What have you done to your MSP today?

I don't mind removing the turbo again, I just want it to make boost. (Full story of the car so we are on the same page: Purchased car with blown motor, 110k. Swapped JY motor and reinstalled turbo, car runs great no vac leaks and very smooth just will not push boost. Ebay fmic kit and relocated maf with no apparent leaks.) There was oil in the hot pipe and a small pool in the intake when I first pulled it because it would not build boost.

You can tell from the pics the turbine wheel is not damaged, the blades and the housing are perfect. I can try another wastegate actuator but it definitely has a good amount of tension on the wg flap, it takes some force to move it. What can cause a turbo to blow oil and not build boost? I assume it would be the seals inside the center cartridge behind the compressor wheel. Is there anything else it could be?

I would like to believe this turbo is ok, PO said the car pushed 8psi all day but I purchased it from another guy who only had it long enough to put 1k miles on it (and blow it up). Hard to believe the turbo and motor could both be bad. No shrapnel made it through the engine when the #1 rod snapped, the head and manifolds were fine so no particles could have damaged the turbine wheel as far as I know.
Just buy another CHRA. I know its about $690.00 but I think its worth it, that way u start fresh with a new turbo Nd don't have to worry about it breaking down in the future.
 
Does anyone else have a weird harmonic noise from the rear tires/wheels while driving? This is my second MSP and I have the same problem with both cars. It's a constant hummmmm, quiet, hummmmm, quiet. Just curious if anyone has had the same problem and knows how to fix it.
 
Does anyone else have a weird harmonic noise from the rear tires/wheels while driving? This is my second MSP and I have the same problem with both cars. It's a constant hummmmm, quiet, hummmmm, quiet. Just curious if anyone has had the same problem and knows how to fix it.
No, but every time I get a full alignment the say the rear camber is off on the protege and it can not be adjusted with out a aftermarket part. I've had three and they said the same thing.
 
Just buy another CHRA. I know its about $690.00 but I think its worth it, that way u start fresh with a new turbo Nd don't have to worry about it breaking down in the future.

I can rebuild for about $100 or go used for $250. Not spending that much unless I am upgrading to a larger turbo.
 
I just slapped a front lip for now till I find the oem lip fixed my codes and slapped a new o2 sensor added a hks bov and order a shortshifter and I need new motor mounts. Any one in her know of some good after market mounts since I'm new to the mazda scene don't know alot of after market parts for the speed protege
 
I just slapped a front lip for now till I find the oem lip fixed my codes and slapped a new o2 sensor added a hks bov and order a shortshifter and I need new motor mounts. Any one in her know of some good after market mounts since I'm new to the mazda scene don't know alot of after market parts for the speed protege
I have AWR mounts. I like them, they absorb vibration quite well.
 
Oh k kool thanks I thing awr if I'm correct has there shop 10 mins away from my house if its awr racing
 
I can rebuild for about $100 or go used for $250. Not spending that much unless I am upgrading to a larger turbo.
How are you rebuilding the CHRA of the GT2554R? Source for parts? If so, I'll just rebuild the center housing and install new implellars.
 
Did he replace the bearing cartridge and all, or just the O-rings?
 
Not sure, the rebuild kits are from $150-200 and they are not garrett parts. I don't know if I should trust potentially inferior parts going into a turbo. And it would need to be balanced before being installed on the car.
 
Did he replace the bearing cartridge and all, or just the O-rings?
Replaced piston rings and seals, bearings were fine.
Not sure, the rebuild kits are from $150-200 and they are not garrett parts. I don't know if I should trust potentially inferior parts going into a turbo. And it would need to be balanced before being installed on the car.
Part of the reason I haven't made my findings on the forums public yet is because I need to test how successful I am by putting the turbo on a car and driving.
 
I can get turbo's balanced for $35 locally, so that's not that big of a deal for me. But it wouldn't matter if the bearing/cartridge can't be replaced. It would cost me more than what I can get a used unit for, though when it's all said and done. I'd have to get impellers, too. I'd like to be able to do something with my two OEM units, but I don't really think there is much use for them.
 
Replaced piston rings and seals, bearings were fine.

Well, that answers my question.

He ''resealed'' it.

I guess, as long as you caught the failure early, this would suffice. Bur for someone who has had a "catastrophic" failure, you're S.O.L.
 
IMG_20150427_191613.jpg


Edit: Amazing what clay baring, polishing and waxing will do...
 
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My best run from Sunday. Not bad for a super high mileage motor that is almost bone stock and all season tires.
 

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