What have you done to your MSP today?

[Preferio]

Civic gear oil is the same way. Like water.

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Up until Honda actually branded their own "MTF", the fluid recommended was 10w30 or 10w40 engine oil. With that being said, I was reading a fluid comparison chart and the MTF is basically the same weight as a 10w40 engine oil. I believe the only real difference is additives.


I put Syncromesh (Pennzoil) in the transmission before last and I've used it for a long time, different applications, and never remember it being as thin as the GM. I started using it in my Integra, then Civic when I developed the notorious Honda third gear syncro grind. It was great, made it almost non-existent. From that point on, I've always recommended it assuming it's comparable to what would otherwise be used.

 

[Preferio]

So, transmission #8, without warning yesterday on my lunch break went into fourth gear and will not come out of fourth gear. You could shift into neutral and it felt normal, but if you were to release the clutch, it was like it was stuck halfway between being in gear and neutral, and would stall the engine. The only gear that you could put it into with the engine running was fourth and fifth. You could put it into all other gear positions with the engine off. This transmission didn't feel great anyway as it was very "notchy". As it was the middle of the day and I've yet to replace the engine in the P5, without a way to get to pick another unit up, I canabilized the P5 for its transmission and installed it. From start to finish, including removal of the P5, removal and replacement of the MSP transmission, oil change and straightened up a few things, it took 4h23m18s.

Transmission #9 is installed... I'll actually hit double digits soon....

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

So, transmission #8, without warning yesterday on my lunch break went into fourth gear and will not come out of fourth gear. You could shift into neutral and it felt normal, but if you were to release the clutch, it was like it was stuck halfway between being in gear and neutral, and would stall the engine. The only gear that you could put it into with the engine running was fourth and fifth. You could put it into all other gear positions with the engine off. This transmission didn't feel great anyway as it was very "notchy". As it was the middle of the day and I've yet to replace the engine in the P5, without a way to get to pick another unit up, I canabilized the P5 for its transmission and installed it. From start to finish, including removal of the P5, removal and replacement of the MSP transmission, oil change and straightened up a few things, it took 4h23m18s.

Transmission #9 is installed... I'll actually hit double digits soon....

lol holy s***, that's terrible

 

[Valk]

some obd questions....

finally picked up a scan tool as the cel flashed at me all yesterday heh.. I have.... p0134, p0131, p0140 which all tell me my o2 sensors are ******.. but both of them? i also have p0300 and 302 telling of misfires. i replaced the entire ignition system a month ago so im not convinced coils are bad ect.

also have p0660 which is an intake manifold one. but ive deleted the vtcs but left the electric bits intact. car has had idling problems for a while and i was wondering if the IAC might be connected to that code.

 

[Preferio]

I had those same DTCs the day I bought my car. The dealership had installed new O2 sensors in an attempt to correct the issue. I ended up finding a boost leak. Not saying that's what it is, just funny I remember having the same DTCs. Can you view live data and check your O2 voltages and fuel trims with whatever "scan tool" you purchased? I'd assume the flashing MIL is the P0302, but is that a symptom of a failed upstream O2 causing poor air/fuel mixture resulting in a misfire? Check the health of your upstream O2 first, that's where I'd start.

The P0660 is a completely separate and unrelated circuit to the IAC. The test for that DTC are pretty straight forward- check resistance on the solenoid (22-26ohms), verify the red/white wire has voltage and verify ground continuity. It's probably the solenoid.

 

[Preferio]

I had those same DTCs the day I bought my car. The dealership had installed new O2 sensors in an attempt to correct the issue. I ended up finding a boost leak. Not saying that's what it is, just funny I remember having the same DTCs. Can you view live data and check your O2 voltages and fuel trims with whatever "scan tool" you purchased? I'd assume the flashing MIL is the P0302, but is that a symptom of a failed upstream O2 causing poor air/fuel mixture resulting in a misfire? Check the health of your upstream O2 first, that's where I'd start.

The P0660 is a completely separate and unrelated circuit to the IAC. The test for that DTC are pretty straight forward- check resistance on the solenoid (22-26ohms), verify the red/white wire has voltage and verify ground continuity. It's probably the solenoid.

 

[Valk]

I was watching the live data on both my cars. My wifes o2 sensors have full range but most noticable will peg 0.8-0.9 when you blip the throttle where mine read 0.05-0.250 no matter the throttle position. Car never runs in closed loop where wifes will drop to cl at idle

My idle bounces around where hers is steady.

 

[Preferio]

Painted the wheels yesterday.
Stripped them Saturday.
Sprayed them with three coats.
Not perfect, but much better than they were.

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[ZealoustheEnder]

Painted the wheels yesterday.
Stripped them Saturday.
Sprayed them with three coats.
Not perfect, but much better than they were.

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Awesome

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[Preferio]

Opened up transmission #7 to check it out

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[ZealoustheEnder]

Opened up transmission #7 to check it out

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Awesome thats whats left of fourth?

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[323]

i'll be replacing my driver side axle seal this saturday to fix my gear oil leak. will i have to remove the axle from the hub to have enough space to remove it from the transmission?

 

[Valk]

Just unhooking the spindle from the strut should be plenty.

 

[323]

Just unhooking the spindle from the strut should be plenty.

installed a new axle seal and refilled the tranny with penzoil synchromesh. did it in 2.5 hours and proud of my semi noob self. i had to unhook the outer tie rod too to get just enough space to take the axle out of the tranny. going for a test drive in a bit

 

[Preferio]

Easiest way is to remove the spindle/hub from lower ball joint and it'll swing right out of the way without having to remove anything else. 14mm head bolt, pop it apart, off with the axle nut, couple of taps put of the hub, swing it out to the left, separate the axle from the trans, pop the seal out, install new, reinstall in reverse order. But yeah, lower ball joint next time.

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[Valk]

Splitting thehub from the arm works great too. Can just removethe whole assembly that way and have it out of theway. Depends how badly rusted together the spindle is to the pin that goes through. Can be a real b**** to pry apart.

 

[jleblanc26]

Had a viper 4806v remote start/keyless entry installed.


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[Preferio]

Reinstalled the carbon fiber hood this weekend. Went to PaP to get a blower switch, but all three cars that I could take them from were missing. Cut a few connector ends I needed while I was there. I really hate doing that. In all likelihood the harness was never coming out of it before it got completely scrapped, but I still hate doing it. *Attempted* to install tint this weekend, also. LOLOLOL I got the rear, left quarter window, then started on the rear, left window. I've never done tint before, or maybe once 15 years ago, but it seems pretty straight forward. Bought solution and the squeegee. I start on the rear passenger window, the wind blows, sandwiches it, but I'm able to pull it apart because it's soaked in solution. Frantically trying to get it up there and the wind is blowing like crazy and it sandwiches again, but I didn't want to pull really hard and it was ruined anyway, so I gave up. I paid $27 or something like that for pre-cut tint... Shops around here do it for $160... It's worth $160...

 

[jleblanc26]

I just did mine. Very worth it, lol.


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[Preferio]

A couple of things I want: Passenger aftermarket mount and a bumper sag kit. I've thought about making my own. Use one of the bumper covers I have at home to trace a template, bring it to the shop, cut it out and tack the retaining hardware to it. It would be very easy. But, isn't it just easier to pay $40? Haha

And wheel spacers... I think I'm going +15mm on all four corners. I'm worried about the rear rubbing, though. I think I can safely get away with 10mm without making modifications (rolling) to the fender.

Surprisingly, I'm very happy with the car right now on 14psi. With the cheap NXS MBC, I get a ~4psi spike above set pressure. I'd like to add an EBC to my wish list, too. At this point, I'm all over the board with what I want to do. I've had the car listed for a week now with absolutely zero inquiries. I normally only get 3, 4 or 5 replies per post and generally is following a weekend, but nothing. I listed it for $4,500OBO. If someone brought me $4,000 I'd sell it, but it won't leave my hands for less than that.