Passenger side ebrake clevis sticks on (Protege5)

I repacked the caliper pins with grease. They can wear out as well, and then need to be replaced.
There are some issues with the ebrakes as well.
 
If you can't fix it, maybe just don't use the brake. I put my manual transmission P5 in 1st or 2nd gear when I park it and I don't set the brake. I learned as a kid that this was a valid option and I've never had a problem in 21 years. If you've got an automatic, you can put it in Park, of course. If it's hilly where you live, you can cock the wheels and let the car gently roll into the curb and then leave the car in Park or 1st gear.
 
My car did that.
My parking brake cables were rusted and binding, and the clevis spring wasn't strong enough to retract the brake, so I added more spring pressure. 😂

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Then I replaced the parking brake cables and I no longer needed the extra spring.

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It's probably a good idea to replace both sides, but you shouldn't have to replace the front part of the mechanism. Check the front part to see if the cable is binding though.

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Here's a link to the service manual if you need it,..

 
If you can't fix it, maybe just don't use the brake.

That's not the best idea.
It's the pivoting motion of the clevis that ratchets the self adjustment mechanism inside the rear brakes,..

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It's the proper adjustment of the mechanism that sets the pedal height of your brake pedal.
If your rear brake adjustment is off, your brake pedal moves closer and closer to the floorboards as the pads wear down.

That clevis attachment point is a point of failure as well.
Rebuilt rear calipers have been known to not work properly (the adjustor screw stripped or missing or just wouldn't work) or they would leak at the seal because the adjustment mechanism wasn't inspected or replaced.
They would replace the clevis seal, but the clevis pin would be worn and loose in the bore and wreck the new seal.


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Life in the Great North East salt belt,.. 😂

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Here's a link to all kinds of gruesome pictures of my rotting car,..

 

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