headlight low beams with abrupt shadow

[SayNoToPistons]

Out of boredom and curiosity, I tried adjusting the driver side projector about one counter clockwise turn HIGHER as many have suggested. Results?

ABSOLUTELY horrible alignment. One turn will not only result in completely mismatched left and right projector cutoff beam alignment, it also blinded on coming drivers and ahead drivers. When traveling about 2-3 car lengths behind a midsize sedan, the driver side projector is noticeably higher than the sedan's side mirror. It gets worse the further back you are, as the beam is angled with a positive slope with the new settings (which should NEVER be the case). Of course, it blinded on coming drivers as well.

As I mentioned before, the cut off alignment was completely off from the passenger side projector's cut off beam. Now this part bothered me the most. With original settings, the beam was extremely wide and even, with flawless light distribution. With the misaligned projectors, it totally threw everything off and reminded me of poor lighting from those HID kits in halogen housings. There were hot and dead spots in lighting through out the two projector's beam patterns.

The cut off line shouldn't be completely straight from left to right. Each projector will have an obvious step on their cut off beams, a total of two, but there should be a total of ONLY ONE STEP when the projectors are aligned. That means there should be one straight line in the beam starting from the left, and as you go further to the right near the center (for LHD owners), there will be one step up about a few inches in height, and another straight line follows to the right end of the beam.

I spent one minute MISALIGNING my headlights for curiosity sake, spent a few days being annoyed at the horrid beam pattern also annoying others on the road, and about 30 minutes aligning my projectors back to perfect factory beam pattern. Definitely not worth it.

If you're going to adjust your damn headlights, adjust BOTH accordingly. Though chances are if you adjust them higher than factory spec, you will be blinding damn near everyone with at least your passenger projector.


Just because there have been too much misinformation posted in this thread already.

But, hey. Do whatever you want. Your car right? As long as you get what you want. Who cares of other drivers think you're the asshole blinding the s*** out of everyone. Much like those assholes with their highbeams on at all times or cheap misaligned HID kits in their halogen low beam housings.

 

[piotrek91]

SayNoToPistons,

I mostly agree with your two posts.
Back when I had my relatively low protege5 nothing annoyed me more than a car behind me lighting up the inside of my car. For some reason Toyota Rav4's and other CUV's seemed to be the worst offenders (in addition to anything lifted or trucks with aftermarket HID lights)

Having said that, the properly adjusted (according to the dealer) halogen headlights on my CX-5 did not provide adequate illumination of the road ahead when the car was fully unloaded. Adding some gear to the trunk lifted the cut-off enough to (almost) be acceptable, so now I always carry 100lbs of sand in my trunk (just kidding).

I definitely do not agree with you that a sharp cut-off is a requirement for a good headlight.
IMO it might actually be quite the opposite. Most cars with projector style lights provide way too much light up to the cut-off, resulting in a dark void right past the cut-off. This is especially an issue when hills are involved. A sharp cut-off also reduces the effectiveness of various reflective clothing, bicycle reflectors and roadside markers. Reflector headlights will reflect off those things at a distance much greater than a cut-off can be set to.

Lights with a sharp cut-off (especially HIDs) provide the illusion of better illumination by flooding the road relatively close to the car with light hurting the drivers ability to see hazards just above the cut-off. I do not need the road 100 feet from my car to be light up like a baseball stadium, but I need to be able to see the reflectors on the shoes of Mrs. iLikeToJogOnTheShoulderOfTheRoadAtNight from 300 feet away when approaching a small hill.

Having said all that.. adjusting the lights of my CX-5 up one whole turn resulted in the lights being too high and misaligned. I am still trying to find the sweet spot, and unfortunately that sweet spot will change as the car is loaded.

Many (most?) newer cars in Europe have a knob inside the car which allows the headlights to be adjusted depending on the load in the car:

BTW.. according to customer reports, the protg 5 has the best headlights of any car they tested (back in 2003). Better than HID's and projector style lights found on more expensive cars.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...the-Protege5-headlights-from-Consumer-Reports

 

[MikeM.]

SayNoToPistons,


I definitely do not agree with you that a sharp cut-off is a requirement for a good headlight.
IMO it might actually be quite the opposite. Most cars with projector style lights provide way too much light up to the cut-off, resulting in a dark void right past the cut-off.

The cut-off on a properly adjusted headlight is designed to keep offending light out of on-coming motorists eyes. That's why they are called "LOW" beams. Old school headlights were terrible at this. The fact that they bled a little light into the distance did very little to actually helping the driver see any great distance (light diminishes with the square of the distance).

I do not need the road 100 feet from my car to be light up like a baseball stadium, but I need to be able to see the reflectors on the shoes of Mrs. iLikeToJogOnTheShoulderOfTheRoadAtNight from 300 feet away when approaching a small hill.

Why? Are you in the habit of driving on the shoulder at night? I keep my vehicle between the lines unless I am going slow enough to see the shoulder I am about to pull onto. In any case, I find the HID projectors on the CX-5 do an awesome job of lighting the shoulders (far better than old school sealed beams ever did on low beam). No matter what kind of lights you have, you shouldn't be driving on the shoulder unless you are going slow enough to see potential pedestrians in time to avoid hitting them. And on high beam it is night/day difference from old school sealed beams. Huge improvement. I'm surprised anyone is complaining at all.

I am still trying to find the sweet spot, and unfortunately that sweet spot will change as the car is loaded.

I've found the self-leveling headlights to be worth their relatively high cost. The cut-off stays consistent regardless of how the vehicle is loaded. The same cannot be said of the many loaded pick-ups that nearly blind me as they approach with their low beams aimed for the sky.

 

[piotrek91]

No Mike, I do not drive on the shoulder, but sometimes the shoulder is narrow and I like to give people there some extra space.

I don't think I have ever driven a car with sealed beam headlights, so I wouldn't know how bad they are. (those are different from regular non sealed reflectors I assume??)

I am comparing the lights on the CX-5 to the lights on my old protg 5 which, according to customer reports had the best headlights of any car they tested. The reflectors on the protg 5 out performed many cars with HID's without causing glare. (the worst car in the test was an Audi TT with HID lights btw)

It looks like both you and pistons have the self leveling HID lights, which are probably very good, but the factory adjustment on the non HID projectors does not provide enough illumination to drive the speed limit at night without over-driving the lights, especially in hilly terrain. (of course the high beams fix the situation, but in many situations those can't be used)

 

[SayNoToPistons]

You are using a comparison done a decade ago on cars that are over a decade old in design. There is no doubt a MKI Audi's TT's projector low beam fitted with factory HID's are complete turds. Fortunately, HID's have come a long a long way since. The only cars with HID's a decade old that are comparable to the light output of the CX-5 are the S2K's single low beam and TL/TSX/FX with Bi-Xenon Stanley units. The TL/TSX/FX units are widely known as one of the best units to date.

Though admittedly, the CX-5 projector's cutoff step/slope is a bit much, resulting in a shorter beam throw for the driver side far left. Not a huge problem, as that only affects the far left shoulder, and anything straight from the road is properly lit by both projectors with a VERY wide and even beam.

As far as having a sharp cut off being ONE of the requirements of a good headlight. I still stand by that statement. It is a necessity in addition to a powerful, wide, long, and even beam. Now you're probably thinking any sharp cut off (no higher than a mid-size sedan's mirror) will result in complete darkness above the cutoff resulting in complete blindness for signs and backroads. Well to solve that, DOT requires all HID projectors to come with a slight flare of light above the cutoff. They are known as "squirrel finders".

Example of squirrel finders here:
http://i.imgur.com/jlw3tae.jpg


There really aren't much options to improve on the already phenomenal projector units of the CX-5's bi-xenon projectors. I believe the CX-5 might be using the typical 4100k Philips 85122 bulbs, especially being that they are still slightly off white in color. For 100-200 more lumen and a 4300k temperature, you can upgrade to the Philips 85122+ at around $100 a pair, which I have thought about doing. you also have the option of the pricier and slightly higher lumen Osram 66240 SVS/CBI bulbs.

 

[SayNoToPistons]

Here is a dissected CX-5 bi-xexnon projector. A rather advance and technological unit even when compared to modern bi-xenon projectors. It is a Stanley. A very compact one at that.

Cut off solenoid. Placed sideways, which is not the norm.

Highbeam

Comparison to an EDIX (RHD TL) projector, which is known as one of the best if not the best bi-xenon projector.

Results? Similarly GREAT output compared to the Edix, wider throw, and less light hot spotted.

 

[mrlegoman]

I'll bring this thread back form the dead. Not driving a CX-5, but having serious issue with the abrupt headlight cutoff on my wife's mazda3. Driving at night with the low beams is a nightmare. We are completely overdriving the headlights going faster then 45 mph. 30 feet in front of it is lite up like daylight. Anything after the cut is complete blackness. Rocks, tree limbs, frogs are completely unavoidable going faster then 40-45 mph with low beams. Dealership says the headlights are within factory spec. Great for driving around town, but worthless imo on the highway. My only hope on a highway where traffic is flowing 65-70 mph is to get behind someone, match their speed, and then hope they swerve is there is anything in the road.
I'm not asking for the headlights to point into oncoming traffic, I just want to be able to see something more then 30 feet in front of my in the road.

 

[paris1]

I'll bring this thread back form the dead. Not driving a CX-5, but having serious issue with the abrupt headlight cutoff on my wife's mazda3. Driving at night with the low beams is a nightmare. We are completely overdriving the headlights going faster then 45 mph. 30 feet in front of it is lite up like daylight. Anything after the cut is complete blackness. Rocks, tree limbs, frogs are completely unavoidable going faster then 40-45 mph with low beams. Dealership says the headlights are within factory spec. Great for driving around town, but worthless imo on the highway. My only hope on a highway where traffic is flowing 65-70 mph is to get behind someone, match their speed, and then hope they swerve is there is anything in the road.
I'm not asking for the headlights to point into oncoming traffic, I just want to be able to see something more then 30 feet in front of my in the road.

Did you bother to read the entire thread? See my posts #2 and 4 on first page. Adjusting the headlights up solves your problem.

 

[mrlegoman]

Did you bother to read the entire thread? See my posts #2 and 4 on first page. Adjusting the headlights up solves your problem.

:sigh: Yes, I've done my due diligence and did proceed to read the entire thread before posting. I was simply trying to state that even on our new 3, this issue still persists.

 

[MikeM.]

I was simply trying to state that even on our new 3, this issue still persists.

Take your Mazda3 to a shop that can adjust them properly because the issue you describe does not exist on properly adjusted headlights.

 

[hek8560]

I install TRS HID kits in my 2015 touring, it works great. The oem projector seems work fine with HID bulbs, if you really want better vision at night, it will be the way to go.

 

[Dee0121]

I recommend letting the experts do it because they have the proper equipment to get it done right the first time.

Agree MikeM - I'd like to have mine adjusted a smidge as well, but better left to the dealer. Taking it in for it's first maintenance April 9 so will ask then.

 

[halfast3]

Agree MikeM - I'd like to have mine adjusted a smidge as well, but better left to the dealer. Taking it in for it's first maintenance April 9 so will ask then.

Conceptually, this is a good idea thhough I fear you'll be told the adjustment is in spec. DIY adjustment is straightforward. Google headlight adjustment if you need help understanding the basics.

 

[fdew]

If you find a dealer or repair shop that will adjust headlights correctly, let us know. I have never found one. I adjust my own. If the car is loaded and they need readjustment, I readjust them.

 

[MikeM.]

Conceptually, this is a good idea thhough I fear you'll be told the adjustment is in spec.

If your fear turns out to be justified then you need to find a new service department because no competent tech is going to say "It's in spec" if it's only lighting up the road 10 feet in front of the car.

 

[MikeM.]

For those of you with the self-leveling HID headlights, check to make sure the ride height sensor isn't connected in reverse.

To test this, park at least 20 feet back from a vertical surface (this should work even if the ground is sloped) such that the headlight cut-off strikes anywhere on the vertical. Mark the cut-off line with a piece of masking tape. Then add about 100 lbs. to the trunk of the car and repeat the test. If the cut-off is now dramatically higher than your piece of tape, your load sensor is probably connected in reverse. It's a simple matter to reverse it and you might need a headlight adjustment as well.

Without going through the test procedure, you can come to the same conclusion if the light cut-off projects considerably further down the road when you have heavy items in the trunk. If trunk-weight does not change the distance your lights project, then you simply need a headlight adjustment. This test is only valid for vehicles with self-leveling headlights. All others need a headlight adjustment if you're not getting adequate projection at a distance.

My self leveling headlights came well adjusted and have not needed any further adjustments in the 3 1/2 years I've owned it. Load or no load, they provide really excellent lighting that I am thankful for, especially on narrow winding roads on dark, rainy nights.