Auxmod (which I have) works well- plug it into the MD/Tape port and run your m/m line to wherever you want (mine's in the center tunnel and comes out the e-brake boot)
I'm at 133K, and have the original... will probably replace it this year.
@Rusty-- '69 Chevelle SS 396 Turbo400, Royal Blue w/white rally stripes on hood & trunk. WANT!!!
I got mine with 114 miles on it off the showroom floor (probably a demo) in March of 2003, and now I have a little over 136,000 miles. All I've had to replace besides the basic stuff are the front wheel bearings.
Still runs great and I still drive it like I stole it.
After doing some more digging, it looks like the clockspring in the steering wheel is shot and needs to be replaced (about $100). Oh, and the seat back :-D
Here's an illustration from the service manual (courtesy of onlinemazdaparts.com)
2003... glad you made it ok :-)
Not the steering wheel, the one in the seat itself. I had just put the key in the ignition, didn't turn it just inserted it and bang
So I'm the P5 sitting in my driveway today about to double check a CEL code.
I had just gotten into the car and put the key in the ignition and the airbag in the driver's seat deployed.
The airbag light has been blinking for a couple of days, mostly when I turn corners.
Has this happened to...
OK, this may sound silly, but check your hoses leading from the solenoid to the throttle body... I had a disconnected hose that was causing my stalling and low RPMs
hbens- You might try posting this in the Protege5 or All Mazdas sections... you might get more ideas there.
FWIW, I'd start with the MAF. Get some MAF cleaner or electronics cleaner and spray it (remove it first), it's easy and cheap. Move on from there.
Good luck (2thumbs)