What have you done to your P5 today?

They are the same, but they aren't...the German ones (old ones) are louder, not to mention I have yet to hear a knockoff sound anywhere near what it sounds like...

Edit: My GERMAN Hella horns are for sale...just in case anyone is interested...lol...
 
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Changed my radiator hose to AN-20 stainless steel hose. What a pain in the ass. I need to get hose end finishers for the upper hose. The double clamps are just for short term.
 

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SS hoses do look good. Remember though, rubber hoses let the coolant breathe while the SS keeps the heat in. Keep an eye on your temps.
 
SS hoses do look good. Remember though, rubber hoses let the coolant breathe while the SS keeps the heat in. Keep an eye on your temps.

I had to use SS because of the way its routed by the Dp. The old one was zip tied to stay out of the way, and ended up rubbing thru and caused a leak. I have been driving it around and the temps are exactly the same. Thanks for the heads up tho.

Justanother: your car looks so damn clean. Great shot next to that other one.
 
How to maybe? I have to do the same due to the current set up with the supercharger. Every once an a while the hose rubs against the headers. Already had to change it once
 
jdm engineswap

i swapped a direct japanese imported engine in my 2002 mp5, really there is no difference other than minor differences in vacuum hose,pumps and ecu connections if anyone has ever heard of someone doing this, i need the most info possible to make my life a little easier. please im in some some major binds and seekin answers asap, thanks
 
How to maybe? I have to do the same due to the current set up with the supercharger. Every once an a while the hose rubs against the headers. Already had to change it once

oh man, it would make your head spin. perhaps mine isnt the right car to do a how to on because of the setup I have. But here are a few things I ran into doing this:

The stock water neck is 1.125" so AN-20 should have been perfect. The problem is that the SS hose doesnt stretch like regular rubber hose. So putting it on was HELL! But I got it to work.

For the upper hose: I used about 10" of hose. AN-20 finishers will not fit. So I am ordering AN-22 to see if that will. I dont have the stock radiator, so measure yours first.

The lower hose: AN-20 finishers will work, but need to be slightly bored out on the open end to fit over the stop tabs. This will allow proper clamp alignment. I dont know the length needed for the stock radiator, sorry.

I purchased 3 feet of AN-20 hose and 3 AN-20 hose end finishers from www.race-mart.com for $85. Its the cheapest place I could find. It seems like a lot of money, but I dont think it will ever leak again.

When cutting the SS hose, it fray's the ends less if you tape it before you cut. I used duct tape. Wrap around the cut mark really tight. Then use a cut off wheel and cut slowly.
 
I looked at it, and that is it. i'm driving my dads king ranch this week... from 130hp and 135tq to 400hp and 815tq daily and up to 490hp and 910tq (eek) If it wasn't automatic i may have a hard time going back to my car. but in the end i would rather drive my car (drive)
 
i swapped a direct japanese imported engine in my 2002 mp5, really there is no difference other than minor differences in vacuum hose,pumps and ecu connections if anyone has ever heard of someone doing this, i need the most info possible to make my life a little easier. please im in some some major binds and seekin answers asap, thanks

i think focus had one of those at one point IIRC.
 
I looked at it, and that is it. i'm driving my dads king ranch this week... from 130hp and 135tq to 400hp and 815tq daily and up to 490hp and 910tq (eek) If it wasn't automatic i may have a hard time going back to my car. but in the end i would rather drive my car (drive)

you're still driving a truck...I'll take a car every day of the week.
 
ya, i'll take my car any day too except at the drag strip... at least for now till i get enough money for a speedcircuit turbo kit! My dad boosts 25psi at take off at the drag strip!!! and he has seen 43psi driving on the highway! we just need the truck at work, if we didn't i'd be driving my car.
 
Attempted to install my rear end links last night.....

Long story short...after cutting off the stock end links when I lowered the car, I bought the MSP end links as my research showed that I now needed the longer links to keep the rsb (note: I am using the stock P5 rsb) from flipping 180 degrees. Well, jacked the car up last night and the links were a wee bit too long....so I started thinking that maybe I had to drop the rsb below the lateral link. Removed the rsb and placed it below and now the end links are too short?

I've read the how-to for the MSP rsb install and done some other searching which all leads to me needing the MSP end links but it's looking like the stock P5 are what I need....any other suggestions?

Oh, and I sheared one of the nuts found inside the crossmember when I loosened the bolt with an impact gun....took about 20 minutes to remove that bolt/nut....good times.
 
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Both endlinks (P5 & MSP) should work... The bar moves so, although the bar won't be optimally pre-loaded, it should bolt up to the endlinks regardless. Is the bar backwards? Pics would help.

I'm not familiar with the P5 swaybar, but it shouldn't change anything, I don't think...

Just upgrade to the Racingbeat rear swaybar... You will love the difference. Should balance the car perfectly with the P5 front sway bar.

PS, I'm looking to upgrade to the Progress RSB soon, so I would have my RB RSB for sale...
 
The MSP links are a bit longer which is why I bought them. Read some stories of the rsb flipping 180 and causing all kinds of havoc.... Starting to think that might only be the case when using the Racing Beat bar though???? Bar isn't backwards as it had been mounted to the crossmember and clunking on the lateral links since I lowered the car. As for pics, since I had the bar off and sheared a nut, it is currently sitting in the hatch....

I've been contemplating upgrading but to do it the right way would involve an MSP rear crossmember, so add another $100 to the cost of the bar, so on and so forth.
 
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