What have you done to your MSP today?

I'm assuming you are talking about the vacuum reference line for the AFC? I found a grommet in the firewall that I poked a hole through, i'm sure that's what everyone else does.
 
It's just on the passenger side of the firewall down low. You are going to have to get a little creative and find a spot, some people shove it through where the wiring harness goes.
 
Someone had installed (and then uninstalled) an AFC before I bought mine. They had used the wiring harness and just cut a slit in the grommet. I re-used the same hole. It's been that way for over a year now and no issues.
 
So, other than a tuning issue I only have a P0850 to deal with now. It was caused by a bad ground and resulted in a ground getting cooked to the neutral switch. I bought an engine harness but it was from a car without ABS, so I opted not to use it and have decided to just repair mine. It's been raining the past couple of days and with an open diff and 15psi on summer tires, traction is non-existent.

Okay, I can only assume that I'm overloading the MAF. I can't not code a P0103 when going WOT. It happens every ******* time and it's getting annoying. I remember dealing with this a couple of winters ago, but don't ever remember it coding. Thoughts?
 
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Someone had installed (and then uninstalled) an AFC before I bought mine. They had used the wiring harness and just cut a slit in the grommet. I re-used the same hole. It's been that way for over a year now and no issues.

Same routing I used.
 
Realized this morning in 20 degree weather when leaving for work and already late that I left my HVAC control head cables disconnected and didn't feel like driving the 8 or the Explorer, so had to reach under the dash and manually adjust the blend doors.

Also, I've got a coil that's failed on me. After replacing that coil, reconnecting the blend door cables, I should be finished for a while. I have a decent tune with my 440s. I've always heard complaints about idling issues with them, but no complaints here.
 
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Every time I log in and see Preferio on the newest post in this thread I click on it and assume he's broken another engine.
 
Anyways...

I picked up some pva sprayable clay, normally used for this purpose, and began slowly sculpting a radiator grill. Only have been working on the bottom part so far. Haven't had too much time lately to work on it though :/ Lot's of time spent just laying clay down and getting thickness the same throughout. When it's done I'll wax/pva/gelcoat/fiberglass it to make a mold. Then, I'll lay carbon fiber in it to create my finished product :) High hopes.

1508145_10202755348868689_68032723_n_zpsb07c5cc0.jpg
 
Anyways...

I picked up some pva sprayable clay, normally used for this purpose, and began slowly sculpting a radiator grill. Only have been working on the bottom part so far. Haven't had too much time lately to work on it though :/ Lot's of time spent just laying clay down and getting thickness the same throughout. When it's done I'll wax/pva/gelcoat/fiberglass it to make a mold. Then, I'll lay carbon fiber in it to create my finished product :) High hopes.

1508145_10202755348868689_68032723_n_zpsb07c5cc0.jpg

possible GB for fellow protg owners?
 
Every time I log in and see Preferio on the newest post in this thread I click on it and assume he's broken another engine.
It's not as though it's unwarranted.

Edit: So, replaced the coil and it runs perfectly, but my tune is excessively rich. It buries my wideband at 10.0, but I'm no longer getting a P0103. I'd like to get in the 11.5-12AFR range.
 
You do all tuning with the Split Second and R4? I'm assuming you datalog runs?

Yes, but I don't have my datalogging feature connected at the moment. The wires are literally laying on top of one another in my passenger floorboard. I'll probably do that on lunch so that I can record the data.
 
Yes, but I don't have my datalogging feature connected at the moment. The wires are literally laying on top of one another in my passenger floorboard. I'll probably do that on lunch so that I can record the data.

Good luck on the tuning. It's a slow process, took me about 30 hours over a 6 month period to dial in my microtech tune on the road. Now it's pretty clean 11.3-11.8 in boost and 14.5-15.2 in cruise. I learned so much doing it. Now I understand why shops charge so much.
 
Good luck on the tuning. It's a slow process, took me about 30 hours over a 6 month period to dial in my microtech tune on the road. Now it's pretty clean 11.3-11.8 in boost and 14.5-15.2 in cruise. I learned so much doing it. Now I understand why shops charge so much.
I had a decent tune before (11.4-12.4, but a spike to 13), but I've made some modifications that required retuning it. It's a PITA to do, but necessary. I didn't have datalogging before either, so it made the process that much more difficult. I am currently using one of the premade maps from the SSAFC thread and plan on tweaking from there. That's normally what I do. I'll try a few different maps until I find one that puts me close to where I want to be, then start making small adjustments until I reach my desired AFRs. I can't imagine having to start from scratch and tune it.

I can tell a huge difference with my AFRs being so rich. There's power there, but you just can't use it.
 
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