What have you done to your P5 today?
- Thread starter Tg5
- Start date
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
From what I've been told one of the differences is that they utilized different mounting points for the rsb. The MSP rsb will fit the P5 cross member but the alignment of the mounting holes is off just enough resulting in premature bushing wear causing the dreaded clunk. That and price...the MSP is $93 and the P5 is $173 (taken from OMP). I know Ivan has the MSP cross member, maybe he's aware of any other differences?
03zoomzoom
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 3 i Touring
Don't remind me...that was a long day....ha ha ha j/k buddy.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
well today, i drive a friend to a local performance shop that he is having his work done at
get out of the car (turbo timer still running) walk around the back, and the car is ******* smoking out of the exhaust (pissed)
so apparently my turbo seals are taking a s***, slowly but surely, and i really dont want to buy another t25 when i plan on upgrading to a t3/t4 soon anyways
damit, great timing
get out of the car (turbo timer still running) walk around the back, and the car is ******* smoking out of the exhaust (pissed)
so apparently my turbo seals are taking a s***, slowly but surely, and i really dont want to buy another t25 when i plan on upgrading to a t3/t4 soon anyways
damit, great timing
03zoomzoom
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 3 i Touring
...let's just say this. I work at a dealership that has lifts, air tools and I've got quite a bit of experience and it took me the better part of a day to swap the cross member. I would never even think about doing this in a garage on jack stands. Those darn toe links were the hardest part.
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
So effin' true.....I hate rust! Should I decide to re-use my stock rsb, it's getting sanded down and painted. Although I was able to rip most of the current paint off by hand. I've got the PB Blaster on hand and access to a torch, tig welder, air gun and tap/die set via my neighbor. 
Still not sure what I'm going to do....first things first I want to figure this current problem out.
Still not sure what I'm going to do....first things first I want to figure this current problem out.
I have the msp rear subframe and yes, the msp one is reinforced to accommodate the thicker rear sway bar. so, yea the mounting holes are different.
is that what you guys are asking? i can take pics of both if needed. (when I get home later today)
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
(nervous) Well that isn't helping with the confidence. lol Thanks for the input though.......
When re-installing the rsb is it necessary to use a jack on the brackets? I've read where some people did....maybe this is why I'm not getting it to 'line-up'? If I place the rsb on the top bolts of the rear cross member and place the rsb above the lateral link it extends well past the lateral link and the MSP end links are too long.
If I place it below the lateral link, the endlinks are waaaay too short and it sits almost even with the lateral link (meaning if I attach the end link to the tab and pull up on it the ball of the end link hits the lateral link. Sorry, I don't have any pics....that would make it so much easier to try and explain.
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
Cool...so it is reinforced....good to know. See my initial post above as to how this convo got started....any suggestions?
And guess I should have started my own thread.....
03zoomzoom
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 3 i Touring
It's not a "hard" project. It is very frustrating though. Like I said, it's those darn toe links that took the longest. Have you seen the sway bar links I made? They work great, and are a million times stronger than the flimsy stock ones.
Signature Sound
Banned
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- stock G15
how many miles you got on the turbo? are you sure its not just over oiling it? I did that to mine when I had the VF-22. I upgraded the oil feed line from AN-4 to AN-6. Check your pipes to see if you are getting oil from any other source like the PCV/ valve cover. My turbo didnt last very long after the coking and leaking started happening. Went from slight sqealing sounds to full blown failure in 2 weeks! Hope you figure something out man!
Is the "lol" mean that's a sarcastic question? If not, the crank pulley is a piece of cake. Ask member KZL_99ES. He had his on and off from start to finish in 30 mins. heh-heh
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
its the stock MSP feed line, so i think its a 3AN...not 100% on that
and as far as mileage, i have no idea, i bought the turbo from another guy with a turbo p5
no other oil could be getting by, i dont have the valve cover hooked up to the intake in any way, just the PCV to the intake mani if that makes sense
the turbo hasnt been spinning like it used to once i shut off the car, so i figured its just the turbo showing its age
and as far as mileage, i have no idea, i bought the turbo from another guy with a turbo p5
no other oil could be getting by, i dont have the valve cover hooked up to the intake in any way, just the PCV to the intake mani if that makes sense
the turbo hasnt been spinning like it used to once i shut off the car, so i figured its just the turbo showing its age
Sounds good! Thanks!....still gotta find a belt though...
ok, I think I know whats wrong.
when you mount the sway bar, the bar should be as level to the ground as possible. if the bar is pointed in a downward position, then it will flip like what happened to you.
now it would be to your benifit to get adjustable endlinks. This should elimiate your troubles.
going back the reinforced tabs...look at these pics. its hard to see in this pic, but if you look where the bushing mount, you will see a small reinforced tab. this is the only difference between the msp and stock p5 subframe.
msp subframe:
now, look at this one (P5)
now, it should look like this when done. notice how the bar sits level with the ground.
does this make sense?
