. Hawk left, KVR right.
 

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Tabs on HPS pads

FYI, I got a second set of Hawk HPS about a month ago. They have redesigned the part (new p/n on Tire Rack) and this new set only had a warning tab one one of the pads, which I remove as it is a pretty sturdy piece of spring steel that looks like it will really groove a rotor.

registering said:
...One thing I should mention for someone who hasn't used them yet -- make sure you remove any extraneous tabs on aftermarket brake pads before installing them. I read that HP pads are compatible with the Protege so I installed them, only to gouge a rotor because I didn't rip off an extra tab on the backing plate. The instructions don't mention this (arg!). (actually, I always find it funny that the install instructions on every brake pad I've ever bought say "Install the brake pads" for step 1. Gee thanks for the help!)

Once you rip off the extra tabs on the HPS, they install fine (you can grind it too). My HP+ didn't need any alteration for installation. This is all using stock calipers.
 
Another review...

Porterfield R4-S : I ran these pads on my front brakes while attending MazdaFest at Buttonwillow Raceway. They stopped very hard and never faded. The car ran 4 twenty minute sessions (three with me and one with the instructor) two of them being back to back. The instructor was impressed by the consistency and power of the brakes.

Pros :
No noise. They sound no different from my stock pads.
Low dust. They dust more than stock pads but it's manageable.
Good cold bite. They don't take long to 'heat up' either. One stop will do it.
Very streetable.
Seem to be rotor friendly. Only 8k miles on pads so far.

Cons :
100 bucks for the front set.

I've had them on my car since the track day in May, and I like these pads alot. Definetly worth the price and a great pad for a stock car, like mine, that will see track duty. I assume they would work well for auto-x too.

See pic below
 

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I agree that Porterfield makes great pads. I am on my second set of their R4-S pads on my wife's Maxima. The R4-S is the "Street" version of Porterfield's race pad, the R4. The initial bite is awesome and they're easy to modulate. I don't wash my wife's car very much so I think they dust heavily but it's a fair trade off for the improved performance.

I'd like to hear more about how the R4-S worked on the Protege. What tires did you run on the track? How was pad wear? Porterfield suggests the R4-S for street/autox duty and maybe an occasional track day but recommends their full race pad (the R4) for regular track duty. They caution against using the R4 for sustained street use (though driving to/from the track is ok).

To have the best of both worlds, Porterfield suggests using the R4-S for street/autox and then switching to the R4 for the track. They say the R4-S compound is compatible with the R4 so you could swap pads without changing or having to sand down the rotors. In contrast, the Hawk HP+ is a different compound from most other pads (even Hawk's race pad - the Hawk Blue) so you would need to change or sand down the rotor when switching from HP+ to Blues or other pads.

I'm using the Carbotech XP9 now for street/autox/track but when these wear out, I might try the Porterfield R4-S for street/autox and changing to the R4 for track. I could probably do the same thing with the Carbotech Panther Plus and XP9 but I need to confirm whether those compounds are compatible. I'm willing to change pads often but would rather not have to change/sand down rotors every time I change pads.
 
Actually I changed back and forth from the Hawk HP+ to the KVR Carbon ones quite a bit this year without having to sand down the rotors.
 
That's interesting. I met a guy at the track who did the same thing. Although the brake pad manufacturers might say you have to do something, it seems that real world experience shows it isn't that big of a deal.

Do you bed the newly-installed pads in each time after changing?
 
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