Swapping blown motor

littlemimus

fear the mighty sandvich!
:
Mazdaspeed protege 2003
Ok so im taking my old motor out as cylinder 3 and 4 have no compression and im wondering what else asides from the windage tray do i need to swap over?

also what do i use to re seal the oil pan?
 
The water and oil feed parts for the turbo, oil cooler. Check the camshaft markings as well make sure they are the same.


For the oil pan use permatex ultra black Or rtv sealant of your choice. Make sure you use a good amount of sealant for the oil pan. Same thing for the windage tray, but i used permatex ultra copper for the windage tray.
 
The water and oil feed parts for the turbo, oil cooler. Check the camshaft markings as well make sure they are the same.


For the oil pan use permatex ultra black Or rtv sealant of your choice. Make sure you use a good amount of sealant for the oil pan. Same thing for the windage tray, but i used permatex ultra copper for the windage tray.

cool thank you. excuse my ignorance but how would i check camshaft markings?
 
the power steering pump's plate that 'hangs' it on the block...is different...you may need to use the stock FS-DE's power steering pump bracket instead, so it may involve finding one at a wrecking yard or parts store...shouldn't be too expensive, but iirc the holes in the block won't line up correctly with the MSP's bracket...

Its more confusing in writing than if you just do it...as the parts you need from the msp engine are probably fine to swap over to the standard 2.0L protege engine...

The mechanical differences are small...the crank cradle, or 'girdle', or windage tray (the plate that mounts above the oil pan on the bottom of the block) is tapped for the turbo's oil return line on the MSP...so you need to use the MSP's tray, instead of the normal protege tray...If you don't want to do that, then other guys just tap a hole in the pan for the return line...it accomplishes the same thing, but the pan being stamped and pretty thin...makes it difficult to get a full proof seal for that line...the tray on your msp engine is probably perfectly fine for the swap though; they're not overly under stress or anything unless you grenaded the entire engine...

the MSP also uses an oil cooler adapter plate that routes coolant...and cools oil moving in an out of the oil filter by mounting between them...you'll need to keep all the coolant lines and the plate itself to swap it to the new engine...

the cam shaft gears: That is a matter of what specific FS-DE you are using; meaning what car it came from...the FS has been around a while, but lots of little changes were made over the years...Your MSP computer needs to have an engine with the cam position sensor reading the exhaust cam gear...not all FS engines have cam gears, or a valve cover, designed for this...if you pulled the engine from any 3rd gen protege...you have nothing to worry about, but if you pulled it out of an older car (especially one with a distributor), you'll have some work to do...You'll need to use your MSP valve cover, cam position sensor, and cam gears...your MSP crank pulley and crank position sensor also (if the head is different, chances are it uses that eliptical crank gear instead of the MSP's 'teeth')...and even worse, if you have an engine that was distributed...you'll need to find a way to plug the front of the head where the distributor shaft comes through...

good luck man...
 
oh ok cool.

i was planning on swapping everything over from the old motor to the new one. but that clarifies things alot. and the motor is out of a third gen protege.
 
I am doing a replacement motor swap now with an engine from a 02 626. We just took the replacement motor down to block/bottom end (removed cyclinder head, windage tray, and oil pan), and are going to swap everything from the MSP to that block.

If rest of the parts from the MSP are good, why not do it that way? We are pulling the motor and trans out of the MSP, seperating them, dissassembling the MSP motor to take the cyclinder head, windage tray, and all the accessories, then putting it all onto the replacement block, then install in reverse order. I guess if you didn't want to replace gaskets that makes since, but if you're going through all this trouble why not take the time and money to do it right th first time?
 
I dont really care to keep dumping money into the car. Once I put the new motor in ill keep it for another month and then sell the car. Otherwise I would of just gone forged.
 
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