Coolant bypass...mod?
- Thread starter BlkZoomZoom
- Start date
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- 2003.5 Titanium Gray MSP #1699
Guess I am going to Home Depot or Discount Auto to look for a 3" section of 5/16 tubing with connectors on both ends (if I read correctly). Since you aren't running the line to the TB anymore, did you shorten the tubing & what did you do with it (don't want a big loop of tubing sitting loose in the engine bay)?BlkZoomZoom said:
Protege_Speed
Member
- :
- 2002.5 ES Auto with MSP Conversion
I found this how to on a rx7 TB and the guy had a Note which I quoted below. Is it safe to assume that we do not have a thermowax rod or soemthing of the sort?
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/throttle_body_coolant.htm
Here is the link
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/throttle_body_coolant.htm
I doubt we have one though, sounds like an old school way of controlling things.This mod will affect the idle. Also, it very cold weather, the TB plate might get stuck. That's the reason for running the coolant thru the TB. Our cars are forced fed hot air so I don't think this lil mod would do anything on a FI car. This is mainly for NA cars.
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- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
03MSPRO- This "mod" (I call it a tweak, not quite a mod) will NOT affect idle quality. On vehicles equipped with a 3 or 4 wire IAC which has coolant flowing through it, it would affect the idle characteristics. That system uses the temp. of the coolant flowing through it to decide how far open the IAC is.
But since our IAC doesn't have coolant going through it and it is only a 2 wire IAC we don't have to worry about it. Our IAC is only a stepper motor which is controlled through the PCM and has nothing to do with coolant through the TB.
Also for you to say this "mod" "does nothing", I would have to disagree. I'm not gonna say my car is gonna run 12's wednesday, but heat transfer is heat transfer... And everybody knows every 10*F cooler your intake air temp. is, you will gain 1% more hp.
Black Majic MSP- I did not cut the tubing down because at some point I may want to re-connect the lines to the TB. I just wire tied everything neatly, it's not like you can really see it anyways.
But since our IAC doesn't have coolant going through it and it is only a 2 wire IAC we don't have to worry about it. Our IAC is only a stepper motor which is controlled through the PCM and has nothing to do with coolant through the TB.
Also for you to say this "mod" "does nothing", I would have to disagree. I'm not gonna say my car is gonna run 12's wednesday, but heat transfer is heat transfer... And everybody knows every 10*F cooler your intake air temp. is, you will gain 1% more hp.
Black Majic MSP- I did not cut the tubing down because at some point I may want to re-connect the lines to the TB. I just wire tied everything neatly, it's not like you can really see it anyways.
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- 2003.5 Titanium Gray MSP #1699
I printed out the attached picture from Page 1 & went out to my car to try to find the coolant lines. I still have no idea where the hell anything is. I'll take a picture of my car & maybe someone can point out what I'm looking for because I'm completely lost. 
Protege_Speed
Member
- :
- 2002.5 ES Auto with MSP Conversion
Okay so it was a long weekend so I figure I would try this mod/tweak. I went to Home Depot and bought a 3/8" brass barb for $1.56. I took the car out afterwards and I did not notice any change in response or any idle difference. I was able to touch the intake manifold. It was still hot but not burning hot. I guess I will give it some more time to test it out. But for those wanting to try this here are my install pics. It was not hard at all.
First pic is the bottom coolant hose on the TB
Second pic is the top coolant hose on the TB
The rest you guys can figure out.
First pic is the bottom coolant hose on the TB
Second pic is the top coolant hose on the TB
The rest you guys can figure out.
Attachments
Why don't you just remove the lines where they connect to the rest of the coolant loop? You can trace one of the lines to the bottom right side of the block. I think it would be easier to put 2 plugs in the area of the engine where there is more room, and you could clear up some space by getting rid of those lines.
I just looked at the coolant lines. One of them is directly on top of the water pump. The other is just below it, and there's easy access to both without taking anything apart, except the stock airbox, which should be removed anyways.
What would it take to plug the two outlets that run from the water pump (or the return line just below) so that coolant never even goes to the throttle body?
What would it take to plug the two outlets that run from the water pump (or the return line just below) so that coolant never even goes to the throttle body?
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- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
iluvmacs- Not sure what type of protege you have but on a MSP it is easier with the coolant hose routing to loop the hoses at the throttlebody.
Nice Pics.....I need a digital camera.
Nice Pics.....I need a digital camera.
so for those that did this, does your car still idle at 700 rpm? how long does it take in the mornings for the idle to be at around 700 rpm?
Like I said before, I did this in my wife's Protege in the past and did not like it. Maybe the MSP is different.
Like I said before, I did this in my wife's Protege in the past and did not like it. Maybe the MSP is different.
