Thats odd, I actually swapped an atp for my old oem revised wga and I tried to match the length as best I could. Now im boosting fine (set to 12psi) but my vacuum isnt right. Honestly the car is working perfectly so im thinking of just saying **** it and leaving it as is.
HOW-TO: WGA (wastegate actuator) replacement.
- Thread starter Alejo_NIN
- Start date
jerry.stoangi
Member
Been there done that. The boost is not adjustible via rod length. To correctly achieve the desired boost level you must change the spring or a boost controller or both. The rod should be adjusted such that it pulls tightly on the wastegate door, holding it closed. If the rod is loose, the wastegate door will be off its seat, bleading exhaust gases past the turbine. This will cause increased lag and generally underboosting.
FWIW, I shortened the rod so that it was just slightly too short to attach to the wastegate. I used compressed air on the line to the Forge unit. This extends the rod so I could slip it onto the wastegate. Removing the compressed air results in a snug fit.
I spike 7psi and hold 6 on a bone stock MSP with the Forge Actuator adjusted using this method. Been about 3 years and 60,000km no issues.
Turbojuice
Member
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
I think I am just gonna do some trial and error stuff until it works haha. getting an oil leak fixed up on the 26th, lubing my swaybar bushings again, and gonna do a couple of turns on that WGA until my trial and error method of tuning it work out for me to get about 6-8 lbs.
Wish me luck!
slolifesux
Member
just did mine with a buddy that's a bomb mechanic. took about an hour, he got the e-clip on and off first try lol.
newspeed4me
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
Just did mine this weekend as well. My neighbor's mechanic brought over a smoke machine that plugs into the vacuum lines to find the leak - and sure enough it was my wastegate actuator. My car was also having all the problems with rough idling, over-boosting and idle drops from high RPM. I did this replacement by myself using the information from this site. Guess I'm not very mechanically inclined as others - took me 5 hours or so to get it all done, but most of the time trying to get to the e-clip. Didn't get one of those handy e-clip tools, finally got to it with a pair of 7" needle-nose and opened the plyers on each end of the clip to spread it open and pop it off. Then just took the clip at the end of the plyers and popped it back on.
Car is running SMOOTH now - no more rough idle or idle drop. I don't have a boost guage, but it will be here on Wed. Just happy I didn't jack my car up while it was over-boosting.
Car is running SMOOTH now - no more rough idle or idle drop. I don't have a boost guage, but it will be here on Wed. Just happy I didn't jack my car up while it was over-boosting.
newspeed4me
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
So I installed the ATP actuator and was curious about all this. I also had to extend the arm in order to get it over the pin and assuming that it's holding 'snug'. Installed my boost guage last night - seem to peak out 7-8 PSI and hold steady at 6 - I'm also bone stock.
It's a bit odd though - 2nd gear and only 2nd gear I seem to level out at 5 psi. Not sure if it's a big deal or if something isn't working correctly, but just thought I might throw that in there.
It's a bit odd though - 2nd gear and only 2nd gear I seem to level out at 5 psi. Not sure if it's a big deal or if something isn't working correctly, but just thought I might throw that in there.
Turbojuice
Member
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
So I recently did this again with my Forge WGA, and didn't put the heat shield back on. Is there any reason why the lack of a heat shield around the WGA would cause any problems? It seems like the heat shield there wouldn't really do much anyways...?
Turbojuice
Member
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
Good to know. I have to work under the hood a little more when I get back to my car, so I might just throw it back on, but thank you!
Alright guys, so I am planning on replacing the WGA with the ATP version, along with the connecting bracket and vacuum line to the t-connector, BPV, and intake manifold. Any recommendations on the easiest way to do so? Removing the turbo from the exhaust manifold and j-pipe?
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
In my experience it is always easier to remove more stuff... but if you're creative, its faster to do it in-car. Why are you replacing the bracket if I may ask?
And the intake manifold is a completely different (and much more complex) job...
I just decided to replace both to keep it up-to-date. And I am just replacing the vacuum line to the intake manifold, not removing it or anything. I feel like if I just remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold and j-pipe it would be a much easier job. Do you think I need to remove the whole exhaust manifold to do it?
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
what about a steel bracket do you feel can go "out of date"? And now I understand, your list had me confuzzled. If you're doing vac lines, I recommend getting a vac block and running individual lines, you'll be much happier with the result.
As for removing the turbo, remember that if you remove it, you have to contend with not just the physical mounts, but also the oil and coolant lines. I didn't go that route (and don't have the car anymore), so I can't really tell you if that will work.. I know that it was daunting enough for me that I just dealt with the cramped quarters and did it in place. Pulled the EGR out of the way, and wrestled with it for about 3 hours in 30* weather... done deal. A long screwdriver, a magnet, and a flashlight made the e-clip actually not that bad of a job.
As for removing the turbo, remember that if you remove it, you have to contend with not just the physical mounts, but also the oil and coolant lines. I didn't go that route (and don't have the car anymore), so I can't really tell you if that will work.. I know that it was daunting enough for me that I just dealt with the cramped quarters and did it in place. Pulled the EGR out of the way, and wrestled with it for about 3 hours in 30* weather... done deal. A long screwdriver, a magnet, and a flashlight made the e-clip actually not that bad of a job.
I dunno, I just figured I might as well buy the bracket since I got the wastegate and vacuum line with it. So you didn't even remove the exhaust manifold or j pipe? And what vacuum block do you recommend getting and where does it connect?
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
Any vac block will be the same. Basically it replaces a piece of the brake booster line. No, I did not unbolt anything, other than the EGR, so I could get a wrench in. a ratcheting 10mm box wrench would make the job a lot easier in-car.
Well since I am replacing the bracket as well, I might have to take a little off to be able to fit it in there. How were you able to reach the clip and what not behind the manifold?
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
As stated above, I don't see the point in doing so, and it is complicating your life. Its not a wear item, and if cosmetics is your goal.. then I guess I would argue there are a LOT better places to spend your time.
Well either way, how were you able to reach the clip and what not behind the manifold?
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
