What have you done to your CX-5 today?

Third oil change.

12-month schedule.

8360 miles on vehicle
4321 miles on oil

Fumoto valve, Mazda Thailand filter, and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. No need to change a crush washer or transfer oil from a pan to a container.

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5.1 quarts



Sample will be sent off to Oil Analyzers tomorrow.
are you using ramps or jack stands?....i run a fumoto as well but i have the brass nipple with a vinyl hose into the drain hole of my drain pan/jug then i dump it back into the 5qt jug it came from...this would save me a step if i have the clearance

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The dipstick image-are you low there?

I find the CX-5 to be a pain to verify level on...
Middle of the dipstick is normal for this car; it is exactly 5.1 quarts as directed.

The level is indeed difficult to read. I find the best readings will come after the car is off for a while, a good hour at least.
 
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The dipstick image-are you low there?

I find the CX-5 to be a pain to verify level on...

Middle of the dipstick is normal for this car; it is exactly 5.1 quarts as directed.

The level is indeed difficult. I find the best readings will come after the car is off for a while, a good hour at least.

have a '25 NA and put in 5qt each oil change...manual calls for 4.8qt...i typically check it cold as well even though the manual says to start it first...if it's between the dots it's good to go
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are you using ramps or jack stands?....i run a fumoto as well but i have the brass nipple with a vinyl hose into the drain hole of my drain pan/jug then i dump it back into the 5qt jug it came from...this would save me a step if i have the clearance
I am using my trusty Rhino Ramps from 2001. I have just enough clearance to squeeze the jug in there for a direct drain. I then put a flashlight against the jug as it has a see-through meter and I can watch it fill up. I drain 1 qt, then stop and fill up my sample bottle, then resume with the 5 qt jug. That's one of the nice things about the valve as well.

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I see when I look at them online now, the design has changed.
 
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I am using my trusty Rhino Ramps from 2001. I have just enough clearance to squeeze the jug in there for a direct drain. I then put a flashlight against the jug as it has a see-through meter and I can watch it fill up. I drain 1 qt, then stop and fill up my sample bottle.

View attachment 345306

I see when I look at them online now, the design has changed.
thanks...i bought the truck version a couple years ago for my wife's suv...they must have a similar height...until then i was using a jack and stands...don't know why i waited this long to get some...

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Benn having a clunking noise from the front end since I got home. Replace the outer tie rod ends (right one was loose) but that wasn't it. I suspected it was the sway bar end links even though they showed no movement no matter how I tugged on them. Ordered some beefy Moog pieces from Rock Auto and installed those today. Problem solved. Took two hours thanks to Mazdas lame method of the fastening of their end links, I was only able to get one nut off. The other three got cut off. Anti-seize put on the new ones to avoid this in the future (plus the Moogs have a square head on the inside of the bar as opposed to the hex head recess Mazda uses to hold the stud).
 
I paid a friend with an auto detailing business to do the full service on my CX-5 I bought just over two months ago. This guy has been doing my vehicles for 30 years, and they do great work. He had a tough time getting it clean though.

My neighbor has had some concrete removed and replaced with brick pavers. So the workers were cutting/jackhammering concrete and cutting bricks with a saw. Between the wind and their gas blower, I ended up with that dust on my car on two different days. I went to the car wash and sprayed it off after the first incident. The second time it sat on my car for days, since I knew they were almost finished and I would have my car cleaned. I guess that cement dust getting on my car, getting moistened at night, and dried in the sun… bonded it to my paint, like a haze on the paint. My car guy said it was hard to remove, more difficult than paint overspray. It’s clean now… my neighbor felt bad about it and went down there and put some money towards my bill. I cleaned my garage out so I could fit both cars in there after mine was cleaned, because those workers still had a little clean-up to do. The moral of this story is… there is regular dust, and there is concrete/brick dust. Don’t get the latter on your car.

So that’s what I did… paid someone to make my car look better than the day I drove it home. Does that count?
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My neighbor has had some concrete removed and replaced with brick pavers. So the workers were cutting/jackhammering concrete and cutting bricks ... I guess that cement dust getting on my car, getting moistened at night, and dried in the sun… bonded it to my paint, like a haze on the paint.

Looks fabulous, there.

Yeah, certain contaminants are awful. Haven't had concrete/cement dust on any of my vehicles, over the years. But, like many, I've had the occasional bird droppings and tree sap "bombs". I keep a few soft microfiber rags and a jug of Maguiar's Quik Detailer in the car for just such incidents. Avian ejecta can certainly do a number on paintwork, if left too long.
 
Right after we got our CX-5 we went to visit our daughter 5 hours away. A couple of bug splatters from the drive etched the clear coat immediately. I tried to clean a big bug splatter when we got to her house but the damage was done. I think it was a locust.
 
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I paid a friend with an auto detailing business to do the full service on my CX-5 I bought just over two months ago. This guy has been doing my vehicles for 30 years, and they do great work. He had a tough time getting it clean though.

My neighbor has had some concrete removed and replaced with brick pavers. So the workers were cutting/jackhammering concrete and cutting bricks with a saw. Between the wind and their gas blower, I ended up with that dust on my car on two different days. I went to the car wash and sprayed it off after the first incident. The second time it sat on my car for days, since I knew they were almost finished and I would have my car cleaned. I guess that cement dust getting on my car, getting moistened at night, and dried in the sun… bonded it to my paint, like a haze on the paint. My car guy said it was hard to remove, more difficult than paint overspray. It’s clean now… my neighbor felt bad about it and went down there and put some money towards my bill. I cleaned my garage out so I could fit both cars in there after mine was cleaned, because those workers still had a little clean-up to do. The moral of this story is… there is regular dust, and there is concrete/brick dust. Don’t get the latter on your car.

So that’s what I did… paid someone to make my car look better than the day I drove it home. Does that count? View attachment 378934
How much should a full detail cost?
 
Right after we got our CX-5 we went to visit our daughter 5 hours away. A couple of bug splatters from the drive etched the clear coat immediately. I tried to clean a big bug splatter when we got to her house but the damage was done. I think it was a locust.

Doesn't surprise me. Which is why I keep a couple of cleaning chemicals and microfiber cloths in the car.

If on the road and I notice a "bomb" on the paint, I want to go after it quickly. 'Cause, as you've seen, you never know what the critter ate and how quickly it will damage things.

Once was in a Mazda Miata on the highway out in the country. Practically the only car on the road, along that stretch. And wouldn't you know it, a big old eagle (perhaps even a condor, as big as it was) spread itself and plopped a big ol' greasy splat! all over the top of the windshield.

Of course I was top-down at the time. (I swear he was aiming for me.) Quickly pulled off to the side and cleaned up things.

Had I been going another 1mph faster, he would have beaned me face first. I'm sure that was the plan.

Microfiber x3. A quick-detailer chemical. A "scrubber" or two. And a small spray bottle of water to wash off the residues after the cleaning. About all one can do.
 
How much should a full detail cost?
A local car detailing chain charges almost $300 to do their full service on an SUV. They do mediocre work, and left swirl marks in the paint of a family member’s car. I wouldn’t go there.

The auto detailing business I use is privately owned by a guy I call a friend. They hand wash the car, then clean the paint, then apply a protectant. He does inside the door jambs and cleans the ethanol residue from inside the gas filler door. He applies a protectant to all the rubber seals along the doors. He cleans the carpet according to the level of dirtiness. They will use Q-Tips to clean every nook and cranny around the dash and console. He doesn’t clean anything under the hood. He does more than I have mentioned here, and you have to leave your car for 4-5 hours. I think he charges most people about $250 for this, which is a much better bang for your buck than the local chain businesses that get you in/out quickly.

People like him (or my landscaper), who I have known for decades, I pay them what their work is worth to me, which is always more than they would charge me. My neighbor had already put $50 towards my bill, and I paid him another $350 since they had such a difficult time getting my car's paint to 100%. He didn’t want to accept that much, but I insisted. He said he would give the extra money to his sons who do the bulk of the work. It’s difficult to find people today who take pride in their work, and are skilled and competent. Under ordinary circumstances, I guess I would've paid $300-$350. I really don’t know what an excellent auto detailing job should cost.
 
I'm new '25 PP owner. Here's the list of accessories that I installed right away. All of them are very nice:

1. OEM splash guards.
2. OEM cargo mat.
3. Redline hood struts.
4. Tuxmats.
5. BOYUER Pedal Covers (Amazon)
6. Amooca Car Cup Coasters (Amazon)
7. X-TKER Dash Storage Organizer (Amazon)
8. ORICARMES Vent Phone Mount (Amazon - my Garmin Nuvi pops right onto the ball on the mount)
9. MAXDOOL Stainless Steel Car Door Lock Latch Covers (Amazon)
10. MUXKENPER Key Fob Cover Case (Amazon)
11. POWOC Backrest Mat seat back protectors (Amazon)
12. AREEYILS Car Center Console Armrest Cover (Amazon)
13. Weathertech bumper lip protector.
14. DROPSTOP seat gap fillers.
 
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