Thinking of getting a CX-5 Turbo, things to look out for?

Good news with used models pre-2021 is that Mazda now has a Customer Service Plan (CSP11) specifically to cover the coolant leak issue (and only the coolant leak issue AFAIK). Coverage extends to 10 years or 120k mi, and you do not have to be the original owner or anything like that. I thought that this was specific to US vehicles only, but according to this thread, CSP11 is applicable to Canada as well (great news for me as a Canadian lol).

This is pretty much the only potential major problem to be aware of, I think. Transmission and diff have very, very few reports of issues, at least here and on Reddit, so regular fluid changes should keep them in good shape. If the car is closer to 90k, you'll probably want to do a coolant service. No real issues with suspension, just replace as needed. In general, these cars are very easy to work on and maintain, just be aware of the need to put the car in maintenance mode to service the rear brakes.
Good to know about the coolant leak warranty!

The turbo trans has more clutches than a NA. The front brakes are larger as well. In theory, these items should last longer than an NA...

Air filter box is the same as NA. Its undersized for a turbo, I learned from testing. I added a varrible flow damper to the oem filter box. It maintains low end torque and opens depending on the load. $70 mod and makes more power. I'll find the link..
 
One problem I have had with my NA 2021 CX-5 is the electronic thermostat. The engine wasn’t coming up to temperature. The dealership dismissed it the first time I complained. They said it was throwing no codes. The problem persisted, so several months later, I complained again and the same dealership found the problem and replaced it under warranty. The thermostat isn’t a $12 part from NAPA that can be replaced in 20 minutes. The thermostat costs about $450 and probably requires 2+ hrs shop time to replace it. Not sure if the turbo version has the same thermostat or not. The failure of mine might have just been an outlier.
 
One problem I have had with my NA 2021 CX-5 is the electronic thermostat. The engine wasn’t coming up to temperature. The dealership dismissed it the first time I complained. They said it was throwing no codes. The problem persisted, so several months later, I complained again and the same dealership found the problem and replaced it under warranty. The thermostat isn’t a $12 part from NAPA that can be replaced in 20 minutes. The thermostat costs about $450 and probably requires 2+ hrs shop time to replace it. Not sure if the turbo version has the same thermostat or not. The failure of mine might have just been an outlier.
Ugh...and why does it NEED an electronic T stat??

A good tool to own is an OBD 2 bluetooth device. I use Torque Pro app. It will log several dozen PIDs. I'll log this data and forward a cvc file to my computer and show the data to the dealer, if I need to go back for any sevice I don't fix myself.

Reading info from another forum, Mazda extended warranty on this part 15 years on the CCV.

It looks like Mazda stopped using this part. Thank you...

If they ban links to another forum, grow up. Trying suppress info hurts your credibility.
 
Ugh...and why does it NEED an electronic T stat??

A good tool to own is an OBD 2 bluetooth device. I use Torque Pro app. It will log several dozen PIDs. I'll log this data and forward a cvc file to my computer and show the data to the dealer, if I need to go back for any sevice I don't fix myself.

Reading info from another forum, Mazda extended warranty on this part 15 years on the CCV.

It looks like Mazda stopped using this part. Thank you...

If they ban links to another forum, grow up. Trying suppress info hurts your credibility.
I need to get an OBD reader. I highly suspect my Mazda dealership knew the engine was not coming up to temp the first time I mentioned it to them, but blew me off as an ignorant car owner. If I would have had the data to back up my claim, it would have been a different story. And what were the effects of running the car several months w/o it coming up to temp, esp during those cold winter months. Hopefully none.
 
I need to get an OBD reader. I highly suspect my Mazda dealership knew the engine was not coming up to temp the first time I mentioned it to them, but blew me off as an ignorant car owner. If I would have had the data to back up my claim, it would have been a different story. And what were the effects of running the car several months w/o it coming up to temp, esp during those cold winter months. Hopefully none.
I've used cheap OBD2 scanners. They last about 3 to 6 months and when I need it, it doesn't work.

I finally ponied up and bought a MX+OBD2. It's several years old and going strong...

I've got a test loop I use to measure change in % engine load after making a modification. Also it run a 0 to 60 test. Torque will email the file and I can overlay a before and after. This takes all the guessing out of butt dyno calibrations.

If you get into Mazda Edit, it will record more PIDs. It will also calculate HP and Torque. I've used this software to get a % difference on mods or tuning. The HP/Torque can be calibrated to get close. In my case, I really want to know if I gained, lost or no difference. I haven't learned how to lay on graph over another or send the data as a cvc file. Any help would be appreciated. Mazda Edit has a OBD 2 reader and wire to a laptop. It works fine. This software is not refined. I'm being kind...

I've used this type of software in the past when modifying cars. When I rented a chassis dyno to confirm the difference it was remarkably similar to the software numbers.

I like to look at FE changes more these days than WOT HP/Torque. Torque Pro works very nicely to confirm or not if a mod helped FE...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
 
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I need to get an OBD reader. I highly suspect my Mazda dealership knew the engine was not coming up to temp the first time I mentioned it to them, but blew me off as an ignorant car owner. If I would have had the data to back up my claim, it would have been a different story. And what were the effects of running the car several months w/o it coming up to temp, esp during those cold winter months. Hopefully none.
That is very common issue on the NA only. Recently All NA engines from 2018- now have extended warranty (15 years/150k miles) for the T-stat + Mazda issued a special service campaign before it could become a recall. Dealers are more aware today vs 1 year ago.

the Turbo is not affected.
 
Here is some info dropped about a month ago on thermostats and how they differ between models:

 
That is very common issue on the NA only. Recently All NA engines from 2018- now have extended warranty (15 years/150k miles) for the T-stat + Mazda issued a special service campaign before it could become a recall. Dealers are more aware today vs 1 year ago.

the Turbo is not affected.
Good info to know. Hopefully, I’ll not need another T-stat, but if I do…
 
One problem I have had with my NA 2021 CX-5 is the electronic thermostat. The engine wasn’t coming up to temperature. The dealership dismissed it the first time I complained. They said it was throwing no codes. The problem persisted, so several months later, I complained again and the same dealership found the problem and replaced it under warranty. The thermostat isn’t a $12 part from NAPA that can be replaced in 20 minutes. The thermostat costs about $450 and probably requires 2+ hrs shop time to replace it. Not sure if the turbo version has the same thermostat or not. The failure of mine might have just been an outlier.
When Mazda added cylinder deactivation to the 2.5L NA in MY 2018 CX-5, the “coolant control valve” was introduced to replace the traditional thermostat. I thought it was an electrical thermostat like Toyota uses on its Dynamic Force 2.0L/2.5L NA. Turned out It still uses a traditional mechanical “fail-safe thermostat” inside but we have to get the whole coolant control valve if the thermostat fails.

The description of the coolant control valve, PYFD-15-16Z, does contains thermostat.

Part Number: PYFD1516Z
Supersession(s): PYFD-15-16Z; PYFB1516ZA; PYFD1516Z
2.5 LITER 2018-20. 2.5 LITER NON TURBO. 2019-21. A kit containing a engine coolant thermostat and additional parts for installation. A valve used to control the flow of engine coolant to the heater core. Incl.Gasket,Housing and Thermostat. JAPAN BUILT. MEXICO BUILT. inlet. outlet. WATE. Engine Coolant Thermostat Kit. HVAC Heater. THERMOSTAT HOUSING.

Based on early Service Alert and TSB for this issue the reason to fail:

“Due to production variety of the failsafe thermostat integrated in the coolant control valve, engine coolant may enter into a dry hollow in the failsafe thermostat, resulting in unintended opening of the failsafe thermostat at lower temperatures (104-176 °F (40-80 °C)). To eliminate this concern, the production process of the coolant control valve has been modified.”

TSB No. 01-005/23 Check Engine Light On with DTC P0126:00


So it’s just yet another bad design on newly added components to accommodate cylinder deactivation.
 
quicker release to production and C level cost cuts usually leads to that. Every manufacturer is following this path. after 2007-2010 its like that
 
The recommended oil change interval is 7.5k mi, a lot of people here do 5k.
I don' t think it's possible to do 13k with no oil change, and not getting low oil light triggered, but again a lot of people are clueless. Should not cause damage, but there should be a ton of options with no 13k gap, so why choose a car with one?
Stem seal in 2021 and below is not a big deal but takes up to a week at the dealer (for free)
Actually, there are two listed intervals. 7500 is the standard and 5k is for heavy duty. I do 5k just for peace of mind (of course the dealer sets the interval at 5k - my oil service display starts at 5k and counts down- as they want more service business). I am sure 7500 would work just as well if one was comfortable with it. I don't know of any long term tests which would prove one interval was better than the other. With the synthetic oil used today, intervals have gotten longer from some manufacturers (10-15k in some cases).
 
quicker release to production and C level cost cuts usually leads to that. Every manufacturer is following this path. after 2007-2010 its like that
My point is, back in 2018 when I was planning to get a new 2018 CX-5 and immediately dropped the plan once I learned Mazda had added cylinder deactivation to a reliable 2.5L NA, why Mazda spent that much effort and money to a feature which is historically having the bad reputation of failure, and gained 0 ~ 1 EPA fuel consumption ratings on an already efficient 4-cylinder engine? Looking back, almost EVERY component Mazda modified to accommodate cylindef deactivation has problems! Rocker arms / switchable hydraulic lift adjusters、cylinder head、transmission / torque converter、now the coolant control valve. It’s an indication of lack of good design and quality when Mazda engineers are redesigning something or doing the modification on parts. IMO Mazda’s R&D department seems to have some major problems.

By comparison, the newly added “electric thermostat” (not to be confused with Mazda’s “coolant control valve” although they both can have much more precise coolant flow control for different engine temperature) on Toyota’s Dynamic Force high-compression 2.5L / 2.0L found on my daughter’s 2022 Corolla Hatchback XSE doesn’t seem to have any issues since 2018!
 
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Based on early Service Alert and TSB for this issue the reason to fail:

“Due to production variety of the failsafe thermostat integrated in the coolant control valve, engine coolant may enter into a dry hollow in the failsafe thermostat, resulting in unintended opening of the failsafe thermostat at lower temperatures (104-176 °F (40-80 °C)). To eliminate this concern, the production process of the coolant control valve has been modified.”

TSB No. 01-005/23 Check Engine Light On with DTC P0126:00


So it’s just yet another bad design on newly added components to accommodate cylinder deactivation.

Thank you for posting this info. This just started happening with my '22 which has CD. It warms up to about 75°C in a typical amount of time but then just hovers around that temperature. However, today I drove for about an hour and it took 30-45 minutes to reach a normal operating temperature (much longer than normal). The outside temperature was about 10°C (50°F).

There is no check engine light and no trouble codes. I wonder if it is only a matter of time before trouble codes are generated?
 
I've used cheap OBD2 scanners. They last about 3 to 6 months and when I need it, it doesn't work.

I finally ponied up and bought a MX+OBD2. It's several years old and going strong...

I've got a test loop I use to measure change in % engine load after making a modification. Also it run a 0 to 60 test. Torque will email the file and I can overlay a before and after. This takes all the guessing out of butt dyno calibrations.

If you get into Mazda Edit, it will record more PIDs. It will also calculate HP and Torque. I've used this software to get a % difference on mods or tuning. The HP/Torque can be calibrated to get close. In my case, I really want to know if I gained, lost or no difference. I haven't learned how to lay on graph over another or send the data as a cvc file. Any help would be appreciated. Mazda Edit has a OBD 2 reader and wire to a laptop. It works fine. This software is not refined. I'm being kind...

I've used this type of software in the past when modifying cars. When I rented a chassis dyno to confirm the difference it was remarkably similar to the software numbers.

I like to look at FE changes more these days than WOT HP/Torque. Torque Pro works very nicely to confirm or not if a mod helped FE...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Wow, didn't know these tools have become so inexpensive now. Decade ago I used to have a BMW E46 M3. The wired code reader costed me $400 and required decoding by reading from a paper manual. How times have changed for the better :D
 
After a couple weeks of my '22 w/ CD being very slow to warm up to a normal temperature, today the Check Engine Light came on. Sure enough, it is code P0126 so I will be contacting the dealer to get this fixed. :(
 
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After a couple weeks of my '22 w/ CD being very slow to warm up to a normal temperature, today the Check Engine Light came on. Sure enough, it is code P0126 so I will get contacting the dealer to get this fixed. :(
Ugh, should be under warranty at least.

Is your FE suffering as well.

Good Luck
 
After a couple weeks of my '22 w/ CD being very slow to warm up to a normal temperature, today the Check Engine Light came on. Sure enough, it is code P0126 so I will be contacting the dealer to get this fixed. :(
Yes this’s a common problem for the 2.5L NA with CD. I believe you can post this problem under the proper thread here:

2019 CX-5 Coolant problem (CEL = P0126)
 
Yep, it's part of the powertrain warranty, of which I have plenty left.

Fuel economy does not appear to have been affected, so far.
In earlier days people were having this problem and been told by MNAO this expensive coolant control valve is NOT a normal mechanical thermostat hence it isn’t covered under powertrain warranty. See the thread posted above.
 

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