What have you done to your MSP today?

Noticed the vacuum was lower in 1574 than normal and it threw a P0171 code. Also noticed the EBC wasn't lowering boost when I turned it down. Checked the WG and the diaphragm was leaking. Unhooked it for now, good thing it has a forged motor or it would have blown the stock rods to smithereens.

It also is still bubbling coolant out the overflow, mainly at idle. Doesn't appear to be overheating. I removed the thermostat, swapped to a massive CS radiator with a different fan and cap, flushed the coolant with fresh distilled water and burped the system. Has to be the water pump.

I rebuilt the head on the stock motor right before the rods started knocking so I think I will go ahead and swap the head over, install the ZE intake and CS exhaust cams, possibly get some hydra cam gears and cut and paint the valve cover. Then install my ZE intake manifold, new water pump and blue gates timing belt/components, Steedspeed mani, low mileage T25 and Forge WGA with new 14psi spring.

And I ordered a vacuum pump that just came in so I can recharge the AC in both cars and fix the leaks.

As for 1574 I ordered new main and rod bearings, will have the crank polished and put it all back together. Probably should have waited to order the bearings until I had the crank out but I have a spare good crank so I should be alright.
 
Oh and I removed the AFC in the forged car and honestly I cannot tell a difference at all without it. At ~16psi it runs perfectly fine on the stock tune, AFRs are even within the proper range.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
Noticed the vacuum was lower in 1574 than normal and it threw a P0171 code. Also noticed the EBC wasn't lowering boost when I turned it down. Checked the WG and the diaphragm was leaking. Unhooked it for now, good thing it has a forged motor or it would have blown the stock rods to smithereens.

It also is still bubbling coolant out the overflow, mainly at idle. Doesn't appear to be overheating. I removed the thermostat, swapped to a massive CS radiator with a different fan and cap, flushed the coolant with fresh distilled water and burped the system. Has to be the water pump.

I rebuilt the head on the stock motor right before the rods started knocking so I think I will go ahead and swap the head over, install the ZE intake and CS exhaust cams, possibly get some hydra cam gears and cut and paint the valve cover. Then install my ZE intake manifold, new water pump and blue gates timing belt/components, Steedspeed mani, low mileage T25 and Forge WGA with new 14psi spring.

And I ordered a vacuum pump that just came in so I can recharge the AC in both cars and fix the leaks.

As for 1574 I ordered new main and rod bearings, will have the crank polished and put it all back together. Probably should have waited to order the bearings until I had the crank out but I have a spare good crank so I should be alright.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you got some nice goodies going in. Any chance we get some pictures sound clip or video after the update to the 1547

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 
Sure, what do you want to see? The daily is 1574, that one has an FMIC, VTCS delete, SRI and SSFTC but otherwise is mostly stock. That is the one getting the new bearings.

1345 is the built car that I am planning to install the new turbo, Forge WGA, steedspeed, head, ZE and CS cams and ZE IM.

So much work to be done and not much time to do it.
 
Got 2 my BFG rain slicks mounted on the BBSs today, taking the other 2 to be mounted tomorrow. Still planning to remove the old paint and re-do them, but I really want to install them. The tires on my car now are so bald it's dangerous, especially in the rain.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
Sure, what do you want to see? The daily is 1574, that one has an FMIC, VTCS delete, SRI and SSFTC but otherwise is mostly stock. That is the one getting the new bearings.

1345 is the built car that I am planning to install the new turbo, Forge WGA, steedspeed, head, ZE and CS cams and ZE IM.

So much work to be done and not much time to do it.
Click to expand...
Show us the built one after you install everything.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 
hornsfan10609 said:
Oh and I removed the AFC in the forged car and honestly I cannot tell a difference at all without it. At ~16psi it runs perfectly fine on the stock tune, AFRs are even within the proper range.
Click to expand...

It's actually quite amazing, right? The car runs so rich from the factory, that it finally, at those levels, starts making acceptable AFRs. I noticed that too. That's when I was running without anything (albeit, at 26psi) and cooked #4 piston, though.
 
Well I got the MSP finally on the road last Thursday..it has seen a bit over 200miles now and is doing well. Have a couple little odds and ends to address, but for how cheap the car was and how it sat for 3 years and I had no idea the condition of the engine it is doing very well. Still need to get tires for the RH wheels, but for now im running the 03 ES wheels I had on my old protege. I also took a 125mile trip with the MSP last friday to go pick up a 03.5 front lip and got that mounted over the weekend.

received_10208812254718826_zpsrdkp8kwr.jpeg


PSX_20170410_090146_zpsh0m5qdjw.jpg
 
Hoping to install some POPE goodies and camber plates over this coming weekend:

nCJHIcZ.jpg


4Y30ytR.jpg
 
Last edited:
hornsfan10609 said:
The original T25 with 175k miles. Still runs great and doesn't blow any oil. Planning to get a T28 but I have some other things I need to get first.
Click to expand...

Be prepared. T28 is not fun. I threw on a gt2871 myself had to pull fans and radiator (5mins no biggy) biggest pita for t25-t28 will be turbo clearing block and trans, your waterlines both will need to be either carefully rebent and oil return feed will need to be rebent and extended. Be careful with your oil feed fitting get some teflon tape.
 
rjfqis.jpg

The old t25 you can see here above

295ybns.jpg

Heres a good idea of the clearence im talking about, wish i had better angle but trust me its stuffed in there.

2la4z02.jpg

And here was a photo after install, popped pin hole in old radiator threw in a full aluminum half stack i had laying around, runs much cooler now. Been running 14psi on t28 for quiet awhile. Cold idle a/f bounces 14.7-15.3 warm idle bounces 14.4-14.8 cruise sits around 13.6 wot 10.5
You lose alot of the low end grunt put your ass in the seat but the powerband is much nicer up top. T25 used to spool and be ready about 2500rpm the gt2871 starts pushin about 3800.
 
Sgt_smoku said:
The old t25 you can see here above


Heres a good idea of the clearence im talking about, wish i had better angle but trust me its stuffed in there.

And here was a photo after install, popped pin hole in old radiator threw in a full aluminum half stack i had laying around, runs much cooler now. Been running 14psi on t28 for quiet awhile. Cold idle a/f bounces 14.7-15.3 warm idle bounces 14.4-14.8 cruise sits around 13.6 wot 10.5
You lose alot of the low end grunt put your ass in the seat but the powerband is much nicer up top. T25 used to spool and be ready about 2500rpm the gt2871 starts pushin about 3800.
Click to expand...

Very nice
 
Sgt_smoku said:
Be prepared. T28 is not fun. I threw on a gt2871 myself had to pull fans and radiator (5mins no biggy) biggest pita for t25-t28 will be turbo clearing block and trans, your waterlines both will need to be either carefully rebent and oil return feed will need to be rebent and extended. Be careful with your oil feed fitting get some teflon tape.
Click to expand...

Easy issues to overcome for the most part. Though, unlike you, I was running a Mishimoto radiator and fan shroud. Didn't have any issues. Slightly bent the steel lines and ordered a replacement feed. My return was already modified to the rear top of my AWR pan. Never had block-to-turbo clearance issues, though. I did fabricate my own actuator bracket, though one can be purchased for this setup for $30. I ran two 2860s and a 2871.

Additionally, the oil supply has inverted flare fittings- there is no need to use sealing tape or compound on it.
 
323 said:
did you like the 2860 or 2871 better? were they both .64
Click to expand...

eBay journal bearing 2860, .64
eBay journal bearing 2871, .64

I could make more boost with the 2871- that's when I was running 26psi. But they both lasted a very, very short time.

After I put the GT28R (Garrett), that's when I really started killing transmissions. Small and would spool super fast. I ran it at 20-22psi, but ended up lowering it to somewhere around 16psi to save transmissions. E
 
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