Installed eTrailer hitch on 2023 CX-5 Turbo

[ruthrj]

Hey all,

I installed an eTrailer branded hitch on my 23 Turbo. Installation took two hours solo. It’s a PITA maneuvering the hitch into place but a simple install if that makes sense. The hardest things to do were sliding the muffler off its rubber mounting points, and pulling the carriage bolts through the hitch with the snake wire whilst holding the hitch up lol. Plenty of room to work with when torquing the nuts and bolts. Easier than my old ‘13 sport. Only note, you’ll have to remove the extra trim on the underside of the bumper and toss it. No room for it after install.

Looks very sharp, nice matte black finish. Now I’m off to install the light kit. Not looking forward to running the lead all of the way up to the battery. My RAV4 hybrid spoiled me with the battery in the trunk space during my last hitch install.

 

[RedBaron]

This is one thing that Mazda really got right with the CX-50. Just 4 bolts and the captive nuts are already welded in. Wiring harness is still a similar pain tho'.

 

[ruthrj]

This is one thing that Mazda really got right with the CX-50. Just 4 bolts and the captive nuts are already welded in. Wiring harness is still a similar pain tho'.

Another 2 hours and I’m finished with the wiring too, Curt 56487. I’m comfortable removing the trim panels to get the wiring done back there, but as I suspected running that 12V lead is a pain. I unscrewed the panel on the underside and ran it up the drivers side. All done and glad I don’t have to do that again!

Hitch and wiring is much easier on a new vehicle. I didn’t do this to my old ‘13 for a while and all of the press fit connectors were stiff and brittle. Better to get this out of the way before plastic parts wear out.

 

[Jmaz]

Another 2 hours and I’m finished with the wiring too, Curt 56487. I’m comfortable removing the trim panels to get the wiring done back there, but as I suspected running that 12V lead is a pain. I unscrewed the panel on the underside and ran it up the drivers side. All done and glad I don’t have to do that again!

Hitch and wiring is much easier on a new vehicle. I didn’t do this to my old ‘13 for a while and all of the press fit connectors were stiff and brittle. Better to get this out of the way before plastic parts wear out.

When installing a Curt hitch on my 2014, I just removed the muffler to make it easier on myself for better access. Also , I supported the hitch on my floor jack thus making it easier to position since it was a one man job. For wiring, instead of running a wire all the way up to battery or fuse box I connected a cigarette lighter type plug to the wire and would just plug it into the 20A rated socket on the wall inside the rear hatch. The wiring is coiled and stored in the spare tire well.

 

[ruthrj]

When installing a Curt hitch on my 2014, I just removed the muffler to make it easier on myself for better access. Also , I supported the hitch on my floor jack thus making it easier to position since it was a one man job. For wiring, instead of running a wire all the way up to battery or fuse box I connected a cigarette lighter type plug to the wire and would just plug it into the 20A rated socket on the wall inside the rear hatch. The wiring is coiled and stored in the spare tire well.

Great ideas! I wouldn’t have ever thought to plug the harness into the accessory outlet back there. Considering I’ll only need this once a quarter, that’s a great solution.

I considered removing the muffler entirely but the hardware seemed incredibly tight. I gave it a quick try and thought screw it, it’s staying on.

 

[Jmaz]

Great ideas! I wouldn’t have ever thought to plug the harness into the accessory outlet back there. Considering I’ll only need this once a quarter, that’s a great solution.

I considered removing the muffler entirely but the hardware seemed incredibly tight. I gave it a quick try and thought screw it, it’s staying on.

Sounds like you got it all together and that's great. Now I'd like to add a few things.
1) I re-read what I posted and decided to more fully explain that after doing the wiring in that manner, so as to not mislead you --- I never got the chance to try it out with a trailer. The 2 instances I was going to tow ended up being hauled by truck, so the only electrical load was using a tester that put a small load while checking brake , tail lights/running lights and turn signals.
This installation was only intended for small trailers ( for a class 2 -- 1-1/4" hitch) with a combined electrical load of 8 or10 or maybe 12 amps and would be probably local daylight trips anyway but still could operate after dark if necessary. Daylight trips would only be brake lights (which are short term events) and turn signals so easy electrical load. The electrical load was conservatively figured out beforehand.

2) it took some "digging" to find a cigarette lighter plug that was rated for more than 10 amps. I found one for 15 amps with internal fuse.
3) Regarding removing the muffler. The car was relatively new and the nuts came off the exhaust flange studs easy using an impact driver. Torqueing by hand is best for reinstalling to avoid over tightening and maybe crushing flange gasket.

4) About 2 years ago when removing the hitch to perform rust removal and repainting , I rounded off one of the nuts trying to remove the muffler. After 6 winters with salty roads it took penetrant and an impact wrench using a "turbo" socket to remove it. Had to go purchase M10-1.25 nuts. Didn't have that thread pitch in my stash of fasteners or that size die to chase the threads with. Mazda apparently likes fine thread. Replaced the flange gasket too since it crumbled when things came apart. After that episode I wish I would have rustproofed the hitch before initial installation. I'd be rustproofing my new hitch depending on climate and roads. The factory black paint/powdercoat came off in small sheets.
Just putting my experiences out there.