blow off vavle???

[FORZDA 1]

....all the aftermarket companies out there making s*** for these engines and your telling me that the OEM PLASTIC BPV is the best?

Yes, that'sw exactly what I'm saying. You can beleive whatever you want, but I've been running the OEM BPV at well over 20 psi and it works the best. There is more to a BPV than the materials it is made from. The FUNCTION is what makes it the best and you can't buy a better FUNCTIONING BPV for the Speed3/6.

....ive read a few people saying....

That's your problem here. You have NO experience and are operating from hearsay.

the forge seems to have gotten good reviews though, whats your take on them?

I've run several different BPVs, including the Forge, and they all make lots of cool noises, but NONE function as smoothly and quickly as the OEM. I could go into all the technical details, but I've already done that in more than one thread, so I'll end my discussion with you on the subject. When you have a Speed3/6 and want some more info....

 

[FORZDA 1]

how would one know when there stock bpv/bov is leaking?

and how dose one know the difference in the two?

If yours is leaking, the boost will be very low and the power will drop off significantly. There will be no mistake. Note that there are MANY other things that can result in this effect, so don't automatically think the BPV is the problem because it is most likely NOT.

Are you asking the difference in a BPV(bypass Valve) and a BOV(Blow off valve)? They are essentially the same function and that is to relieve the manifold pressure when the throttle is closed while under boost. The difference is that a BPV recirculates the air back into the intake ahead of the turbo and a BOV vents it to the atmosphere. The DISI requires a BPV to ensure the engine doesn't run too rich when the air pressure is relieved. There is much more technical detail here as well, but suffice to say a recirculating BPV is the best setup for this car.

 

[dandan2]

so ur sayin the piece of crap stocker is better then running an hks ssqv recirculated? ur calling justanothermp5 ignorant but ur the one being a tool. he may not drive a speed 3 or 6 but he does drive a turbo fsde, wich is also very finiky with bov's venting to atmospher. on any turbo car with the maf before the bov with be reading x amount of air that never makes it to the manifold causeing any car to run rich between shifts. and i also believe that there are better products to run then the stock bpv. while it may work just fine for slightly higher then stock boost levels i wouldnt trust my motor to it.

 

[monstersix]

the stock bpv for my speed 6 was not holding boost, i bought the rs and i held boost longer, im running 19psi on my speed6 and hold boost all the way till redline, the stocker is a pile of s***, i originally bought a bov for the sound then noticed i could hold boost a little longer, AGREED spending 2-3 hundred on a bov is rediculusly a waste of money, but for the stock bpv i was worth it to me, YES i could of just got a forge bpv for 1-200 but it was the first thing i ever bought for the car, and i had no experience with turbo cars,

but it is nice to have a sick sound from the turbo,

 

[Suspect987]

I've got to agree with Forzda if the stock BPV isn't leaking there is no reason to replace it. Now if you just want the aesthetic look and sound of an aftermarket unit that's your choice. Forzda is just being a bit overzealous, and understandably so. We spend a lot of time and money on our cars and with a little extra education we as owners can save a little money and put it toward other mods we want/need to beef up our cars. I personally think the exterior mods are a waste of time until all the engine/tuning mods are complete but others prefer looks to performance. To each there own, Forzda is just trying to educate new owners that there money is better spent elsewhere until you can determine that mod is truly required. Enjoy your purchase, and in turn enjoy the roads. Drive safe folks.

 

[monstersix]

all agreed, to each his own, i focus on everything, looks, performance, all at the same time, all advice is taken in from everyone, thats what forums are for, advice and same interest, thanks for all the advice.

 

[JDM-P5]

Well...we all know Mazda doesn't exactly give us the "best from the factory"...I have an HKS...VTA'ing. So maybe I'm one of the lucky ones. Everyone said to run recirc blah blah. I have had 0 adverse affects. No drop off in performance or mpg.
Also I guess the stock intake would be the best out there too...since it doesn't leak...lol. Well, I went ahead and bought a cheap Mazda6 intake & it works perfectly....sounds better + better performance.
/$0.02

 

[Aralliius]

If yours is leaking, the boost will be very low and the power will drop off significantly. There will be no mistake. Note that there are MANY other things that can result in this effect, so don't automatically think the BPV is the problem because it is most likely NOT.

Are you asking the difference in a BPV(bypass Valve) and a BOV(Blow off valve)? They are essentially the same function and that is to relieve the manifold pressure when the throttle is closed while under boost. The difference is that a BPV recirculates the air back into the intake ahead of the turbo and a BOV vents it to the atmosphere. The DISI requires a BPV to ensure the engine doesn't run too rich when the air pressure is relieved. There is much more technical detail here as well, but suffice to say a recirculating BPV is the best setup for this car.

thank you! that expiation educated my ass haha.
now i heard somewhere turning up the boost on our cars causes alot of problems is this true???! and i mean problems as far as engine maintenance. and the little bit higher boost ***** everything up.

 

[Suspect987]

thank you! that expiation educated my ass haha.
now i heard somewhere turning up the boost on our cars causes alot of problems is this true???! and i mean problems as far as engine maintenance. and the little bit higher boost ***** everything up.

Boost is only an issue once you reach certain levels. The best explanation I have read recently was by Hypertech on their forum. At which level you find the most optimum gain versus boost levels. At a certain point you are risking damage to your turbo and engine without reaping the gains you would expect. Hypertech and man others have spent a lot of time studying our cars to optimize the stock engine and ecu to its peak. I enjoyed their write up and the time they spent studying our cars.

Edit:

Can't find the link I am looking for to reference for my post.

 

[monstersix]

i ran my rs atomosphier and it was backfiring like a mother ******, HAHA, so i put it back to recirc. i have my boost set to 18-19psi with a spike(which i ******* hate) at 21psi,
i had a serius boost cut at that psi, so i got the boost cut defender, helped alot,

i guess what im searching for is,,,, what is safe boost for disi motor? and is spiking normal???

 

[Suspect987]

i ran my rs atomosphier and it was backfiring like a mother ******, HAHA, so i put it back to recirc. i have my boost set to 18-19psi with a spike(which i ******* hate) at 21psi,
i had a serius boost cut at that psi, so i got the boost cut defender, helped alot,

i guess what im searching for is,,,, what is safe boost for disi motor? and is spiking normal???

Here is one of the posts from Hypertech which I completely agree with for all boosted cars.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123785742-FAQ-How-much-boost-should-I-see-with-the-Hypertech-tune

One flat boost level is not the way to go for optimal output from the turbo. You need to tune your car with an AP or something like the Hypertech. Without a tuning option you are more likely to damage your car in the short term than reap long term benefits from it. Search the forum and you will get a lot of answers but typically somewhere around 18psi appears to be a safe maximum.

 

[justanothermp5]

18psi? dont MS6's run that from the factory?
either way, that seems like enough, especially coming from that tiny K04 turbo...the air temps have to be super high at that boost level

 

[Aralliius]

i ran my rs atomosphier and it was backfiring like a mother ******, HAHA, so i put it back to recirc. i have my boost set to 18-19psi with a spike(which i ******* hate) at 21psi,
i had a serius boost cut at that psi, so i got the boost cut defender, helped alot,

i guess what im searching for is,,,, what is safe boost for disi motor? and is spiking normal???

ive always thought with a MBC, and Aftermarket BPV that Boost would not kreep..

 

[FORZDA 1]

thank you! that expiation educated my ass haha.
now i heard somewhere turning up the boost on our cars causes alot of problems is this true???! and i mean problems as far as engine maintenance. and the little bit higher boost ***** everything up.

The issue with just "turning up the boost" is that the ECU has a set Boost and Load limits that drive throttle closure and fuel cut. If you don't address these with something like the AP, or even a canned tune from the HT, you will definitley have problems with fuel cutting and poor performance at WOT. The max boost allowed is 18.21 psi @ 5k rpms and it drops to 14.53 @ 6.5k rpms.
The ECU Boost targets are 15.66 psi @ 2.5k rpms and it drops to 8.89 @ 6.5k rpms.

If you intercept the MAP signal and clamp it at a lower value or run a MBC with a "bleeder valve" on the MAP sensor (BCD), you bypass all the safeguards that prevent popping the motor.

 

[FORZDA 1]

i ran my rs atomosphier and it was backfiring like a mother ******, HAHA, so i put it back to recirc. i have my boost set to 18-19psi with a spike(which i ******* hate) at 21psi,
i had a serius boost cut at that psi, so i got the boost cut defender, helped alot,

i guess what im searching for is,,,, what is safe boost for disi motor? and is spiking normal???

The reason you get spikes is that the Wategate Duty Cycle and Boost Dynamics tables are set for the stock boost levels. When you run higher boost without tuning the ECU for it, you get these spikes and erratic boost control. The BCD will let you pop the motor and cry in your beer (if you're old enough to drink....)

 

[SMOKEYS36SHOP]

forzda its sad to see people on here doubt you when you have done nothing more than be helpful on this site and others...whats also sad is all of this has been discussed in other threads..and forza has proven time and time again he knows what he is talking about....in regards to the stock bpv...its apparent that since forzda has an almost 300 awhp speed 6 running 20 psi with the stage 3 bnr turbo on the stock bpv ...that its working perfectly fine at holding additional boost.

i have stated before that my stock bpv leaked and the only reason why i upgraded to what i have is because i was looking for something with more sound and that could hold boost better...how i know i wasn't holding proper boost was when i first got my boost gauge and saw that i was holding boost around 12-13 lbs ...but since i upgraded to the hybrid bov that my boost levels returned to normal...but let me tell you i wish i just went with a simple bpv from the start...the bov sound is very nice to have on the car..but you can sacrifice so much at the same time without the proper tune.

 

[Aralliius]

and thats what my car is doing now holding about 11-13 lbs of boost, maybe its time for me to change my bpv aswell??

The issue with just "turning up the boost" is that the ECU has a set Boost and Load limits that drive throttle closure and fuel cut. If you don't address these with something like the AP, or even a canned tune from the HT, you will definitley have problems with fuel cutting and poor performance at WOT. The max boost allowed is 18.21 psi @ 5k rpms and it drops to 14.53 @ 6.5k rpms.
The ECU Boost targets are 15.66 psi @ 2.5k rpms and it drops to 8.89 @ 6.5k rpms.

If you intercept the MAP signal and clamp it at a lower value or run a MBC with a "bleeder valve" on the MAP sensor (BCD), you bypass all the safeguards that prevent popping the motor.

you are the man lol. well cause right now im running a MBC but set for stock boost levels and was going to temp uping it but i was scared and havnt touched it. but i may because it seems like the ecu is keeping me from hiting stock boost in the lower gears..

and if your curious Forzda im running a Hallman MBC.

 

[FORZDA 1]

and thats what my car is doing now holding about 11-13 lbs of boost, maybe its time for me to change my bpv aswell??


....... right now im running a MBC but set for stock boost levels and was going to temp uping it but i was scared and havnt touched it. but i may because it seems like the ecu is keeping me from hiting stock boost in the lower gears..

and if your curious Forzda im running a Hallman MBC.

The hallman is a ball-spring seat type MBC. It blocks boost until the spring is "unseated". As far as MBCs go, it is the "best" type.

How do you know you have it set to "stock" boost levels? At what rpms/Load?

FYI, a MBC set to "stock" levels at low rpms will NOT allow the boost to rise with rpms. MBCs control boost at MAX values only, so you must adjust it to the desired boost at ~4k+ rpms. Note that when you do this to get the max boost you want for power, the boost will likely spike into fuel cut at lower rpms. This is the way of a MBC. EBC is the ONLY way to go for any decent control of boost across the revs. MBC is for pure racing setups that only need boost controlled at WOT max rpms only...... IMO, the DISI will NOT like a MBC for street use.

It is certainly possible that your BPV is leaking, but not likely. When did you notice this "low boost" issue?

FYI, the DISI ECU doesn't target "boost" unless the Load value is well below the Load target. What this means is that on any given day, your indicated boost will VARY according to the calculated Load. This ECU function is why so many folks swear they have "more" boost, hold it longer, etc., etc. when they replace their OEM BPV because the Calculated Load conditions were different in the before/after test perception.

 

[Aralliius]

The hallman is a ball-spring seat type MBC. It blocks boost until the spring is "unseated". As far as MBCs go, it is the "best" type.

How do you know you have it set to "stock" boost levels? At what rpms/Load?

FYI, a MBC set to "stock" levels at low rpms will NOT allow the boost to rise with rpms. MBCs control boost at MAX values only, so you must adjust it to the desired boost at ~4k+ rpms. Note that when you do this to get the max boost you want for power, the boost will likely spike into fuel cut at lower rpms. This is the way of a MBC. EBC is the ONLY way to go for any decent control of boost across the revs. MBC is for pure racing setups that only need boost controlled at WOT max rpms only...... IMO, the DISI will NOT like a MBC for street use.

It is certainly possible that your BPV is leaking, but not likely. When did you notice this "low boost" issue?

FYI, the DISI ECU doesn't target "boost" unless the Load value is well below the Load target. What this means is that on any given day, your indicated boost will VARY according to the calculated Load. This ECU function is why so many folks swear they have "more" boost, hold it longer, etc., etc. when they replace their OEM BPV because the Calculated Load conditions were different in the before/after test perception.

i know the MBC is set for stock boost levels because i have it turned all the way out and the instructions said to leave it out for stock boost.
ive noticed the low boost issue since i installed the boost gauge. i know theres no type of miss read because its getting the read directly from the turbo. with the way my local shop set it up. and i got the MBC because my stock Boost Solenoid was going out, weird fluctuating boost levels not cause by anything else because the car hasnt been modded at all.

i was thinking oh maybe its just the way the Controller is set or something and was gonna turn it up just so i was always at 15 lbs at WOT. but started reading up on here. and thats where im at now.

 

[FORZDA 1]

i know the MBC is set for stock boost levels because i have it turned all the way out and the instructions said to leave it out for stock boost.
ive noticed the low boost issue since i installed the boost gauge. i know theres no type of miss read because its getting the read directly from the turbo. with the way my local shop set it up. and i got the MBC because my stock Boost Solenoid was going out, weird fluctuating boost levels not cause by anything else because the car hasnt been modded at all.

i was thinking oh maybe its just the way the Controller is set or something and was gonna turn it up just so i was always at 15 lbs at WOT. but started reading up on here. and thats where im at now.

Do you have the OEM BCS bypassed or removed? It MUST be bypassed while running a MBC. The OEM BCS is definitley not the best item for that function. I would make sure your boost guage is reading correctly by cross-checking with another direct-read guage to make SURE your guage is correct. If so, then go ahead and dial up the boost. You can go as high as 17.5 while stock and not see any real problems, unless the air temp gets real cold, then you may need to dial it down a psi or so. I recommend you save up for an AP, even while stock, so you can get the most from a stock setup. It will take some tuning though....