I've never heard of that happening before. You sure that it's normal?
Radio / Speakers on CX-5 SPORT model
- Thread starter hollis
- Start date
I've never heard of that happening before. You sure that it's normal?
- :
- 2014 & 2019 CX-5 Touring(s)
ALL cars will leak into the door, around the window 'seals' etc. It is a fact of life. Most cars have plastic sheet between the inner door trim panel and the metal of the door to protect the trim because of this. I've never seen a door get as wet inside as this was though.
The CX-5 has a large plastic molding attached to the door that maybe fulfils some of this role, but no plastic sheet, and NOTHING behind the speaker to protect it. My OEM speaker was literally dripping! So, that's why I suggest putting in your own small plastic sheet to at least protect the speaker somewhat.
The CX-5 has a large plastic molding attached to the door that maybe fulfils some of this role, but no plastic sheet, and NOTHING behind the speaker to protect it. My OEM speaker was literally dripping! So, that's why I suggest putting in your own small plastic sheet to at least protect the speaker somewhat.
apexanimal
Member
- :
- 2013 CX5 Sport, 6mt
Honda fits are pretty well known to leak like the titanic through those plastic sheets... They just need some readhesing though...
Added a Kicker Hideaway last 2 weekends ago.
This is exactly the part I needed. It is just enough to fill in the bottom when using only the factory touchscreen head unit.
It is under the drivers seat and hard wired directly to the high level outputs on the back of the head.
I have the remote gain control just to the left of the steering wheel behind the turn signal - yes that means i drilled a hole in the lower dash panel.
It took some tuning all around, boost crossover, gain (on the hideway) and treble and bass on the head but now I can have it balanced very nicely or using the remote turn it up to get a little thump.
Key word is 'little' at only 150W you can feel it but it is not going to rattle the interior and shake fittings (or tooth fillings) loose. But then I am not trying to win any sound pressure level contests, so ... these are not a concern to me.
This is exactly the part I needed. It is just enough to fill in the bottom when using only the factory touchscreen head unit.
It is under the drivers seat and hard wired directly to the high level outputs on the back of the head.
I have the remote gain control just to the left of the steering wheel behind the turn signal - yes that means i drilled a hole in the lower dash panel.
It took some tuning all around, boost crossover, gain (on the hideway) and treble and bass on the head but now I can have it balanced very nicely or using the remote turn it up to get a little thump.
Key word is 'little' at only 150W you can feel it but it is not going to rattle the interior and shake fittings (or tooth fillings) loose. But then I am not trying to win any sound pressure level contests, so ... these are not a concern to me.
squibcakes
Member
This is where I mounted my remote gain control for my JL subwoofer...
<a href="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/DSC036471152x864.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/DSC036471152x864.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC036471152x864.jpg" height="225" width="300"/></a>
I originally looked at the Kicker Hideaway - but didn't think it would fit.. Good to know it does...
<a href="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/DSC036471152x864.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/DSC036471152x864.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC036471152x864.jpg" height="225" width="300"/></a>
I originally looked at the Kicker Hideaway - but didn't think it would fit.. Good to know it does...
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This is where I mounted my remote gain control for my JL subwoofer...
I originally looked at the Kicker Hideaway - but didn't think it would fit.. Good to know it does...
This looks fantastic.
- :
- CX-5 T
Did you install and how did you remove the HU to connect the Kicker unit? The Hideaway is out of stock in Crutchfield right now but I think a couple of these under the front seats should be good, since I would hate to lose any trunk space for those dog food trips to Costco. Thanks and if anyone has pics for pulling the HU, they would be appreciated.
squibcakes
Member
It's a pain that this HU doesn't have Pre outs.
I chose an amp that had LOC inputs. I ran 4 sets of speaker cable to the amp under the seat:
2x Cables : HU to Amp speaker level for the front two channels L+R into the amp.
2x Cables : AMP to HU harness amplified level for the front two speakers L+R
Removing the HU is a snatch. Just remove the plastic trim from the door working to the head unit. It just clips off.
<a href="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/Mazda%20CX5%20HU/DSC03580.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/Mazda%20CX5%20HU/DSC03580-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC03580.jpg"/> <a>
<a href="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/Mazda%20CX5%20HU/DSC03581.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/Mazda%20CX5%20HU/DSC03581-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC03581.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/Mazda%20CX5%20HU/DSC03582.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/Mazda%20CX5%20HU/DSC03582-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC03582.jpg"/></a>
The HU is held in by three screws. Unscrew them, and them pull the HU off one corner at a time working clockwise from top right.
1. I cut the four speaker wires for front speakers, BROWN + GREEN, BLUE + L/GREEN, and put a MOLEX connector onto it.
2. Put a MOLEX connector on two of the speaker cables going to the amp. Click these together.
3. Put a MOLEX connector on two of the speaker cables coming from the amp.
4. Put a MOLEX connector on two of the speaker cables going to the speakers. Click these together.
<a href="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/Mazda%20CX5%20HU/DSC03606.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/Mazda%20CX5%20HU/DSC03606-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC03606.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/Mazda%20CX5%20HU/DSC03608.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/Mazda%20CX5%20HU/DSC03608-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC03608.jpg"/></a>
5. The idea is that when I give up the leased car, I can remove the amp, speakers etc and just click the HU back into the speakers.
<a href="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/Mazda%20CX5%20HU/DSC03591.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee501/squibcakes74/Mazda%20CX5%20HU/DSC03591-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC03591-1.jpg"/></a>
It's a nice little project - but take your time and double check all your wiring three times.. The start of this thread has a link to the workshop wiring which you need to study.
In your case, you could just splice into the 4 wires (run parallel) shown above and not run the second set of speaker cables and use connectors etc... but since you are running cables and all that who know you may end up putting in an amp anyway.... ;-)
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- :
- CX-5 T
Thanks but hope thieves don't know that. I like your style and will do the same. Great write up with pics.
On a side note: I noticed Mice2 did a write up on the JBL MS8 amplified (8x20w) dsp and will probably take a similar route. My main goal is to maximize cabin space with a stealth installation using Focal IS 200 in the doors, tweeters perf'ed behind the door panel, replace dash and rear door speakers with something else and slim 10" sub under the seat with fiberglass enclosure.
I still have not figured out what to do with the empty center channel, any thoughts? Has anyone with the Bose stereo listened to the difference without it and feel is a worthy upgrade? I can put a speaker in there or use it for something else like a hidden/flip up detector or fabricate a depressed area for holding cell etc? Many Thanks
squibcakes
Member
I run component splits; woofers in the doors and tweeters in the factory dash locations.. There is no speaker in the centre channel - and I don't think it needs it. I found with directional tweeters you can aim them to improve your front staging which for me was just straight up.
If using passive cross overs than you need to think about where to mount and cut into wiring too...
squibcakes,
Thanks for the info with the pictures.
Why not just use a wire harness to the HU to avoid the wire cutting?
There only $5 shipped:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400503005727?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
I've been thinking of upgrading the stock radio but waiting to hear about details about the diesel cx-5 versions first.
Thanks for the info with the pictures.
Why not just use a wire harness to the HU to avoid the wire cutting?
There only $5 shipped:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400503005727?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
I've been thinking of upgrading the stock radio but waiting to hear about details about the diesel cx-5 versions first.
squibcakes
Member
Hi Hollis,
I wanted to use a harness, but I couldn't find one suitable at the time.
I'm still not sure this would do? I'm guessing that this harness is used when using an after market radio.. so you plug this into the existing harness, then splice the wires on to the connector/harness of the new radio.
I think this method would be more work?
I have a 2013 touring with the six speakers and I am going to be upgrading the speakers. All the prior post are very informative and will make the upgrade a breeze; thank you all for the information and photos.
I have one question. In the future I may add an amp. My question is, is the vechile prewired for an amp? There is a wiring harness under the passenger seat but it isn't hooked up to anything. I am thinking that it may be for the powered seats, but I'm not sure. Would anyone know what this wiring harness is for?
I have one question. In the future I may add an amp. My question is, is the vechile prewired for an amp? There is a wiring harness under the passenger seat but it isn't hooked up to anything. I am thinking that it may be for the powered seats, but I'm not sure. Would anyone know what this wiring harness is for?
- :
- CX-5 T
What size tweets? I was thinking Focal IS200 or possibly 3-way with 3.5 mids in dash and hide tweets in center facing windshield. Help is appreciated.
squibcakes
Member
Mine were 1" tweeters.. http://www.alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=224
I think the focal should be good.
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- CX-5 T
Thanks squibcakes I am working on it as we speak and your photos are priceless.
squibcakes
Member
That's the spirit! Rip into it. If you need any more photos or tips just yell out!
Yes I installed it myself. took my sweet time with it, 3 beers and about 3 hours.
Removed the seat and the head unit to do so.
Used the parts that came with the unit and some solder electric tape wire loom and shrink wrap tube. That is it.
Start at the passenger side and remove the black trim piece on the dash from the passenger side to the drivers side by gently prying on it.
then the radio bezel and the radio itself. Couple of minutes tops.
I tapped into the high level outputs, solder and tape, didn't want to cut the factory harness so no shrink tube.
Ran the leads from under the seat up under the center console (without removing it) to the center stack.
Power and the remote lead ran under the sill panel and up the A pillar.
Power is taken straight off the battery and I took the lazy route - or the I have no desire to drill the firewall and no desire to try to jam my personage up under the dash to attempt and fish the lead through some existing grommet that i may never find on the outside - of tucking the lead up under the weatherstripping to near the base of the windshield where is sneaks out and under the fender where it is loomed to prevent chafing through the engine bay to the battery positive post. I also mounted the provided in line fuse out here just off the battery post.
The ground is attached to the floor under the sill panel.
Unit is mounted lengthwise under the drivers seat, this way it does not block the HVAC vent there although it does cost a little foot space under my seat.
(The wife an I don't have any kids so the rear seat is really used only for Pepper the dog and she doesn't notice the issue or complain about it!) The controls face forward easily adjusted by sliding the seat reward.
The Kicker remote gain hardware would not fit in the panel as shown here, at least not in my car it wouldn't. so i tucked it up behind the turn signal near the top of the lower dash panel. Easily reached while driving, very much out of sight, and in a place where it shouldn't get hit/caught on things.
Still pleased with it.
I just want to thank everyone on this thread; I usually do my own installs, but this time, I decided to go pro. Having the wiring diagrams and knowing what fit where helped me pick out exactly what I wanted, where I wanted, ahead of time. (I even had to correct the installer a couple of times on specs, which saved a lot of time, so thanks again). For those of you with the Sport and base HU, I cannot recommend an upgrade enough. Seriously. I had a chance to listen the the Bose system in a Grand Touring, and this setup spanks it harder than an 8th-grader that just discovered Skinemax.
If you happen to have any questions, let me know, but thanks again!
(See specs below in the sig) (dance)
If you happen to have any questions, let me know, but thanks again!
(See specs below in the sig) (dance)
I've decided to upgrade the stock head unit to the Pioneer line, their 2014 car radios are coming next month. Hoping more models will have HDMI inputs so I can project my android screen on the Headunit and use it as my phone.
Why upgrade?
+ HD radio, around Boston their is plenty of stations and they sound very good. FM stations really sound like CD quality and zero static.
+ Bluetooth, A2D audio streaming eliminates aux input cables running to my dash
+ Backup camera, easily activates when patched to reverse license plate lights
+ improved audio quality over stock radio
+ compatible with steering audio controls
+ 7" screen for google maps navigation, web, movies off phone or LTE streaming. ARLiberator lets you control your Android OS and phone via the radio touch screen.
+ eliminate high to low converters for amp inputs, run pre-amp from HU directly to amp
+ Use Remote wire from HU for amp
+ reversible if need be, can always remove new HU and put back in the stock
- $500 price tag total , hoping mid line has HDMI input to be closer to $350 price point
- Pioneer 2014 line to be announced in Oct 2013 and in stores Nov 2013, not too far away.
- hoping I dont decide to sell the car any time soon, but I guess I can sell it or more the HU to another car to recoup the losses
I could invest in a higher quality mobile phone thats 5.5" - 5.7" (G2 or note 3), but will miss out on many features and would be nice to get rid of seeing my mobile phone mounting bracket with 2 wires leading into it all the time (headset and pwr)
Why upgrade?
+ HD radio, around Boston their is plenty of stations and they sound very good. FM stations really sound like CD quality and zero static.
+ Bluetooth, A2D audio streaming eliminates aux input cables running to my dash
+ Backup camera, easily activates when patched to reverse license plate lights
+ improved audio quality over stock radio
+ compatible with steering audio controls
+ 7" screen for google maps navigation, web, movies off phone or LTE streaming. ARLiberator lets you control your Android OS and phone via the radio touch screen.
+ eliminate high to low converters for amp inputs, run pre-amp from HU directly to amp
+ Use Remote wire from HU for amp
+ reversible if need be, can always remove new HU and put back in the stock
- $500 price tag total , hoping mid line has HDMI input to be closer to $350 price point
- Pioneer 2014 line to be announced in Oct 2013 and in stores Nov 2013, not too far away.
- hoping I dont decide to sell the car any time soon, but I guess I can sell it or more the HU to another car to recoup the losses
I could invest in a higher quality mobile phone thats 5.5" - 5.7" (G2 or note 3), but will miss out on many features and would be nice to get rid of seeing my mobile phone mounting bracket with 2 wires leading into it all the time (headset and pwr)
