Come one, Come all, gander at my new moneypit of a P5!

[esnave09]

Yeah, I was gonna say the MSP exhaust is a good mod! I'm planning on it in the next few months too. As for my header, I don't know what brand mine is honestly. There's no marking on it and the PO didn't know what brand it was either. I was planning on getting https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned) until I saw the header that I got, but there are cheaper ones on Amazon and eBay like https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned), which coincidentally looks a lot like mine (maybe that's it?). You're gonna want to do the non-fouler O2 sensor trick since you're removing your primary cat.

Just stuff to keep in mind.

 

[seventystangfan]

I am quite sure what you meant was, '...consider is painting your valve cover.'

I most certainly did. But, it would be easy to do right after changing the spark plugs in your intake, or waxing your seats, or any other anomaly in speech...


Anyone here watch MightyCarMods? I watched their POD/CAI testing video and they stick with the stock airbox now. Comments for our cars? Is there a definite performance gain? It looks sweet but I am reluctant to believe it.
Here's their video- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCi2yo4UqPI&list=TLwOJcv4P2mbxG5lye-EiCXMTFuYlblCVq

 

[Nocturin]

If I had the stock airbox I'd use it... but I don't think it's been seen since she was 6mos old.

The Stock airbox has a lot more engineering into it, fluid dynamics and all that jazz. Most CAI/"POD"s have just about engineering in them to make sure they fit in the engine day.

 

[Nocturin]

So... I broke something over the weekend. Now I have a scraping/wobbling sound when coasting (it's still there when under accel, just not as bad) that goes away if I turn the wheel from center. It doesn't start making the noise till the moving parts warm up, so I'm thinking the strut is prolly blown now.

I may need to replace the mount and endlinks to resolve it, is my thought, but I haven't gotten it up to look under the passenger side where this noise started after a really hard shift from 1st to 2nd.

I was going to wait to replace the mount till I got the front struts replaced so I didn't "wear" it out eariler, but it looks like I may be doing the mount next payday if I can swing it and the ford endlinks, then get the struts pay-day after that.

 

[esnave09]

That definitely doesn't sound like a strut is blown. My 2 fronts have been blown since I got the car in March and they've never made any extra sounds like that. I wanna say it might be endlink or motor mount possibly (since it was after a hard shift). Does it only make the sound over bumps or is it constant even over smooth pavement?

The part about it only being after the car warms up is throwing me off though.... You're talking about the engine temp being warmed up right? Or just the suspension warming up after moving for a while?

 

[Nocturin]

The suspension warming up after moving for a little while; grease getting warm maybe. It's constant unless i turn the wheel a little to the left or right, then it lessens until I straighten out the wheels, think it's the wheel bearing after driving it again last night.

If the EX doesn't take all of my money next payday, I want to replace the wheel bearing (if that's what it is), mount, and endlinks weekend after next.

The logic behind it is that the wheel bearing was replaced about 500-1000miles ago (only had the car for a month... I drive alot.. and it was replaced right before I got the car), but the mount or strut wasn't, putting extra stress on the suspension parts, and tweaked the bearing in a way that it wasn't supposed to go... I hope. That passenger mount is the first to go, but it's the most important one. Gotta get some WW for the rest.

 

[Nocturin]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123746487-How-To-Wheel-Bearing-Replacement

Why does that seem so difficult? I guess I'd be able to take care of what other repairs while going through this process. I guess I would need to take the hub off somewhere and take it to get the bearing removed?

Bleh. More research inbound!

This bearing? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1118108&cc=1387447

@21$ each?

And this C-clip?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1842986&cc=1387447

4$ each.

Mmmmm.... time to start building a "What do I need list"!

 

[pcb]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123746487-How-To-Wheel-Bearing-Replacement

Why does that seem so difficult? I guess I'd be able to take care of what other repairs while going through this process. I guess I would need to take the hub off somewhere and take it to get the bearing removed?

Getting the axle out of the hub can be a real PITA. Some mechanics even include replacing the axle in their quote because they can't get them out so the cut the axle and take the whole knuckle to a machine shop. One guy took his knuckle in to press out the bearing and a 12 ton press couldn't press it out. I was lucky and mine came out easily. Check out the bearing manufactures web site to see if they describe their seal design,... I believe SKF is a quality bearing.

Bleh. More research inbound!

This bearing? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1118108&cc=1387447

@21$ each?

I got all stupid and got my bearings off ebay and only ended up saving about $30,... they are crap and even though it's got a three year warranty, you've huge labor to get to it for a $30 part. Don't cheap out on your bearing for an extra $20- $30 you can get much better ones.
It all boils down to the seal. My cheap ass bearings just have something like a washer sitting on the bearing and they call it a seal.

Here's a quote from my bearing thread,...

"SKF makes great bearings.... the two I have for the front of my 3 came in perfect.
Timken bearings are having some troubles, gm just dumped them as a supplier and of 2 rear hub assemblies, 1 came in 'lumpy' when turned. Got a replacement, and it has a detent in the rotation. I'm starting to think they're crap. But RockAuto customer service is great.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123830659-Bearing-Replacement-With-Video

And this C-clip?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1842986&cc=1387447

You can probably reuse the old clip,... that bearing is so damn tight in there that it's not going anywhere anyway

4$ each.

But for four bucks maybe just replace them

Mmmmm.... time to start building a "What do I need list"!

 

[Nocturin]

When you say axle out of the hub and just replace the entire knuckle... are you talking about the CV joint/axle or the half-shaft? I'm still trying to get these terms down correctly. I'll have a day to do both front bearings, although the left(driver side) isn't giving any issues so I don't know if I should replace them both at the same time.

The SKF Bearings are 29$, so if their of known quality, I'll have no issues with the extra 8$ to get a better peace of mind. I won't order off of eBay unless I have no other options, haven't used it in years.

Can you link me to your bearing thread? I'm trying to find all the photos and descriptions to collate to make things easier.

 

[esnave09]

To be honest, if you can take it back to the shop for the bearing, do it. I know it's a lot of money, but maybe they'll fix it under warranty like they do mine. I've had to replace both front bearings twice since I got the car, so I would definitely go to a shop so you don't get stuck doing it all over again another time. Although mine is kinda spendy, a total of $500 for both front bearings.

 

[pcb]

When you say axle out of the hub and just replace the entire knuckle... are you talking about the CV joint/axle or the half-shaft? I'm still trying to get these terms down correctly. I'll have a day to do both front bearings, although the left(driver side) isn't giving any issues so I don't know if I should replace them both at the same time.

The SKF Bearings are 29$, so if their of known quality, I'll have no issues with the extra 8$ to get a better peace of mind. I won't order off of eBay unless I have no other options, haven't used it in years.

Can you link me to your bearing thread? I'm trying to find all the photos and descriptions to collate to make things easier.

I assume they'd cut it here:

Replacing the knuckle can be really expensive for new so you'ld probably need one off a junker,... may be hard to find. Even if you have to cut the axle, the machine shop will most likely be able to press it apart and press new stuff in.

Yea,... I forgot the link:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123830659-Bearing-Replacement-With-Video

I linked to the original threads in my how-to.

 

[Nocturin]

Thank you, that's very helpful. The bearing's slowly getting worse, the cataloging process starts soon to gather all the parts needed. Thank you for posting the tools that you used, I need a couple of things.

 

[pcb]

You should check your ball joints while you've got stuff apart. I replaced both my lower control arms when I realized the passenger side ball joint was shot.

Replacing the entire control arm is easier to do than replacing just the ball joint. It's only a few dollars more than a ball joint and you get new bushings included.

IIRC, the bushings for the control arms are $58 alone and can reduce any slop created by worn bushings.

You can wedge a pinch bar between the control arm and steering knuckle to check for sloppiness before taking anything apart and add those parts to your list if you need them.

 

[Nocturin]

Thanks for the tip .

I talked the the previous owner today about the bearing to see if the work was still under warranty (was replaced less than 6wks ago), and if so I want to help replace it... but being in a shop full of tools makes the difference. If I can do that, I'd be remiss I could afforf more parts.


Rockauto is showing different brands from mevotech to moog. I don't know what the difference between them is, besides price. highest is 127.

Hmmmm, does racing beat make springs? Same road hieght or minimal drop?

found these tidbits
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123834285-anyone-looking-for-HP-Tokico-struts


is there something like this for struts?
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?58798-**-Spring-Buyer-s-Guide-**

if this information is correct for the least amount of drop I don't have many options. I was thinking about the tanabe or looking into the racing beats... which is is a stock MSP part? bleh, confusing.

 

[Nocturin]

Finally got the front of the car up on a jack. The front passenger side bearing is gone. I'm replacing it this weekend, there aren't any other options with as loose as it was.

 

[Nocturin]

Can't Locate a mount locally, so I'll be doing the bearing this weekend and the mount when I receive it since I can do it myself. Rockauto FTW.

Will the CS Inserts fit in the DEA Mount from rock-auto in the passenger side mount?

 

[Nocturin]

So we got the hub/knuckle off yesterday but the outer-race in the knuckle is stuck.

The company that replaced the wheel bearing before didn't tighten, or notch the axel nut correctly. The axel nut came off with my fingers and I didn't need a puller to get the axel out. The tie rod was a pain, had to use a scissor jack and pound the living hell out of the nut to get it to pop out.

The boots on the tie rod, end link, and lower control arm are shot so I'll have to replace those too. Yay.

Haven't even started on the other side yet.

I'll get photos up of the ruined hub in a little while. When they people removed it before had to get the inner race off, they used an angle grinder instead of a dremel, and took an inch long, 1/8 deep of chunk of metal out of the wheel hub.

 

[Nocturin]

I miss my baby. Dropped the knuckle off to get the outerrace pressed out and the new bearing installed. I'm hoping that carquest has the correct hub, I'm more than axious to get it back together and on the road again.

Ordered the passenger side mount from rockauto. Not I need to find out where I can buy some window weld locally so I can fill it before I install it.

 

[Nocturin]

It's been pressed! Picking it up tomorrow to get it all fixed!

 

[pcb]

NowI need to find out where I can buy some window weld locally so I can fill it before I install it.

phone or drop into a windshield replacement place and ask to buy a tube of the shelf

I got urethane windshield adhesive for half the price