CorkSport SRI Cold Air Duct

It was "too lean" everything is great now though.
 
We kept the diameter of the MAF housing stock, just like the stock housing. We machined the 2 MAF differently from our Mazda 3 and speed 3 intakes to keep the OD of the piece a little smaller. The idea is to fit smaller silicone and be a little more compact.

Derrick
 
Hi Derrick,

Did you try any larger ID's on the MAF housing? Just wondering if there is any "fudge" room at all?

Thanks,
John
 
We kept the diameter of the MAF housing stock, just like the stock housing. We machined the 2 MAF differently from our Mazda 3 and speed 3 intakes to keep the OD of the piece a little smaller. The idea is to fit smaller silicone and be a little more compact.

Derrick
Interesting that it throw CELL to ngd298 even with stock diameter. I assume that the problem is somewhere else and not from SRI.

Hi Derrick,

Did you try any larger ID's on the MAF housing? Just wondering if there is any "fudge" room at all?

Thanks,
John
Maybe there is, but for a company like corksport, they can't jeopardize the stability of a product on a car. For example i was running a MAF housing with id of ~61mm but in 2 years in summer time mostly it threw me 2 to 3 times CELL.
 
The air duct is the trigger with the CEL. The extra air hits the filter at the front from the ducting and there is some turbulence that the air filter cannot smooth out.

We did play with some larger MAFs. The temperature differences like AN7 mentioned can trigger a CEL. With a tuner of some type you could calibrate the ECU to take advantage or a larger maf up to a point. It probably would make more sense with a forced induction setup though.

-Derrick
 
The air duct is the trigger with the CEL. The extra air hits the filter at the front from the ducting and there is some turbulence that the air filter cannot smooth out.

We did play with some larger MAFs. The temperature differences like AN7 mentioned can trigger a CEL. With a tuner of some type you could calibrate the ECU to take advantage or a larger maf up to a point. It probably would make more sense with a forced induction setup though.

-Derrick

Yeah, I remember when I had a short ram(like yours) with an air duct i had some issues on part throttle because of turbulence, when i put a thin metallic mesh before the MAF, the flow was much better as i could tell from the volts of the MAF everything was ok.
 
It was around 9 degrees farenhiegt, so with all of that dense air and the fact that I hadn't bothered to reset the engine computer, it was my fault and not the duct. Kind of an absolute worst case scenario.
 
Thanks Derrick,

Appreciate the info. Did you try any larger air filters? I have some larger ones available to me that I might try.

John
 
I got a lean CEL as well. I reset the ECU and it went away for about 500 miles or so then came back. I will try clocking the MAF at some point to see if that fixes it. For now I'm running without the air duct. I noticed with the duct my tach needle
would jump around like crazy before stabilizing when I lifted and coasted to a stop. The duct does its job well. Possibly too well :) lol
 
If you are running with 60-70mph or so and you press the clutch, the idle is steady or the rpms go crazy or even the engine stalls? (with the duct)
 
The engine never stalled. The car just seemed to have trouble finding a good idle RPM while coasting in neutral. It would drop to like 600 then bounce up to 1200 or so then kinda fluctuate wildly then settle at the normal idle rpm.
 
Try what Ι wrote above because when i had a short ram back in 2008, I had this problem at high speeds with the clutch pressed, the engine couldn't keep the idle and finally it stalled.
 
I'm not sure how to get the MAF in the 12 o' clock position with the Corksport SRI. The OEM MAF housing is in the way.
 
I'm not sure how to get the MAF in the 12 o' clock position with the Corksport SRI. The OEM MAF housing is in the way.

Same problem here...more encouragement to make an ecu relocation bracket I guess.
 
When I installed mine, I just tried to position everything so it looked like the photos in the CS instructions. I haven't had any problems. Have you guys checked all your hoses, and especially the MAF mount and the barbed insert and clamps? Could be something simple like that. I also had left the battery disconnected for about 20 to 25 minutes.
 
Update- I've put 5k miles on the duct now with no issues after I reset my ECU.
 
Those of you who have the CorkSport SRI Cold Air Duct, check your battery cable placement. Mine was well out of the way of contact with the filter, but after a few weeks of, um, spirited driving on a more daily basis, I opened the hood today and noticed that the top edge of the intake has been not only in contact with the battery cable (one of them, anyway), but has been slowly cutting into it due to engine movement. The leading edge of the duct must have just enough roughness to it, that it is actually making its way through the cable insulation. I tied mine back with a zip strip to prevent any further contact. I would suggest that you all check yours as well.
 
Any long-term updates from the owners of the SRI and duct? Have there been any further issues with check engine lights, battery cables, or problems related to depriving the ECU from fresh airflow?

Thanks in advance!
 
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