Tall 2nd gear?

it's not that 2nd gear is tall. It's more that 1st gear is ridiculously short. On a track or mountain roads it's simply way too much of a bother to shift down to first unless you're barely moving. I think the only way to deal with it that's within reason is to get stickier tires/reinforce your balls to maximize entry speed so you don't fall out of the power band in the first place.

On the plus side though the 2 has no problem climbing car park ramps which where I live can reach up to 25 degrees.
 
Sorry, but I have never seen anyone complain about a brand new, highly praised car as much as you do. Did you even bother to go on a test drive? It's a 100hp hatchback, not a sports car. What did you expect when you bought it? I've only owned mine for 4 months, and have no problem with the way it drives, or how anything is situated. (dunno)
 
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Well, you can always try the Mirage. You can get a supercharger kit for it too.
 
The Mirage's 2nd gear doesn't seem as out of place as the 2's, but if you think the 2's power plant is anemic, it's got nothing on the hamster wheel powering the Mitsu. :p

I was pretty bummed about 2nd until I got the tune. Now it actually feels like there's some torque in there.
 
When I tried out my new 2014 2, I warned the saleslady. She directed me to an empty parking lot where I tried sweeping turns and slalom maneuvers as I intended to autocross the car. Saleslady and my wife in the car.

If they want to sell the car, they will help you.
 
I only really notice it on uphills, with my larger winter rolling stock. I'd have to suppose that the severe shortness of 1st gear contributes to a false feeling of slowness in 2nd. Can't say I particularly mind, as it makes my other car feel like lightning.
 
Just yesterday I spent 30 minutes in stop and go traffic. I noticed that if I short shifted into 2nd, it had no low-end torque and other cars could pull in front of me. I needed to rev it up to 3000 or 4000 to accelerate well. As soon as traffic cleared, I cranked it up well past 5000 in 2nd. That's where this motor shines. I think Mazda optimized the gearbox for autocross, with 2nd being the primary gear. The 1st to 2nd hesitation is annoying at times, but that's cured with the proper tune.
 
Isn't the fix to this 1-2 shift problem an ECU reflash? (say, from Dynotronics or something) $300 or so, right?

Just do it already.
 
While I agree the 1st-to-2nd shift is far from ideal, for the time being, the problem is not serious enough to warrant a fix. (The shifting and clutch vagueness due to the ultra soft rear engine mount, however, is.) Perhaps as soon as I take the car out for an autox or a track day, my opinion will change, and I will need to get on top of this ECU update.

For my purposes, however, I would definitely say that wheels and tires upgrade are in the plans, as is the ECU reflash. As a matter of fact, for the time being, I would even place the ECU update ahead of suspension upgrades.
 
Isn't the fix to this 1-2 shift problem an ECU reflash? (say, from Dynotronics or something) $300 or so, right?

Just do it already.

Not sure it's $300, but another 700 rpm(Redline at 7200), and a little Dynotronics magic, knocks almost a half second off 0-60.
 
I just had an idea today. Have your local dealer check your variable valve capability. This should kick in when you hit second, and if isn't working your experience would suck. It can be difficult to tell if it is working right or not without the right equipment.
 
(peep)
Sorry, but I have never seen anyone complain about a brand new, highly praised car as much as you do. Did you even bother to go on a test drive? It's a 100hp hatchback, not a sports car. What did you expect when you bought it? I've only owned mine for 4 months, and have no problem with the way it drives, or how anything is situated. (dunno)

**Kicks self for not buying a speed3**
 
I just had an idea today. Have your local dealer check your variable valve capability. This should kick in when you hit second, and if isn't working your experience would suck. It can be difficult to tell if it is working right or not without the right equipment.

If the VVT isn't working right it would be setting CELs. It will do so when the commanded can angle doesn't match the actual can angle within a degree or two for a short amount of time. They are also continuously variable and constantly changes based on load/rpm in all gears, its not like two positions where you get a kick of speed like older Honda VTEC systems(which the ones that are performance oriented actually change valve lift and timing, not just timing).


(peep)

**Kicks self for not buying a speed3**

I have a friend with a Speed3 and I honestly have way more fun autocrossing my 2. Its so much more basic and a more engaged driving experience. The Speeds are just too damn front heavy for me to really enjoy.
 
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Isn't the fix to this 1-2 shift problem an ECU reflash? (say, from Dynotronics or something) $300 or so, right?

How does an ECU tune fix the gear ratio of the first gear in a car with a manual transmission? Seems like one's butt dyno would have to be really suffering from the wishful-thinkings for this to be true. I'm all ears/eyes if I'm missing something.
 
How does an ECU tune fix the gear ratio of the first gear in a car with a manual transmission? Seems like one's butt dyno would have to be really suffering from the wishful-thinkings for this to be true. I'm all ears/eyes if I'm missing something.

More torque so it doesn't completely bog down when shifting.

My 2 isn't tuned yet, but this was exactly what I experienced when my 09 Mazda3 2.0l was tuned by Dynotronics. It helps greatly with low end torque once the timing is advanced to take advantage of 91+ octane.


Also if you raise the limiter then you will end up a bit higher in the range in the 1-2 shift so that can help too for full on WOT shifts.
 

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