Break in oil consumption (2024 CX-5 Sig)

Just checked the oil level in our turbo. At about 3,000 miles from the last oil change the level is half way between low and full. Added small amount of oil to bring it up closer to full. Car has a little over 50,000 miles on the ODO.

Also checked coolant, at the full mark. Can't be too careful with all the talk about cracked cylinder heads.
 
Just a general question concerning oil use during break in. I know many engines use some oil the first few miles of a break in period. My 2024 sig is the first vehicle Ive ever owned that used any oil before the first interval during break in. That being said, how many of you all out there have had oil usage during the first 5000 miles? If so, when did it stop (or did it ever stop) using oil? Ive lost a half quart in 4500 miles, just curious how others’ experiences stacked up.
My 2016 CX-5 2.5L NA with 55,000 miles is consistently using ½ ~ ⅔ quart of oil in each oil change. I use Flexible oil change schedule and it’s about 5,000 ~ 6,200 miles for that kind of oil consumption since new, including the first oil change at 5,000 miles.

And I use Mazda Moly 0W-20 oil exclusively.
 
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I think the Mazda 5w-30 is a regular mineral based oil, not synthetic.
Indeed. According to the parts guy from my Mazda dealer who has worked there all his life, Mazda OEM 5W-30 oil sold in the US is rebranded Castrol GTX conventional oil.

However, the factory 5W-30 oil used in the 2.5T from Japan could be anything. It definitely isn’t Mazda Moly oil as its molybdenum content is very low based on many UOA reports.

B477883C-6B76-4341-9208-11232BD313AF.webp
 
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I'm not sure. At 1,200 miles I drained 5.7 quarts. I know how much I put in, so I'll know in ~2 months when it's time for my next change.
Unless you took delivery of your brand new 2023 CX-5 2.5T right out of the truck, you really don’t know your CX-5’s true oil level from factory as your dealer could have added some oil (and overfilled as usual) during their new car preparation.

I took my new 2016 CX-5 just unloaded from truck since I special-ordered it 23 days prior. I watched the tech doing the new car preparation and stopped him to add oil (the oil is a brand, “Preferred Choice”, I’ve never seen) and the oil level was low from factory. I bought a bottle of Mazda Moly and topped it off by myself later at home. I also checked a couple of new cars in the lot and not surprised, they all about ⅖ quart below the Full mark of the dipstick.

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Just for info, mine arrived with 4 miles on it. First thing I checked was oil level before I even started it. I check it once a week (old man habit) and before/after long trips (>250). Mine was at the full mark. Not much of a PDI was done because there was 45 psi in each tire.
 
Just checked the oil level in our turbo. At about 3,000 miles from the last oil change the level is half way between low and full. Added small amount of oil to bring it up closer to full. Car has a little over 50,000 miles on the ODO.

Also checked coolant, at the full mark. Can't be too careful with all the talk about cracked cylinder heads.
Do you happen to notice if your usage correlates to how much you are on the throttle? I.E., more throttle, more consumption, or is it irrelevant?
 
Do you happen to notice if your usage correlates to how much you are on the throttle? I.E., more throttle, more consumption, or is it irrelevant?
Might be some correlation. That 3,000 miles contained a couple long highway trips with speeds over 65 mph so the consumption might be related to higher speeds more throttle as compared to trips around town barely getting above 45 mph.
 
On new engines, I run very easy through 2 heat cycles to set the piston rings. And very the rpm under light load. I didn't go WOT until +500 miles. At 6K mi, I changed the oil, I couldn't see any oil consumption on the dip stick.

Next oil change, I'll grab an oil sample and send it in for testing. This will be my base line. I'll do the same with the trans at that time. Cost is about $35.00. And you can cut the oil filter if you are OCD, spread the filter out and look for shinny metal of any kind. I've done that many times....

I've broke in 4 or 5 race engines over the past 10 years the same way. It's really important to very the RPM during break in under light load. On these engines, we have the car on jack stands and engage the trans and spin the tires. Then we strap it to a chassis dyno and spin the drum. First easy and build up to a full pull at WOT.

Going to max RPM once or twice won't hurt it and may even set the rings. This is how I broke in our turbo 2.5l. If it is going let loose, NOW is the time, while on warranty.

BTW, the bottom end on these little 2.5l engines is stout. They have forged crank shafts and connecting rods. That is above and beyond what's need at this RPM and power level. We run that combo to 1200 HP and 8000 RPM. Above that we move on to billet/forged parts....

I have over 265,000 miles on my diesel truck used to tow a car hauler. I've never add oil between oil changes, 10K mi and the oil level never changes. This truck has seen WOT over the years as well. I have run oil sample tests as well. Towing it loads the engine and it runs from 10 to 30 PSI boost all day long on trips....
 
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On new engines, I run very easy through 2 heat cycles to set the piston rings. And very the rpm under light load. I didn't go WOT until +500 miles. At 6K mi, I changed the oil, I couldn't see any oil consumption on the dip stick.

Next oil change, I'll grab an oil sample and send it in for testing. This will be my base line. I'll do the same with the trans at that time. Cost is about $35.00. And you can cut the oil filter if you are OCD, spread the filter out and look for shinny metal of any kind. I've done that many times....

I've broke in 4 or 5 race engines over the past 10 years the same way. It's really important to very the RPM during break in under light load. On these engines, we have the car on jack stands and engage the trans and spin the tires. Then we strap it to a chassis dyno and spin the drum. First easy and build up to a full pull at WOT.

Going to max RPM once or twice won't hurt it and may even set the rings. This is how I broke in our turbo 2.5l. If it is going let loose, NOW is the time, while on warranty.

BTW, the bottom end on these little 2.5l engines is stout. They have forged crank shafts and connecting rods. That is above and beyond what's need at this RPM and power level. We run that combo to 1200 HP and 8000 RPM. Above that we move on to billet/forged parts....

I have over 265,000 miles on my diesel truck used to tow a car hauler. I've never add oil between oil changes, 10K mi and the oil level never changes. This truck has seen WOT over the years as well. I have run oil sample tests as well. Towing it loads the engine and it runs from 10 to 30 PSI boost all day long on trips....
We seem to have similar methods of break-in. In my case, I have moderate hills that force a variation in RPM, Vacuum, and Boost. I run my first change to 5K and keep that interview. It has been very successful for me on past vehicles. I have sent past samples to Blackstone and shown good results. This is the first new engine I have ever had that has used any amount of oil over the interval. hence my original post.
 
Indeed. According to the parts guy from my Mazda dealer who has worked there all his life, Mazda OEM 5W-30 oil sold in the US is rebranded Castrol GTX conventional oil.

However, the factory 5W-30 oil used in the 2.5T from Japan could be anything. It definitely isn’t Mazda Moly oil as its molybdenum content is very low based on many UOA reports.

View attachment 330278
Indeed, the Turbo doesn't get the high moly oil. But that's not a con.

Unless you took delivery of your brand new 2023 CX-5 2.5T right out of the truck, you really don’t know your CX-5’s true oil level from factory as your dealer could have added some oil (and overfilled as usual) during their new car preparation.
It's always possible, but they said they didn't. I didn't even let them wash the car and it still had lines on it from the adhesive strips that I had to remove during my initial detail and coating. It took chemicals and a mild clay to take them off, if anyone plans on doing it themselves. I don't really trust dealers with cleaning cars :cautious:


I took my new 2016 CX-5 just unloaded from truck since I special-ordered it 23 days prior. I watched the tech doing the new car preparation and stopped him to add oil (the oil is a brand, “Preferred Choice”, I’ve never seen) and the oil level was low from factory. I bought a bottle of Mazda Moly and topped it off by myself later at home. I also checked a couple of new cars in the lot and not surprised, they all about ⅖ quart below the Full mark of the dipstick.
Who knows, things could be different now.
 
I've broke in 4 or 5 race engines over the past 10 years the same way. It's really important to very the RPM during break in under light load. On these engines, we have the car on jack stands and engage the trans and spin the tires. Then we strap it to a chassis dyno and spin the drum. First easy and build up to a full pull at WOT.

Going to max RPM once or twice won't hurt it and may even set the rings. This is how I broke in our turbo 2.5l. If it is going let loose, NOW is the time, while on warranty.
I've been breaking in the Miata this way. 3rd gear, putzing around the neighborhood, taking the RPMs between 1000-4000. Also, it's not just about the engine but the drivetrain as well. After about 200 miles I went WOT a couple of times to 7,000 RPM. This little engine doesn't start to pull until after 4,000 RPM; quite different than our 2.5 turbo. The rings should be well on their way and I'll do the first oil change and sample in October, when I change both cars. That's going to be around 1K miles. You need to know what kind of shape the engine is in and take the opportunity to get some better oil in there for the next 5K.
 
After about 200 miles I went WOT a couple of times to 7,000 RPM.
200 miles on the odometer is too early to be taking the car up to redline. While going WOT here and there while the engine is still breaking in, provided you have at least 500 miles on the odometer (And likely not going ALL the way to redline) Is fine, doing so frequently, especially if its repeatedly will damage internals.
On new engines, I run very easy through 2 heat cycles to set the piston rings. And very the rpm under light load. I didn't go WOT until +500 miles.
Likely would be best to wait even longer, like 1000+ miles before going WOT? They say to gradually increase your "Max" rpm from 3000rpm every few hundred miles or so until eventually getting closer to redline at around the 3000 mile mark, when the engine should be fully worn in.
It's really important to vary the RPM during break in under light load.


Going to max RPM once or twice won't hurt it and may even set the rings.
@N7turbo
 
⋯ It's always possible, but they said they didn't. I didn't even let them wash the car and it still had lines on it from the adhesive strips that I had to remove during my initial detail and coating. It took chemicals and a mild clay to take them off, if anyone plans on doing it themselves. I don't really trust dealers with cleaning cars :cautious:
Yes, I did see some reports here claimed that their 2.5T overfilled above the Max mark from factory. But I have not seen such claim on 2.5L NA yet.

if the oil level is high when you check the oil level on your brand new vehicle, it’s hard to tell if it’s over-filled from factory as the tech could have added some oil during PDI. But if the oil level is low like mine that certainly indicates the oil is under-filled from factory.
 
200 miles on the odometer is too early to be taking the car up to redline. While going WOT here and there while the engine is still breaking in, provided you have at least 500 miles on the odometer (And likely not going ALL the way to redline) Is fine, doing so frequently, especially if its repeatedly will damage internals.

Likely would be best to wait even longer, like 1000+ miles before going WOT? They say to gradually increase your "Max" rpm from 3000rpm every few hundred miles or so until eventually getting closer to redline at around the 3000 mile mark, when the engine should be fully worn in.

@N7turbo
I agree. At least every car owner’s manual I’ve seen has similar statement in break-in period section which usually is the first 600 ~ 1,000 miles.

From our Mazda:
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From Honda:

BA743A15-0E35-4A5D-91E0-36C5DDB1335E.webp
 
When it comes to the official recommendations on engine break-in, especially the bit about not changing the oil early, you can chuck that in the bin and watch this:


The message: don't wait to change the oil. Clean oil reduces wear during a time when the engine is experiencing more wear than any other time in its life.

And this one starting at 5:32:


(but don't actually chuck the owner's manual, there's plenty of other valid information in there)
 
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When it comes to the official recommendations on engine break-in, especially the bit about not changing the oil early, you can chuck that in the bin.
Agreed. At the very least, change the oil filter after the 5000km break in process. There will be some metal shavings in there.
 
Imo, there is no hard and fast method to breaking in an engine. Basically, don't hold it at a steady rpm. Very the rpm to the mid rpm point. Get it up to operating temp and repeat. Change the oil soon.

Op, have you run a leak down test? It might reveal which cylinder or cylinders. Or if its pistons rings or valve seals. That is where I would start. Could be the block was not machined properly, it has out of round cylinders. We have found out of round cylinders in domestic V8s. Imports are not immune from machining errors.

If the test indicates it's leaking into the crank case, use an inexpensive boroscope and take pictures. You are looking for vertical scratchs or broken piston. Look at all for to get a comparison. Unfortunately, I've seen both over the years...

With this ifo, you can take that to the Stealership.

Good luck
 
I am at 25000 miles and changed the first time early and now change at 5000 mile intervals and my 2023 turbo has not burned any oil. ie level does not move on the dip stick between changes. lots of highway miles at 80mph+ I have also broke my engines in like I drive them. ie don't abuse but don't baby them. The area I live helps as lots of hills and higher speed limits. I have been driving since the early 70's and this method has always worked for me. I have never in over 50 vehicles had an oil burner. Closest to an oil burner was a BMW oilhead. met with a factory tech (not a dealer tech but actual factory tech) he told me to use the cheapest oil I could find and run it hard ie redline it and chop throttle several times over the course of 100 miles and then change oil. it worked.
 
Indeed. According to the parts guy from my Mazda dealer who has worked there all his life, Mazda OEM 5W-30 oil sold in the US is rebranded Castrol GTX conventional oil.

However, the factory 5W-30 oil used in the 2.5T from Japan could be anything. It definitely isn’t Mazda Moly oil as its molybdenum content is very low based on many UOA reports.

View attachment 330278
if you run the msds sheet it comes back made by Conoco oil company.
 

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