So. I attempted and seemingly failed to tackle the whole 'successful water pump replacement' task.
All seemed to go according to the John can fix anything utube vid...except I couldn't get the camshaft sprockets loosened even while using the cam tool. Not sure if I even got the correct tool at this point to be honest, because any torque I was putting on the cam bolt was causing the tool to rise up out of where it was doing its work. No matter - the smaller cam chains looked okay. I figured that the best thing to do is be fine with a replacement water pump and main timing chain. parts replaced: water pump, main chain, main chain tensioner, main chain guides, gaskets and seals for valve covers, plenum, spark plugs.
The only other 'out of the ordinary' thing that happened was I took this metal disc cover off the end of the bank A camshaft hockey puck looking thing (OCV plugs into this hockey puck looking thing) to see if there was something behind there that could help remove the camshaft bolt and this little orange plastic dohicky and a spring came out - which I put back in before replacing the metal disc cover. Am I concerned this has something to do with the issue I am now experiencing? 50-50.
After rebuilding: P0020 CEL came on. I rooted around and realized the connector to the top of the bank B OCV wasn't connected. Connected, cleared the code, viola! Next morning P0016 came on but the car runs fine. At least it runs fine until I really REALLY listen close to the engine while it idles...then I can hear the slightest of occasional stumbling. I also drove it an hour each way with seemingly no issue being created by the 16 code. The next day - I even reset it, drove it, parked it and started it which yielded a clear dash.
I wouldn't mind getting some input as to what the general consensus is. I suppose I could at least get back down to the valve covers being opened up, roll things around to where the timing marks are visible and see if the cam timings seem correct based on the colored chain linkages. I can test the sensors to see if for some reason those were damaged in the process of tear down/rebuild. I can pray like the dickens that the orange plastic thing and little ballpoint pen spring don't have something to do with it, because I don't know really what those do at all. I realize that logic dictates that the exact work I did pretty much results in there being a timing problem, but wanted to get a few opinions.
TIA,
Bill
All seemed to go according to the John can fix anything utube vid...except I couldn't get the camshaft sprockets loosened even while using the cam tool. Not sure if I even got the correct tool at this point to be honest, because any torque I was putting on the cam bolt was causing the tool to rise up out of where it was doing its work. No matter - the smaller cam chains looked okay. I figured that the best thing to do is be fine with a replacement water pump and main timing chain. parts replaced: water pump, main chain, main chain tensioner, main chain guides, gaskets and seals for valve covers, plenum, spark plugs.
The only other 'out of the ordinary' thing that happened was I took this metal disc cover off the end of the bank A camshaft hockey puck looking thing (OCV plugs into this hockey puck looking thing) to see if there was something behind there that could help remove the camshaft bolt and this little orange plastic dohicky and a spring came out - which I put back in before replacing the metal disc cover. Am I concerned this has something to do with the issue I am now experiencing? 50-50.
After rebuilding: P0020 CEL came on. I rooted around and realized the connector to the top of the bank B OCV wasn't connected. Connected, cleared the code, viola! Next morning P0016 came on but the car runs fine. At least it runs fine until I really REALLY listen close to the engine while it idles...then I can hear the slightest of occasional stumbling. I also drove it an hour each way with seemingly no issue being created by the 16 code. The next day - I even reset it, drove it, parked it and started it which yielded a clear dash.
I wouldn't mind getting some input as to what the general consensus is. I suppose I could at least get back down to the valve covers being opened up, roll things around to where the timing marks are visible and see if the cam timings seem correct based on the colored chain linkages. I can test the sensors to see if for some reason those were damaged in the process of tear down/rebuild. I can pray like the dickens that the orange plastic thing and little ballpoint pen spring don't have something to do with it, because I don't know really what those do at all. I realize that logic dictates that the exact work I did pretty much results in there being a timing problem, but wanted to get a few opinions.
TIA,
Bill