Best oil and filter?

Engine oil, even in our 4 cylinder engines...most definitely sees temps of 500 degrees F...The sort of confusing issue with this is that almost every modern engine is STILL oil cooled...

At every compression stroke...the piston moves up towards TDC, carrying a film of oil on its oil ring...which very lightly coats the cylinder walls...During ignition and the downward expansion stroke, some of that oil remains 'unscraped' by the downward ring movement...and is exposed to the burning mixture...that is definitely 500 degrees, and possibly higher depending on a lot of things...the scraping action of the piston rings, or lack there of, is the main cause of increased oil consumption in the first place...which is why most engines that 'burn a lot of oil', aren't holding very good compression at the same time...

but...even having very small amounts of oil exposed to that insane heat...chemical properties of engine oil, namely the specific heat capacity, are designed to deal with this...small amount of oil spike up to 600 or so degrees, but the rest of the oil mass quickly cools it back down...the entire system is circulating just like the water cooling system...so you'll never have an entire system of oil at that temp...

a gauge will give an average oil temp...which measures the oil temp at a position in which its freely moving, and away from the chambers...an average temp of 250 degrees is completely normal...an average temp of 500 degrees...its over...but there are definitely 'hot spots' in the engine where the oil temp is far higher than what the gauge is seeing...

i'd also say...don't stick a cup of oil in an oven and see what happens...if it does ignite...there is almost nothing you can do with it...water on it will just make it worse...a chemical fire like that doesn't behave like normal, the oil is actually breaking down and releasing its own fuel (carbon, hydrogen, etc...all of which depend on the type of oil being tested, though)...so its not exactly easy to snuff out...and coating the inside of an oven used to cook food...with engine oil residue...probably isn't the best way to feed yourself and/or your family...
 
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yea its be bad idea to do it in household oven.

if you follow everpower's test, a small bowl under torch in ur backyard might be enough to tell if the oil you use is good enough or not.
 
^^definitely, outdoors it shouldn't be a problem. Starting a full blown oil fire in an oven isn't extremely likely at normal temps like 500 degrees, but if you'd forget and put it into that 1600 degree cleaning cycle like some ovens have...then you'd have a hell of a problem...I'd just say there are much easier and safer ways to test this stuff than a conventional indoor oven...like you just mentioned...
 
And don't use synthetic when it starts to burn it, switch to conventional as it won't burn it as fast



I have been using synthetic for as long as I owned my p5 about 100k. I had used it in my pathfinder for the 5 years before that so I thought it would be good for my 'new old mazda" (02 with 60k) but have since been finding a lot of people say that this car prefers frequent changes with Conventional oil. so far so good... the p5 never burns or losses any and I do change it at least every 5k miles.

On this thread both you and hotcracker69 suggest switching because of burning oil... but I always understood (going back 8-10 years now) that once you use synthetic you cant go back to conventional without engine problems.

I am interested to know more the suggestions to switch,is it safe ?

Only for engines burning oil ?

what benifits are there to go back ?
 
10-30 Castrol GTX and a WIX filter for a 2000 Mazda 626 (It's a little bigger but fits fine).

I've use this combo in all my Mazdas and have never had any kind of problem. IMO, synth is a waste of money if you change your oil regularly, which I do. No oil is better than clean oil.
 
I sure hope this was a typo...any oil is better than no oil

I think he meant that clean oil of any brand is better than neglected oil.

I have been using synthetic for as long as I owned my p5 about 100k. I had used it in my pathfinder for the 5 years before that so I thought it would be good for my 'new old mazda" (02 with 60k) but have since been finding a lot of people say that this car prefers frequent changes with Conventional oil. so far so good... the p5 never burns or losses any and I do change it at least every 5k miles.

On this thread both you and hotcracker69 suggest switching because of burning oil... but I always understood (going back 8-10 years now) that once you use synthetic you cant go back to conventional without engine problems.

I am interested to know more the suggestions to switch,is it safe ?

Only for engines burning oil ?

what benifits are there to go back ?

That is false. Different oils are completely miscible, there is no chance of damage from switching between them. You can even dump in half Dino and half synthetic, and not have a problem. We have a Corolla with 330k that has had synthetic and dino swapped in it several times. That engine is spotless inside and doesn't burn hardly any, aside from the valve seals. It did leak some, and we started using Maxlife High Mileage, and that considerably slowed them.

I have been using Valvoline Maxlife 10W-30 and Purolator Classic filters because they are cheap and made in the USA. Their Classic and Pureone filters are one of the best values in the market. Other filters in that price range aren't of comparable quality.
 
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haha (rofl)
I meant that no BRAND of oil is better than a good brand of clean oil that's just been put in the car. Some synthetic brands claim 7500-10,000 miles. nope
 
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5w or 10w oil ?

I have been using Valvoline Maxlife 10W-30 and Purolator Classic filters because they are cheap and made in the USA. Their Classic and Pureone filters are one of the best values in the market. Other filters in that price range aren't of comparable quality.

Much agreed on Purolator filters, I am in Southern Ontario and stock up when ever we go to NY.



So does everyone run 10w 30 all year round ? I know there was a chart for this is the manual but I cant find it.

I seem to remember Mazda recommended 5w 30 in colder months an 10 in warmer.... thoughts ?
 
Check your owner's manual, the Mazda Engineers put a nice little chart in there to tell you the weight of oil to run depending on temperature.
 
Check your owner's manual, the Mazda Engineers put a nice little chart in there to tell you the weight of oil to run depending on temperature.

I know there was a chart for this is the manual,it was clearly stated... the discussion here is about what people actually use and find is good in the real world.

oh wait a minute you are the bright one that misread a previous post as well to post " no oil is better" blah bla blah, when its obvious he actually meant nothing will beat clean oil.

So shameful, you dont have a P5 and to not be adding something to the discussion rather you are just looking to post bs to advertise for your crap tools you have been trying to sadly hawk for almost 5 years.(wow)
 
I'm glad you would think a public forum would know better than the Engineers that designed and built the motor. Run whatever oil you want, its your car and your money. But please don't be such a tool when people are trying to help you. And, I may not have a P5, but do have an MP3, which has the exact same motor just in case you didn't know that...not that it matters in this case, since all owner's manuals will tell you exactly which grade of oil to run. But, I forgot, you think a public forum is a better source of info than the Engineers who designed the car.

PS - Those tools are long gone
 
Discussion of oil & filter people actually use and find is good

I never said or would suggest to use a forum is better or to use it over the manual ....That is dumber than No oil is better lol !!!

You are either making up this crap in your posts and keep repeating about the manual... if you can't follow the topic, you are not helping by spewing useless crap.

PS Coool you updated your signature now... I still see one big useless tool in your post !!
 
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Much agreed on Purolator filters, I am in Southern Ontario and stock up when ever we go to NY.



So does everyone run 10w 30 all year round ? I know there was a chart for this is the manual but I cant find it.

I seem to remember Mazda recommended 5w 30 in colder months an 10 in warmer.... thoughts ?

My thoughts are that Mazda recommends 5W-30 in colder temps. It doesn't get that cold here so I just run 10W-30 all year.

A block heater is a lot more beneficial to your engine when it gets downright nipply than thinner oil. Plus you get heat right away.
 
everything cost more here in Ontario

i just switched to Mobil synthetic 5w30, 4L for 30+_CAD in Canadiantire

walmart start sell it for 28.88CAD not long ago

K&N pro series on Aamazon.ca is 10.36CAD or mobil108 $10+_ when on sale in Canadiantire
 
Been using 5W-30 here in N. Florida since I purchased my P5 in May of 2010. It's been fine for me...no issues with the engine (that I know of :) ).
 

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