What did you pay for your CX-5?

2014.5 CX-5 Touring AWD
Deep Crystal Blue
Bose / Moonroof
Carpet floormats (not sure if option or std equipment)
No special servicing agreements / extras

$25,500 before TTL

Wanted heated seats, but the GT cost was just absurd. Might just throw in some after market ones. This thread helped me immensely in figuring out what a 'reasonable' price was.
 
Thank you .. I've looked at trueCar and the low price paid for my area is 21,887 , the average 22,102 and the high 22,225 (including destination fee).

I am looking at the 2014 FWD 6spd MT . Sticker price was 21,499 (MSRP is 22,190- 691 discount). Then I guess they threw in another (275).

The price before any extras (TTL) is 21,223. Looking at it without any extras it appears to be a decent deal compared to the numbers on Truecar. Any thoughts ?
Thank you in advance.

for a 2014, that is not a very good deal. run truecar for a 2015 and see what the difference is. remember, when you go to trade it later, you will have an extra year of depreciation deducted from the tradein value. that's at least 15%.
 
for a 2014, that is not a very good deal. run truecar for a 2015 and see what the difference is. remember, when you go to trade it later, you will have an extra year of depreciation deducted from the trade in value. that's at least 15%.

The 2015 runs for 22,254 on truecar . I see what you mean . They told me that when we come in we can talk about final numbers.
 
Rule one- Understand that salespeople are there to extract as much money as possible from you. The less contact you make with them, the better. They will try to to get personal, be friendly, to get you off guard. Don't let that happen!
Rule two- do not negotiate with them! Get quotes from different dealers. If you go into a dealer, it should be with an emailed contract and a cashier check to take delivery.
Rule three- don't assume that buyer's services like Costco will deliver the best deal- they won't! A coworker came in bragging about how costco got her a car at invoice. Uh huh. She also spent $800 on window etching and doc fees! Way to get screwed!
Rule four- don't "think of a price you'll be happy with " for a new car. That's just plain stupid! You want the lowest price possible! Most people buy gas from the cheapest station, fly on the cheapest flight,etc. It makes no sense to suddenly ditch this frugality and spend 1000's more on a car!
Rule five- don't play their games! I emailed the local dealer that I would not pay $800 in doc fees and window etching last week. They responded that the offer was final. Whatever... they sent an email today saying that they will discount further. No, I know they won't drop those fees totally; they will likely drop them a little. In other words, instead of overcharging me by $900, they will overcharge maybe by $600. Sorry, no thanks.
Rule six- don't be afraid to travel. I have flown out of state many times to buy a vehicle and saved hundreds, even thousands.
Rule seven- Never be rushed into anything! Look at the numbers, think them over. Again, you are better off crunching numbers at home in front of your computer than in some sleazy salesmanager's office.
Rule eight- When people say they had a great buying experience, assume that they got screwed over and they didn't notice it. Look, have you ever thought that buying a cart a groceries was a "pleasant buying experience"? Buying a car should be no more than spending an hour at a dealer signing the forms and handing over a check.
Rule eight- don't get a leftover model unless you get a HUGE discount. As soon as you drive that '14 off the lot, it becomes one year old. Gonna keep for five years? Great. If it gets totaled or stolen next week, be prepared to get a lot less from the insurance company than you thought.
Rule nine- don't fall in love with the new car! In five years, it will probably look worn and less than lovely. Look at it like a commodity,
 
(iagree) Immediate red flag is "we'll talk final numbers" when you come in. Nope. Never would do that. That's when they give you the bums rush. Have the number settled before getting there (in writing/email with everything -- all additional fees that make up the final price line itemed.)

Their idea of getting you in is you'll love the car so you will be more pliable, they'll give a sob story on their costs (overhead, employees, whatever), it won't be so easy for you to escape to another dealer, or you'll be so fed up with shopping you'll give in. Ever wonder why the sales guy and the finance guy are different in dealerships? The sales guy's job is to get you to the finance guy's table so he can hit you up for more money. Get you in the door in essence. That's what they are telling you by saying they'll talk final numbers when you get there. Don't play that game.
 
Thank you very much for the advices guys , it is much appreciated . I emailed them this morning to get an itemized quote for the car out the door. Still waiting for the responses.
 
(iagree) Immediate red flag is "we'll talk final numbers" when you come in. Nope. Never would do that. That's when they give you the bums rush. Have the number settled before getting there (in writing/email with everything -- all additional fees that make up the final price line itemed.)

Their idea of getting you in is you'll love the car so you will be more pliable, they'll give a sob story on their costs (overhead, employees, whatever), it won't be so easy for you to escape to another dealer, or you'll be so fed up with shopping you'll give in. Ever wonder why the sales guy and the finance guy are different in dealerships? The sales guy's job is to get you to the finance guy's table so he can hit you up for more money. Get you in the door in essence. That's what they are telling you by saying they'll talk final numbers when you get there. Don't play that game.

i think they respect you more when you do this. saves them time.

first thing i say to the finance guy is 'no extras'. i'm in and out in 10 minutes.
 
That's part of the info they sent me : I got couple quotes from Texas which is not a bad drive just waiting for the detailed quotes and then go from there and see the lowest price before the fees are added.One of the quote in TX was for 20,685 before fees and TTL then 22,365 OTD . Waiting for the detailed quote on that.
2014 Mazda CX-5 Oklahoma City, OK
MSRP $22,190
Discount $691
Our Price $21,499
Color:Gray
Engine:2.0L 4 cyls
Transmission:Manual 6-Speed
Odometer:2 mi.
Body Style:FWD SUV (4 Door)
As Low As 0.9% APR
 
That's part of the info they sent me : I got couple quotes from Texas which is not a bad drive just waiting for the detailed quotes and then go from there and see the lowest price before the fees are added.One of the quote in TX was for 20,685 before fees and TTL then 22,365 OTD . Waiting for the detailed quote on that.
2014 Mazda CX-5 Oklahoma City, OK
MSRP $22,190
Discount $691
Our Price $21,499
Color:Gray
Engine:2.0L 4 cyls
Transmission:Manual 6-Speed
Odometer:2 mi.
Body Style:FWD SUV (4 Door)
As Low As 0.9% APR
That's not what I mean by line itemed. Hopefully they gave you a better breakdown. That (MSRP, discount, financing) is just a sales pitch.

I'd expect to see:
VIN# (Necessary. you want to make sure you're talking about the exact same car. There are consumer protection laws about bait/switch and you can look up more specific details on the vehicle on Mazda's site with this)
Car Price (who cares about MSRP or discount, you just want the final price -- it they want to make it sound like a great deal, fine but that doesn't matter)
Tax
Title
Registration
Destination Fees (if any)
Document Fees (if any)
and then a total showing exactly how much you'd have to bring to walk out the door (which should be the simple math of everything above)

Then you can see if they're trying to screw you with extras, useless service plans, etc. When going there, tell them that's all (total!) you plan to come in with so it better be accurate or no sale.

Also, if you have a better price in a state over, tell the local dealer you have a price at another dealership (you don't have to mention the state) and they need to match it to make the sale. You may not even have to even travel as most dealers would rather make the sale and match the price.
 
I'd expect to see:
VIN# (Necessary. you want to make sure you're talking about the exact same car. There are consumer protection laws about bait/switch and you can look up more specific details on the vehicle on Mazda's site with this)


Oh, along with that, get the mileage on the car being sold. Sounds silly, but do it. Yours ago, a dealer called me to say that they had the car I wanted with the price I wanted. Great, i scampered to the dealer like a dumb lemming and the car was a used current model, with 7,000 miles. They could easily do that with a '14 model.
Car dealers are scammers. They live off a model that preys on lack of price competition, and feasts off the act of getting consumers to negotiate against themselves. That is one reason why N.J. won't let Tesla run dealerships there; dealers protested. Ideally, you'd be able to order your car off the 'net, bypass dealer profit/greed.
So, the best way to deal with this is as i said before, deal from the keyboard, not from a "sales manager" office. Of course, if you want, you can go to the dealer and put up with the same shenanigans that they pulled back in the 50's, maybe you can get the salesperson play good cop/bad cop with the salesmanager.
Lot of good info here. Just remember, a lot of people spend more time and effort to save a few pennies on a gallon of gas, yet have no problem spending $500-$2,000 too much on a car. Don't be like those people.
Currently, the best quote I have gotten for a '15 cx5 grand touring with awd, tech and mica white paint is $30,273. I have not requested a specific listing of costs as I am still looking. After a few days, I'll ask dealer (s) for listing of costs, then pick one to buy. I'll email the dealer to send me a contract, I'll travel with a cashiers check, buy it, drive home.
 
Thanks for all the good advice on this thread.

I've been casually looking for a Soul Red GT w/Tech for a few months. I've given up waiting for a diesel, I'm giving my 2002 Tribute to my son for college this summer.

Anyway, I contacted a dealer up in LA who has a 2014 Red GT w/Tech, and most of all options I want. Their offer is $1000 below invoice price of the car and all options (more than $2K off MSRP). (They also itemized all the tax, title, registration, etc.) I have the VIN number, and all other info.

The only issue, it is definitely a 2014, not a 2014.5. It has the gated shifter. The 'ship' date is listed as 10-18-2013, probably one of the last ones made before switching to the 2014.5.

I'm a bit torn. I really don't have a strong feeling, one way or the other, about the gated vrs. straight shift. My only real concern is the safety additions that were a part of the 2014.5 update, and the fact that the battery has probably lost a good part of it's life sitting on a lot for several months without being driven. (Oh, it has 8 miles on the odometer).

I would appreciate any comments, etc. Waiting for a 2015 (or ordering one) is fine, time wise, but I'm not sure of the cost, as I"m sure these are discounted pretty heavily and the 2015's, though exactly the same as the 2014.5's, will not be as discounted for a couple of months.

Thanks in advance!
 
So this is what they sent me in response to my request ,still waiting on the response from the 3 other dealers(another OKC and 2 from TX):

OKC Mazda dealer :
VIN# JM3KE2BE7E0385876
Car Price 21,200
Tax (3.25%) : 689
Title: 11
Registration: 91
Document Fees (if any) 299

For a total of 22,290 OTD which is not much better than the previous deal they had going on .
 
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In northern NJ...

2014.5 AWD CX-5 Grand Touring
Crystal White ($200 upgrade)
Roof rack ($250 upgrade)

$27,425 before TTL

Lease, 36 mo, 12k/yr: $339, nothing down

How did I do?
 
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2015s are out now. i'm being told 1000 off MSRP in my area for a GT AWD. i would need about a 5000 discount to consider a 2014 model.
 
In northern NJ...

2014 AWD CX-5 Grand Touring
Crystal White ($200 upgrade)
Roof rack ($250 upgrade)

$27,425 before TTL

Lease, 36 mo, 12k/yr: $339, nothing down

How did I do?

did you at least get a kiss before they...
 
Really, $5k? I shopped this around for a while. Three dealerships told me the price I ended up with was impossible, and the only one that had it in stock told me $330 with $1,500 down.

Edited original to add it's a 2014.5, if it makes a difference.
 
at this point, the 1st year depreciation is already done in respect to trading or selling the car when you are done with it. same story if it is totaled. if you buy a 2014 now, you're starting in on year 2 for depreciation.

just google 'cost of ownership mazda cx-5'.

2014/2014.5 seems to be a mazda only thing - i don't think it will apply in the real world.
 
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But it's a lease. If I'm not taking the purchase option, does it really matter? I just ran the 2015 numbers at $1k under msrp like you said, with doc fee and TTL I'd be $25 to $30 higher on my monthly, at least.
 
But it's a lease. If I'm not taking the purchase option, does it really matter? I just ran the 2015 numbers at $1k under msrp like you said, with doc fee and TTL I'd be $25 to $30 higher on my monthly, at least.

if you are certain you are not going to buy it at the end, no.

the only standard feature that was added for 2015 was the advanced keyless entry on the touring and GT.
 
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