Intake Manifold Modifications.....

Ok, I thought at least the 1.8L would be the same, I guess I'll have to keep looking for a 2.0 intake manifold then.
 
Hey, guys... I'm actually writing up a how-to on removing VTCS and porting out the manifold, since I'm taking pictures as I port out Bill Harvey's intake manifold for him.

If you want to take a look at the progress, it'll be here:
http://flatblack.somethingsomething.org/p5/porting/porting.html

And I'll probably have it done by later tonight. I'll compile all the info I can, and if you want to look at the pictures I've taken so far, peek in here:
http://flatblack.somethingsomething.org/p5/porting/

And you'll be able to look at all the .jpg files I have for now. Like I said, I'm taking more as I go, but this'll be a finished peice by tonight, most likely. I'll have the manifold fully finished before Friday, assuming all goes well, and I can spend a couple hours per night on it.
 
Alright, I got mine wrapped up earlier, car definatley pulls stronger up top. I did have to re-raise the boost, it dropped a (1) psi for some reason. I had the battery disconnected during this venture and upon initial start-up the car did run like crap when you tried to rev it up. After about a minute and a half though it cleared up and everything was okay. Any questions?
 
muhahhaa <--- (fake evil laugh)

You haven't gained full potential of this mod......(I thought you were a tech.?)
 
hmmm, well it is probably something with the wds...I did put a vacuum end cap over the valve solenoid by the way. I am curious though...
btw I am supposed to hit up the track thurs, I can't take the suspense tell me!!
 
It's the VTCS... The ECU expects the VTCS in your case (Not in mine! I have a MP3 ECU!), and dumps more fuel when your car peaks 3000 rpm, when the VTCS is supposed to be blocking the airflow and causing tumble, which causes your car to stumble since you don't have those butterflies. You have to let the car warm up, definitly, and let the ECU compensate for the changes you've made.
 
No no, car runs perfectly fine, only upon initial start-up after I was done it acted weird. After that it was fine. I was'nt sure if mazda's were just like honda's (you can just throw a different ecu in there) unlike fords which you have to save pid and security data, etc etc on the wds and then install the new pcm, then transfer the data to the new pcm..or is the mp3 ecu like that?

If indeed it is not, how does the car run when it sees boost, I am not sure if they use some kind of missing link or something along that line for the mp3's when they are turbo'ed.
 
Perfect example of what this board is about... great pics and how to.... you have given something to do this winter.... I have an extra intake manifold sitting in the garage.
 
The MP3 ECU is definitly a plug and play swap... But, but... If you're boosted, DON'T GET ONE! =) Seriously, I can't stress this enough. I'm staying N/A, so I have one, and it advances timing like crazy (To the maximum that I've EVER seen it advanced, in fact), and it leans out the mixture, as well as the fact that it has no information regarding boost, so it'd have to be facilitated by installation of a fuel/timing controller, and so on... Lots of stuff I'm sure you don't want to do. =) So, stick with yours, would be my suggestion, and just keep the solenoid plugged in, and let the car warm up. Hehee.
 
Here is a comparison of the head and intake ports side by side... definitely some discrepancy :)
 

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TurfBurn said:
Here is a comparison of the head and intake ports side by side... definitely some discrepancy :)
I will take pictures tomorrow of my head , when I go to the shop. We did knife edge inside and we ported so that there is no hump left.

Really Sweet!!!!!!
 
Focus said:
I will take pictures tomorrow of my head , when I go to the shop. We did knife edge inside and we ported so that there is no hump left.

Really Sweet!!!!!!
What portion got knife-edged?

BTW.. the pics up top are of both completely unmodified head and IM.
 
TurfBurn said:
What portion got knife-edged?

BTW.. the pics up top are of both completely unmodified head and IM.
I know, I was gonna show what a ported head is like. The walls between runners in the head have been knife-edged.
 
I would actually like to see some pre port and polish dyno #'s and after port and polish dyno numbers...have'nt had the speed dyno'ed yet, maybe in a couple weeks, but tommorow is the track..*woot
 
Focus said:
I know, I was gonna show what a ported head is like. The walls between runners in the head have been knife-edged.
Gotchya... that will be interesting to see... I'm still debating if I'll do mine myself or have someone do it... I need the best I can get... so I lean toward paying the 75-100 to have it done and know that it is done the best it can be. But don't know yet!

Look forward to those pics!
 
Cylinder head porting done the right way is not cheap, I believe it runs about 25 dollars a valve near me. I did not do my cylinder head but I mean if you want it done right it is gonna cost you money. I am saying this in general not directing to anyone.
 
Head porting and mani porting are totally different pricings... my head work is costing me nearly a grand for the valve and port job. But yeah, to get it done right costs a mint.
 
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