Door Lock Button - Is there an option to Add a Backlight?

Interesting the EU model doesn't have the door lock switch, just power windows and power windows lockout maybe I cannot see it from the picture.
You are right. There is no door lock button for us in the EU and there no option to get the car to auto lock itself when driving. Also only the driver's window switch is illuminated on the driver side and the passenger window switch on the front passenger side.
 
How about using switches from other cars? There size should be pretty standard, no? On my previous car-VW Golf v- all the buttons were illuminated with red lights(LEDs !?).
 
Z0RrO did it on post #17. Also interesting to know that the EU model look like it has all the switch light up but in fact only the driver window switch control is lit.
 
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It is not simply a "missing led". This no transparency in the plastic panel and switches for an LED to shine through other than the driver's window switch.

I checked my 2014.5 yesterday and it is obvious that the door switch on both front door has translucent icons. So I do think it is possible to backlight the door switch. The window switches don't have icons but there might be a way to illuminate the recessed part to give it a glow so you know where to put your finger.
 
The window switches don't have icons but there might be a way to illuminate the recessed part to give it a glow so you know where to put your finger.

As far as I'm concerned, I don't care about the other window switch. I only want to add blacklight the door lock switch.
 
I took a look at the circuit board and there is indeed a footprint for a 0805 LED. I wired up a red LED to it and everything seem to work fine. In addition to the LED, you need a 1/2 watt 1210 resistor (I used 600 ohms) and some wires for soldering. Since the traces on the board go to unpopulated connector pins, I had to run power and ground form elsewhere on the board.

The interior LED color is actually amber/orange so I might order new LEDs and replace it. It's not dark enough to take a good picture when I leave work, but I'll try to get a pic up later.

20140421_151730.jpg
 
Nice work. I will do it myself, but these switches have translucent icons? If they have, I will make all of them, maybe switch out the temperature control LEDs(if they are LEDs) too with different color. Need to figure out what color.
 
Since the traces on the board go to unpopulated connector pins, I had to run power and ground form elsewhere on the board[/IMG]

Can you show us a picture of where you take your power and ground. Where did you inserted your resistor ? Thanks
 
The interior LED color is actually amber/orange so I might order new LEDs and replace it. It's not dark enough to take a good picture when I leave work, but I'll try to get a pic up later.
I have red and blue 0805's but no amber. I do have some amber T1's though. Having had this apart, do you think there's enough vertical space to get one of those in if I flatten the leads down as much as possible?

Else, it's off to digikey I go :)
 
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I have red and blue 0805's but no amber. I do have some amber T1's though. Having had this apart, do you think there's enough vertical space to get one of those in if I flatten the leads down as much as possible?

Else, it's off to digikey I go :)

I don't think the T1 will work. The mechanical parts of the button is pretty tall, but it is pretty tight in there. Also, the 0805 is covered by part of the rubber push button contacts and will require cutting.

FYI, the red LEDs I have are rate for 104mcd at 20mA which I think is almost too bright compared to the power window LED. Something rated between 60 and 90mcd or lowering the current on a brighter one would make it match better.

Also, as much as I like Digikey, you might find Mouser to be better for small personal orders since they usually have a lower price on parts and provide cheaper USPS shipping.

20140422_075458.jpg
 
FYI, the red LEDs I have are rate for 104mcd at 20mA which I think is almost too bright compared to the power window LED. Something rated between 60 and 90mcd or lowering the current on a brighter one would make it match better.

That 20mA would be the max rated current, and in such a poorly serviceable area you want a big safety margin. I would personally run it at 5-10mA, so long as the resistor doesn't dissipate too much heat.

And FWIW, I much prefer Mouser. MUCH better search, order management, etc. and far better international shipping.
 
Can you show us a picture of where you take your power and ground. Where did you inserted your resistor ? Thanks

A dedicated resistor footprint is on the back side: (to the left of where the green wire terminates, you can see I paralleled two 1/4 watt resistors)
20140422_092417.jpg


Ground is the green wire to the nearest connector. Yellow wire goes to the other connector. I have marked where the yellow wire goes in this picture:
20140422_100851.jpg


The way I wired the yellow wire is pretty hard to do since it requires soldering to a VIA point. Alternatively, you can solder a wire between the pins marked by yellow and pink in the above picture. You will see that the pin marked by the pink box has no wires populated on the harness side.
 
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That 20mA would be the max rated current, and in such a poorly serviceable area you want a big safety margin. I would personally run it at 5-10mA, so long as the resistor doesn't dissipate too much heat.

And FWIW, I much prefer Mouser. MUCH better search, order management, etc. and far better international shipping.

Actually, the one I'm using is tested at 20mA and has an ABS max of 30mA DC current. (OSRAM LS R976-NR-1) I just wanted to point out the brightness so someone doesn't order a 2mcd LED and be really disappointed.

I'll likely reduce the current as well depending on what replacement LEDs I get.
 
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Actually, the one I'm using is tested at 20mA and has an ABS max of 30mA DC current. (OSRAM LS R976-NR-1) I just wanted to point out the brightness so someone doesn't order a 2mcd LED and be really disappointed.

I'll likely reduce the current as well depending on what replacement LEDs I get.

Check check.
 
I don't think the T1 will work. The mechanical parts of the button is pretty tall, but it is pretty tight in there. Also, the 0805 is covered by part of the rubber push button contacts and will require cutting.

FYI, the red LEDs I have are rate for 104mcd at 20mA which I think is almost too bright compared to the power window LED. Something rated between 60 and 90mcd or lowering the current on a brighter one would make it match better.

Also, as much as I like Digikey, you might find Mouser to be better for small personal orders since they usually have a lower price on parts and provide cheaper USPS shipping.
OK, thanks! And appreciate the mcd estimates, though I often find that perceived brightness is very much non-linear. Looking at the photo, I would guess your door lock LED is actually running 4 to 6 (or even 8) times the mcd's of the window one. But really good to know the values you used to base the estimates off. Thanks again.

As for Mouser vs. Digikey, I shop at both. I usually find Digikey is best for small orders, since their entry shipping price (via mail) is ~$3 (vs. $5-$6 for Mouser) and prices are often lower (example, just bought some Phillips 3535 white LEDs: Digikey=46c, Mouser=57c). However, Mouser does have some things that Digikey doesn't (and probably vice versa), and some items are cheaper at Mouser too, though the shipping often eclipses that. Can't speak for international shipping though :)

Oh, and nice soldering!
 
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Alternatively, you can solder a wire between the pins marked by yellow and pink in the above picture. You will see that the pin marked by the pink box has no wires populated on the harness side.

You could just add a loopback wire on the harness side between the pink and yellow pin.

What is the voltage between your green and yellow pin ?
 
I have noticed the same thing as RedBaron about Digikey and Mouser. Digikey has something like, $2.75 shipping with first class mail USPS.
Why not just replace all LEDs, with the same type and then there is no mismatch problems.
 
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