Transmission oil flush/change at 40,000 km?

[ducksarewet]

You read that right. I just had my 2015 AWD in for an oil change. The dealer said that given the climate variations where I live, they recommend doing a tranny flush at 40k Km (which I'm at) despite Mazda not recommending it. I live in Saskatoon Saskatchewan where summers can hit over +30C and winters can hit -30C.

Should I do the flush so early?

 

[paris1]

Earlier than what? Mazda doesn't recommend one at all.

 

[fvansan]

He is a rip-off dealer full of BS to suck the money out of your wallet and laugh at you behind your back. I suggest you find a new service service provider for he has told you all you need to know about them..

 

[fvansan]

Also, this is not a tranny one wants to flush at all!!!

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

IMO... a drain and fill at that mileage would fine. "Avoid" the flush though!!! The drain and fill should be quite a bit cheaper as well since it only drains about 1/3 of the AT fluid.

 

[CX5_Pete]

The word flush is used very loosely now days. The dealer may say "flush" but what they really mean is one drain and fill. I would ask them to be clear what they do during a "flush"

 

[ducksarewet]

He is a rip-off dealer full of BS to suck the money out of your wallet and laugh at you behind your back. I suggest you find a new service service provider for he has told you all you need to know about them..

The next dealer is a 2hour drive away. Not very convenient, and they have been great otherwise.

 

[GP 2004]

I will never get a flush done to my trans. Drain and fill only!

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

Yea, a dealer isn't going to "flush" your trans. The service manual specifically only specifies a drain. That's like "flushing" your motor of oil.. you'd have to prime it before you started it lol.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Actually my Infiniti dealer did do a flush one time even though FSM doesn't call for it. They have some flush machine that connects to the transmission cooler lines. Needless to say and it could be coincidence but had torque converter problems in short order. It was covered under warranty though.

 

[yrwei52]

The service manual specifically only specifies a drain.

The way Mazda's SkyActiv-Drive auto tranny designed, I just don't see how the dealer can actually "flush" the transmission! There's no AFT lines coming out to radiator for cooling like other automatic transmissions, and there's no way to hook up the AT flushing machine!

Drain-and-fill or taking the fluid pan down is the only way to refresh the ATF. Dealers say "flush" may just want to charge you more money. I'd never do ATF flush even on non-SkyActiv-Drive AT's.

 

[ducksarewet]

Now that several of you have pointed out that it wouldn't be a "flush" would it be a good idea to drain and the tranny at this point?

 

[ijaen]

I agree with this.
I would accept a drain and fill but not a "flush".

The word flush is used very loosely now days. The dealer may say "flush" but what they really mean is one drain and fill. I would ask them to be clear what they do during a "flush"

 

[Seabright]

How does the fluid look? If it looks fresh, maybe go a little longer if you want. If it is showing signs of use, do a drain and fill. Transmissions are expensive and doing a drain and fill every so often can't hurt.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

FYI: Units on market to service units without external AT lines.

http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...map=ROB92500&gclid=CPjZw6L9sc0CFYhffgodS_QMIA

" Our unique approach to exchanging fluid through the transmission oil dipstick"

http://www.robinair.com/sites/default/files/526233_E.pdf

Dipstick Only Mode —Transfers used ATF and new ATF through the
transmission’s dipstick tube by running a hose directly into the transmission
fluid pan. This mode eliminates the need to remove the cooler lines.

Dipstick/Cooler Mode — Initially transfers used ATF and new ATF through
the transmission’s dipstick tube. Then with the engine running, new ATF is
pumped into the transmission through the dipstick tube, while the used ATF is
evacuated through the cooler lines. This mode provides the quickest transfer of
used and new ATF.

Cooler Only Mode — Transfers used ATF and new ATF through the oil cooler
lines. Use this mode if the transmission does not have a dipstick.

Manual/Top-Off Mode — Manually adds or removes fluid to or from the
transmission pan. Use this mode if it is necessary to remove the transmission
pan, or to add fluid when using another mode.

 

[CX5_Pete]

Now that several of you have pointed out that it wouldn't be a "flush" would it be a good idea to drain and the tranny at this point?

Here's the thing, the owner's manual doesn't specify when to replace it. In my vehicles with AT, I usually change it at 30K miles (~50K km) with 2-3 drain and fills, but these were older transmissions. There was a time when engine oil was replaced every 3K miles or 5K km. Now the engine oil can go much farther than that. It's really hard to say without any testing or real world experience when this "lifetime" fluid should be changed if at all. The dealer would recommend you change it sooner and more often so they make more money. From an owner's standpoint, I find it hard to accept that the ATF does not have to be replaced according to the owner's manual. I looked at some of the ATF analysis at BITOG and it seems the ATF can go a lot longer than I would have expected.

So to answer your question, I don't know.

If it were my car, I would do a single drain and fill every 30K miles or 50K km just because thats what I am comfortable with.

 

[Seabright]

Sound analysis and advice.

 

[paris1]

If it were my car, I would do a single drain and fill every 30K miles or 50K km just because thats what I am comfortable with.

So I'm a bit confused with the terminology being used here. Are you (and others here) defining "drain and fill" to mean just fluid; no filter change? If so, what good would that serve if you're not removing all the gunk caught in the filter?

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

IMO... granted three drain/fills & a filter change would be best but there is value in just partial replacement of AT fluid as well. I've read many articles that state this helps restore fluid conditioners and lubricating properties to the AT fluid that is lost over time. No idea what particulate level Mazda AT filter captures at. FSM states to only change that filter if chunks are found in the pain. Of course one won't know that unless they dropped the pan. It would have been nice if the AT pan was sealed with a physical gasket over the liquid gasket (IIRC 24 hour cure time) that is utilized.

 

[CX5_Pete]

So I'm a bit confused with the terminology being used here. Are you (and others here) defining "drain and fill" to mean just fluid; no filter change? If so, what good would that serve if you're not removing all the gunk caught in the filter?

What I am about to say is purely anecdotal for these "lifetime" ATF maintenance

On our old dodge caravan we dropped the pan at every ATF change since that was what was required. We also had a Saturn in the family with a spin on ATF filter that was changed every time, but on the newer vehicles, I don't drop the pan till about the 3rd change. Funny thing is, the caravan tranny crapped out on us at about 80k, while my other cars ran fine and made it to over 100k without any tranny problems. I am ok with not changing the internal filter every time (if I am changing it every 30k) because:

1) for the most part the transmission is a sealed unit. The only thing that can contaminate the fluid is the internal parts themselves (wear material from the gears, clutch material, and whatever is left from the factory). And if material from these components are clogging your filter, buddy I think you got bigger problems

2) since this is a "lifetime" fluid, I would assume that the filter should work till at least up to the end of the powertrain warranty

3) I am not convinced the cost of parts and labor (if you don't do it yourself) for this preventative maintenance item is worth it to do at every ATF change if you decide to change the fluid at every 30k miles or earlier.