how to make quiet power?

I'm not stuck on numbers - less hp is OK if its backed with some good torque. the 220whp is really just a target. I'm really after fun factor.

Yes, my next purchase will be a boost gauge and wideband - just trying to find ones that best matches the MSP dash gauges, both day and night modes. Any suggestions?

I was going to get a SSAFC - I guess you guys don't call that a bolt on. Would that get me to 220 or do I need a standalone unit?
 
tweety2300 said:
Someone on here did 220 at 8 psi
Click to expand...
I dont recall anyone doing that on a stock turbo. If you can please find me that thread so I can look into it. I'd like to know what was done myself to get to that point.

spicy yellow said:
I'm not stuck on numbers - less hp is OK if its backed with some good torque. the 220whp is really just a target. I'm really after fun factor.

Yes, my next purchase will be a boost gauge and wideband - just trying to find ones that best matches the MSP dash gauges, both day and night modes. Any suggestions?

I was going to get a SSAFC - I guess you guys don't call that a bolt on. Would that get me to 220 or do I need a standalone unit?
Click to expand...

belieave it or not but 170whp is pretty fun on this car. Your tires will still break loose in the higher rpms in 1st gear and you can still spin them going into 2nd if you desired. I say address the basic issues with the MSP (go FMIC and ditch the heat soak proned SMIC and the plastic pipes), intake really doesnt add much power but it does add to the fun factor on these cars, then your mod should be a catless midpipe(best bang for your buck mod), then get a SS AFC and see how you like it from their on stock boost. Obviously a wideband and boost gauge is a given.
 
I said 8 psi and I remember it being an ssafc. There wasn't a build thread it was in somebody's sig
 
Ok, this unichip thing has got me really interested partly because it seems to be able to deal with offsetting the timing advance on my reflashed ECU while remaining a PnP. I'm interpreting that as being safer. Is that correct?

So I did a search and found this:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...GEMENT-Answers-from-Jack-at-unichip-us/page11

If you look on the last page of that thread, someone has close to 220hp without a unichip or SSAFC - and he's got a SMIC! He's boosted to 10psi back in 2004 so we don't know if he joined the zoom zoom boom club. Makes me wonder if I can get around 200whp on 8psi with just bolt-ons plus Unichip / SSAFC.

Can anyone tell me if a 3" exhaust is deeper in tone than a 2.5", but no louder? Assume the cat, resonator, and muffler are all free flow. All else being equal, I would prefer a lower note but not if its also louder.
 
tweety2300 said:
Size of the exhaust is noise tone depends on cat resonator and muffler
Click to expand...

yes, but lets assume the cat, resonator, and muffler are all the same, even though that is impossible because the inside diameter of those changes with the pipe size. So lets say those 3 are made by the same company.
 
Considering the resonator and cats are Mazda and the muffler is racing beat it won't happen. What I can say is that the Honda people wanting a deep tone and no rasp go with magna flow, and they usually do no cat 3-4" setups. If I were to buy a cat back it would be that
 
It's really all in the tune. For bolt ons if your wanting to make that much power safely without forging I would suggest

Steed speed mani
Pope intake mani
Turbo back exhaust
Intake
Electronic boost controller ( not manual)
Ssafc
Port/ polish head
Very very good tune
Fmic

Those should get you there and maybe more
 
I am with you on the quiet thing. One reason I didn't go to a 3" exhaust is because the welder I talked to said he could only make it as quiet as a 3" exhaust can be. I was pretty certain it was going to be louder than I wanted and aborted.

Upon recommendation from respected vendors, I tried just replacing the mid pipe. I purchased one with a hi flow cat since I've driven a car without cats and it was unbearable.

The SLS mid pipe made absolutely no difference in sound, but unfortunately, also made absolutely no difference in power. At least it wasn't measurable by my phone's accelerometer. The exact same 1/4 trap speed was achieved down to the tenth of a mph.

The stock mid pipe fits a 2" cat so it is 2" at its widest, but the S and J pipe are much much smaller than that in the bends. My calipers put them around 1.7", could be less. So until you replace the S pipe with the now discontinued 3" Pope downpipe or the reproduced Corksport 2.5" downpipe, I don't think there is anything to be gained. I'd start there and work my way back.

I have the full Injen CAI. It's been on my car pretty much its entire 10 year life. I wash and re-oil the filter once a year. It's not really a big hassle. Also, you would need to drive through some seriously deep water for water ingestion to be a problem. This topic has been beaten to death over and over on nearly every car forum on the web and unless you are a complete retard, it is not an issue. The kind of water that would cause a problem, you shouldn't be driving through anyway.

The only problem with the CAI is it is insanely expensive. So try to find one used. It will make the car louder, but only in a good way. It will not be noticeable at all under light throttle. You will however hear the turkey, and you can start researching what to do about that. Personally, I've very much enjoyed freaking people out since I bought the car in '06. However, the car does drive much better without it.

Tuning is a whole 'nother beast. There is definitely some power and driving improvement to be made with a piggyback like the SSAFC, Unichip or AEM FIC. However, there are fundamental problems with the MSP PCM that I don't believe can be solved with a piggyback. Unfortunately, standalones are too expensive and complicated to really justify on the MSP. It has to be a hobby for you and certainly not your only means of transportation, and even then it is a massive waste of money.

Just remember, you are driving a 10 year old car. Things are not going to perform like new, and other things will break. Make sure you start putting money aside for when they do.
 
Thanks guys. Some really good info I'm getting.

Believe it or not, one of the reasons I love my MSP so much is that it has the highest fun/cost ratio of any car I've owner. I've had a boring corolla, and civic. I've had expensive to maintain Vanagon and Saab 900. Even my CRX costed more to keep running on the road in a well maintained state. I never neglect the things that ought to be done. So I'm already way ahead already and don't mind if something breaks. Mind you, my MSP has 87,000km.

As for the intake, I just realized the RAI is the only choice for me because I'd be really put off with having to jack up the car to access the CAI filter - I don't have a garage to work in.
 
I didn't jack up the car to install my Injen just a few weeks ago. Hell, I didn't even remove the wheel. It's a tight fit, but you only have to access it once a year.
 
He lives in Canada so an Sri would prob be a better idea with a lot of snow and salt itl get dirty faster
 
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