I certainly can appreciate it. I guess my thoughts were that because everything is different, and improved for the most part, why 95% it? But it's all good. Your project, your boat to float. As long as you're happy right?
Protege5: Harder, not Smarter!
- Thread starter Tamn
- Start date
TylerStoltz
Member
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- Mazda Protege5
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
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- New Caney TX
Hopefully you've looking into the Doc B Oil pump service...
Nope, I'm designing my own modifications.
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- aggressive auto culture
external oil pump with dry sump system?
31N007
31N007
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- Mazda Protege5
1998 Ford Contour SVT
2017 GTI DSG PP
2007 4Runner
With the tranny in the back (am I right to say that?) the system could go in the engine bay, right? Then weight distribution would still be good? Or am I thinking about it all wrong? Regardless, excited to see the end result!
Considered it, I think it's more trouble than its worth for a street driven car. Just a very elaborate wet sump.
Well, I could do that, but their are several reasons why I probably won't. The longer lines I have to run between the block and the oiling systems the more elaborate it needs to be, adding more overall weight as well as complexity. But...having said that, It's going to be a very tight fit back there with all my turbo piping so its not written in stone.
Currently working hard on the cylinder heads / block. Once I have it assembled I will be turning my attention to mating the engine to the transmission. Throughout I am designing the chassis design...and re designing...and re designing...
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Ubel Knubel
Member
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- Mazda Protege5
I have been reading over your entire thread over the past week (when im not working) and the whole talk of a RWD P5 gets me thinking. but my main question, if not already answered. how are you going to transfer the power from the motor to the rear wheels? now, i know i sound stupid asking this (i do understand how FWD and RWD cars put power to the wheels) but are you going to use a "FWD" form of putting power to the wheels... in the back? if so you might want to look at something like this, ferrari came out with a semi-wagon that is AWD. but instead of using a transfer box from the tranny before the drivetrain. the front wheels are powered by gears in the actual block of the engine. Top gear UK did a show on it. have you considered doing something like that? not AWD but the setup like that? I love the build and will keep up with it! keep zoomin! P.S. sub.
By putting the engine in the back/mid of the car I will be attaching it the same way the MR2 engine attaches to the transaxle. I will need to modify/make from scratch the shafts to make the splines match up as well as the bellhousing assemblies but the shafts themselves are very short so in this case I think keeping it simple is the way to go. It is very similar to how the original p5 transmission mates to the engine, just placed in the rear.
I briefly looked at some sort of AWD system but discarded it pretty quickly because it adds quite a lot of weight and complexity to the project.
I know a guy that did one back in the day. That car was pure evil, fast as hell if the tires gripped and nearly uncontrolable when they didn't.
Ubel Knubel
Member
- :
- Mazda Protege5
Haha, Fiero's the poor mans Ferrari! Tamn, have you thought about what you are going to do about the way the back of your car handles the weight that is normally in the front? Right now my dad and i are doing an LS1 swap in my iroc-z camaro and when we pulled out the blown 350, the front end of the car lifted itself up a whole lot. have you thought about the amount of force that mid-rear setup is gonna put on the back? youll end up doing a wheelie if you were to gun it! haha!
Looking for the like button
I forsee many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many,many, many, many, many, many, issues with this build. The car and its suspension were designed to have a motor in the front. the factory weight balance was about 60/40, so when you put that motor back there and the balance becomes 30/70, what are you gonna do? the front will have no weight to keep the tires on the ground and probably understeer worse than proteges already do. The chassis is also reinforced in the engine bay to withstand the torquing of the engine between shifts and every time we jam the gas pedal. the floor boards in the rear of the car were not meant to handle that. they were meant to handle a few hundred pounds of relatively static weight. if you think you can do this then hey more power to you, but im gonna go ahead before this all starts and say that i think its a lost cause, though i do hope to see you finish it
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Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
well, first of all...and i'm not taking sides to any degree...but, building something in the 30/70 distribution range will incorporate oversteer...not understeer...Were old 911's 'widow makers' because they pushed through corners...not at all...
the only issue is see with what you pointed out is suspension options...more so than the dynamics of what he is building...the problem i see coming is that there aren't any suspension systems available for P5's that factor in a midship layout...the rears are always softly sprung and under damped compared to the front; as the weight is up there...and dialing that out with an engine towards the middle will be tough...
In general, a soft front and tight rear end is tail happy...a tight front and soft rear end doesn't rotate...with weight towards the rear, the front will need to remain stiff in order to keep the rear end in line, rather than always 'tucking in'...but the rear will also need to be significantly stiffer than stock in order to keep the new weight distribution from bottoming out...it'll be a very tricky balance imo, but could be done...negative rear camber can keep the rear from stepping out as much, etc...
lastly...we haven't given the guy a chance to see just how this engine is going to be mounted back there...its very unlikely that he's just going to bolt it to the factory floor board...it'll need its own custom sub frame...the best part of that, is that it can be anchored to so many different points of a uni-body, and become a structural member of the car...if done right, his set up could end up stiffer than the car already is...
Alright, I'll show off my latest work on the cylinder head. Time spent so far on this is around 15 hours with 60 grit sandpaper rolls and grinding stones to get the surface relatively smooth. I've then spent another 10 hand sanding with 220 grit paper because their is no way to get into the nooks with any form of electric sander. I also have to take a ton of care not to sand/grind anything with a machined surface.
Same process I'm using on the engine block, but 10x faster (no, I'm serious, at least 10 times, I have over 150 hours on the block so far) I'm so tired of working on the iron of the block this is almost fun.
Tip on removing valve springs if you don't have a compressor, or...you have one and want to save some time. Please be careful to not hit the head itself or let the socket chisel into anything.
Place socket over spring and retainer and give it a nice solid whack, being fast is more important than just bashing on the thing. You can take all 16 off in under 2 minutes this way. If it doesn't work in one hit, keep trying you will get the hang of it.
Cleaning the exhaust ports out, carb cleaner and a ton of brush/toothpick work.
A few pics of the ports themselves showing some casting marks and flaws which I will later correct.
Cleaning the cylinder heads with water and a mild acid, be sure to check the acid will not etch aluminum first.
Abrasive grinding stones on everything else, when the stone gets really worn down I use it on the smallest diameter of the crevices to get at the very back.
Notice the "rough" surface of where I smoothed it with the grinding stone versus the 220 area.
Yes...that rubberband really cuts off circulation.
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