The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working

It was a pretty cold weekend to camp
It was really only bad last night. I had my Mr. Heater on low and the kept the tent warm enough the other nights, Last night it was on high and went through 3 of the small propane tanks.

id rather it be cool than hot when camping, can always add layers, and after a certain point you cant take more layers off hahaha

agreed
 
I installed my new Carbotech AX6 front brake pads on Saturday. Talk about a PITA!!!! The inside pads have a metal bracket and they're supposed to snap in place. Well, the Carbotech brackets didn't fit. I found out the hard way earlier last week when I made my first attempt at installing them. I couldn't get them to snap in place and the bracket ended up cracking off. So, I contacted KNS Brakes where I bought the pads from. I must say, they're customer support is top notch! The same day, they emailed me back saying Carbotech is sending me a replacement pad free-of-charge. I got the replacement Friday and tried installing it again Saturday. Well, they still didn't fit. I compared them to the old EBC yellowstuff pads I had and the brackets aren't bent correctly. They stick out too wide and don't work. So, I bent the brackets inwards a little bit and they finally snapped right into place!


Now I have a question for anyone that's used the Carbotech AX6 pads. How did you guys bed the pads? The instructions say you're supposed to bed them on the race track, which I find odd considering these pads are designed for Street/Track driving. Here's the bedding instructions:

Proper bedding instructions for AX-Series & XP-Series Compounds :

1. All new brake pads require a bedding process, start this process by pumping your brakes a few times to assure proper installation. Once on track perform several moderate (medium) near stops (to a very slow rolling speed) to thoroughly warm up the pads and rotors. This should take 1-2 laps. This allows a thin layer of the pad material to be transferred into the micro-grooves of the rotor.

2. After the pads/rotors are warm, perform a series of hard near stops (to a slow rolling speed) until some brake fade is felt. This process should take about 2-4 laps (depending on the track). Once this occurs, then stay off the brakes (as much as possible) and bring your car into the pits/paddock to completely cool. Do not lock the tires during this operation.

3. Allow brake pads and/or rotors cool down to ambient temperatures; no less than 30 minutes. The total bedding procedure should not take more than 5-6 laps or about 10-15 minutes.


I bed my pads pretty good (there's some nice empty roads near my house so I was able to safely do it without any traffic), but I may not have gotten them hot enough on the street. Mine are squealing like a dump truck! Insanely loud! It only happens after I use the brakes hard. It makes that noise no matter what pressure I use when braking, soft stops and hard stops. It continues the entire drive until I let the car sit for like 20-30 minutes. If I use the brakes lightly during a trip (no hard stops), I don't hear any noise. I'm going to try re-bedding the pads to see if that helps.

So, what do you guys think? Will re-bedding them help? Or will this noise go away after I put like 300+ miles on them?
 
It was really only bad last night. I had my Mr. Heater on low and the kept the tent warm enough the other nights, Last night it was on high and went through 3 of the small propane tanks.

agreed

i have a 0 degree "mummy" sleeping bag and that combo'd on my army cot and sleeping pad, im quite comfy, sometimes borderline hot/sweaty in cold/cool weather haha... i have another bag thats just a fleece for summer weather
 
Evan, I am no pad expert but I don't think rebedding the pads will do much. Since the material transfer has been done. Maybe if you have the rotors resurfaced you could do it again. Which begs the question. Did you have the rotors turned or replaced? Old pad material could be causing the squeal.
 
Ya sure did. Motor is built and swapped in a 6-speed from a speed. Found the limits of the stock ecu with dynotronics/aem fic piggy back. anything above 14 psi car no like. but it did make 340 torques. This past fall I was at SEMA for work and meet up with the guys at AEM. They were cool and hooked me up with their racer program. I got a hold of their new Infinity Stand-Alone and am currently working with them to sort out development stuff. Things like DBW, VVT, etc for the mzr. Have ran into a lot of issues with the mazda cam and crank pattern and using VVT. The crank trigger is a 36-2-2-2 and the cam has 6 teeth. The problem is when the cam would move, either advance or retard, and one of the teeth on the cam would pass by a missing tooth on the crank trigger. This would freak out the infinity, and lose sync. So after a bit of time/$ being spent on this, the options were to continue devloping, eliminate the VVT, and use a exhaust cam gear on the intake and delete the cam phaser, or change the pattern on the cam/crank. VVT is worth a good bit of torque down low and into the mid-range. Being that the car will live mostly on the track, i want all the grunt i can get coming out of a corner. this also helps the turbo spool faster. So i just pulled the top of the motor back apart and removed the cam and crank pulley/trigger wheel. I am having 5 of the teeth removed from the Cosworth cam, so it will just have one trigger. The crank trigger wheel is being replaced with one i found from the uk and then modifying. The MZR crank trigger wheel O.D. is 6.5". The replacement is a 36-1, but i need 36-2. So the machine shop is laser cutting of one more tooth. Once back in place, it is a matter of selecting this cam/crank pattern from a drop down menu, and that issue should be solved...... :) The folks over at AEM have VVT strategies for this combo, with lots of RD behind it thanks to the a Toyota/Scion drift car and Tuner Mitch Pederson. This way i won't be starting from scratch. The car its self has been gutted, no dash, no interior, etc. Supperlagera! Once the infinity is up and going it will be time to cage it and finish body work. In my spare time i have been attending training from AEM and am on my way to being an authorized advanced tuner. I like to do things myself.... lol. The family is doing Good, thanks for asking! They come first, then the car of course. So sometimes it takes awhile to get things done, but they are getting there. If anyone needs any stock 3 parts let me know, i have an attic full. lots of inside plastics, rear seat, cargo cover/liner, head liner, cd player, etc. They need to go to a good home!

Great work. Why didn't you just start with an ms3 though? Didn't want a hatch?
 
Evan, I am no pad expert but I don't think rebedding the pads will do much. Since the material transfer has been done. Maybe if you have the rotors resurfaced you could do it again. Which begs the question. Did you have the rotors turned or replaced? Old pad material could be causing the squeal.

Same here, I'm no pad expert LOL. I did not get the rotors resurfaced/turned. They currently have 27k miles on them. I believe I asked the question about whether or I should get the rotors resurfaced/turned recently. I think someone said I should be ok if I don't do it. On my last set of rotors, I moved from the OEM pads to the EBC Yellowstuff without getting the rotors resurfaced/turned. I didn't experience any squealing, although the Yellowstuff aren't as aggressive of a pad as the AX6s.

The bedding process should remove the old pad material completely, I think. If that's the case and there's still old pad material left, that might indicate I didn't completely bed the new brake pad in? Like I said, I'm no expert so idk HAHA
 
LOL! The question is, do your brakes squeal just a little bit when you're coming to a stop (and not applying a lot of pressure)? Or do they squeal no matter how much you apply the brakes?

Mine only squeal with light pressure, if I step on them hard they are quiet. I have HP+, didn't change or turn over the rotors (stock pads before), and didn't bed them properly since I ran into traffic on 21\77 but they work just fine.
 
Mine only squeal with light pressure, if I step on them hard they are quiet. I have HP+, didn't change or turn over the rotors (stock pads before), and didn't bed them properly since I ran into traffic on 21\77 but they work just fine.

Interesting. This is what leads me to believe I have an issue and I'm not just a member of the squeal club. My pads will do that during a normal trip IF I don't brake hard at all during the trip. If I brake hard once during a trip, the brakes will squeal any time I touch the brakes the rest of the trip. Doesn't matter if I'm applying hard/soft pressure to the brakes.

I think I'm going to try re-bedding them and then put some miles on them. If it doesn't stop the crazy squealing, I'll just have to deal with it...because race car!
 
Mine only squeal with light pressure, if I step on them hard they are quiet. I have HP+, didn't change or turn over the rotors (stock pads before), and didn't bed them properly since I ran into traffic on 21\77 but they work just fine.

Same. Light = school bus. Heavy - no squeal.
 
Back