Rotors and pads - Where do you guys buy them?

[Katner]

Need to replace all four disks and get some new pads. I don't need slotted or drilled, just a good premium disk that won't crap out quite as quick as the OEM stuff.

Where do you recommend I shop?

 

[SGT_OKINAWA]

Need to replace all four disks and get some new pads. I don't need slotted or drilled, just a good premium disk that won't crap out quite as quick as the OEM stuff.

Where do you recommend I shop?

Here let me Google that for you...

(coffee) really have no idea man, when we don't know...

1. How much you want to spend?
1.1 What type are you looking for, cheap 'good premium disk' or expensive 'good premium disk' ... all makers will say their 'good premium disks' are the best.
2. Will you be doing ALL the work yourself, or just want the parts?
3. You want to go to the store, or is on-line shipping open to you?
3.1. You want them when, next day, next week, a year from now?
4. What brake 'problems' have you had in the past, you said 'crap out' WHY?
4.1 Will this 'brake job' open more Pandora's box and revile other issues, like brake lines that need replaced and are you willing to do it all.
5. You know how to bleed brakes the right way?
6. Do you pull a trailer, load the back of your 5 with tons of stuff?

I could go on, but please help us, help you.
Let us know.
Peace!(rei)

 

[Robotazky]

Need to replace all four disks and get some new pads. I don't need slotted or drilled, just a good premium disk that won't crap out quite as quick as the OEM stuff.

Where do you recommend I shop?

I bought the regular EBC non-slotted, non-dimpled, non-drilled rotors. They are really nice rotors. I'm very happy with the quality and the price. Now, these were put on my Focus, but the Focus had awful brakes OEM straight off the lot so I consider the comparison to be a very good go-by. Since the 5's brakes are actually pretty good from the factory, I would expect the EBCs to do an excellent job.

The EBC rotors are made of a very high quality material, are manufactured on extremely good state-of-the-art lathes, and have a coating that keeps rust from forming. This coating comes in very handy at keeping the rust out of the venting surfaces. Rust build up in the vents decreases air flow by causing a lot of turbulence.

I rarely will tell someone without serious deliberation that they can trust a product, but the EBC rotors are really high quality products. The pads are of course really sweet, too. I really don't think you can go wrong with EBC, at least the regular rotors anyway. I think I paid about $130 for mine and I'd pay it again in a heartbeat.

 

[A1an]

I agree with the EBC stuff. I've used their rotors on two of my prior Foci and the quality was top notch. Pads are pretty nice too.

 

[Katner]

Here let me Google that for you...

(coffee) really have no idea man, when we don't know...

1. How much you want to spend?
1.1 What type are you looking for, cheap 'good premium disk' or expensive 'good premium disk' ... all makers will say their 'good premium disks' are the best.
2. Will you be doing ALL the work yourself, or just want the parts?
3. You want to go to the store, or is on-line shipping open to you?
3.1. You want them when, next day, next week, a year from now?
4. What brake 'problems' have you had in the past, you said 'crap out' WHY?
4.1 Will this 'brake job' open more Pandora's box and revile other issues, like brake lines that need replaced and are you willing to do it all.
5. You know how to bleed brakes the right way?
6. Do you pull a trailer, load the back of your 5 with tons of stuff?

I could go on, but please help us, help you.
Let us know.
Peace!(rei)

I appreciate your questions but I had already Google'd this issue. Some times there are too many choices, and one doesn't know which of those is advisable. By "crap out" I meant "die." My rotors are warped beyond being able to be machined. On my last two cars I machined them twice before having to replace them. A mazda tech himself told me that the OEM stuff is effective but not built to endure and an aftermarket upgrade would be recomended if I wanted more life from my braking system. I'll be doing the work myself but if I run into issues I'm not afraid to have it professionally done. Sure people won't back the product, but they will back their labor, and that's good enough for me. A lot of shops mark up parts upon installation anyway.

I bought the regular EBC non-slotted, non-dimpled, non-drilled rotors. They are really nice rotors. I'm very happy with the quality and the price. Now, these were put on my Focus, but the Focus had awful brakes OEM straight off the lot so I consider the comparison to be a very good go-by. Since the 5's brakes are actually pretty good from the factory, I would expect the EBCs to do an excellent job.

The EBC rotors are made of a very high quality material, are manufactured on extremely good state-of-the-art lathes, and have a coating that keeps rust from forming. This coating comes in very handy at keeping the rust out of the venting surfaces. Rust build up in the vents decreases air flow by causing a lot of turbulence.

I rarely will tell someone without serious deliberation that they can trust a product, but the EBC rotors are really high quality products. The pads are of course really sweet, too. I really don't think you can go wrong with EBC, at least the regular rotors anyway. I think I paid about $130 for mine and I'd pay it again in a heartbeat.

$130 for all four? Or, assuming your focus had drums in back, I'm guessing $130 for the front axle set?

 

[5zoom]

How many miles are you guys getting out of the pads/rotors. I had my front pads changed and rotors turned around 40k. There was pad left at that mileage, but I had a vibration in the wheel that was cured after turning the rotors. The rear are original in my 08 with 54k on it and have plenty of pad left. BTW, its an automatic so I use the brakes and don't downshift the tranny that often to slow down.

 

[Katner]

I'm at 57,000km (~35,000miles). Took my car into get the rotors machined and the dude said I had about 5% on all four pads and all four rotors were so grooved that machining wouldn't help too much.

Doesn't surprise me to be honest. I think the stock braking system performs very well for OE. I got a little more longevity out of my Civic brakes but they had nowhere near the stopping power and considering the weight of the Mazda5 that says a lot.

How many miles are you guys getting out of the pads/rotors. I had my front pads changed and rotors turned around 40k. There was pad left at that mileage, but I had a vibration in the wheel that was cured after turning the rotors. The rear are original in my 08 with 54k on it and have plenty of pad left. BTW, its an automatic so I use the brakes and don't downshift the tranny that often to slow down.

 

[Robotazky]

Yes Katner, just the fronts. Worth every penny.

 

[KBrian]

Love the brakes on the 5. Best OE brakes I ever pressed a right foot into.

 

[was98strat]

Love the brakes on the 5. Best OE brakes I ever pressed a right foot into.

+1 the brakes on the 5 are great (granted my previous cars were all NA with mushy pedals). the added bonus is they last FOREVER!!!!! I'm at 120k, still on the original pads and rotors. Dealer thinks I'll get to 136ish before I have to replace them. Most of my other cars, I'd be on my second replacements by now!!!

Note: I'm also a "spirited" driver so the brakes lasting this long are a real testament to their quality and durability!!!!!

 

[A1an]

Think I may have some brake issues with my '06 (under 21k on odometer). Driver front rotor has a pretty deep gouge. Outboard pad on the driver front also doesn't seem to sit parallel to the rotor (bottom edge is much closer than the top). Looks like I'll be doing the front brakes on this sooner than later.

 

[Robotazky]

A deep gouge is almost always a rock or something. But with so few miles it could be some kind of rust/wear pattern, too. Do you know why that happened?

 

[A1an]

I haven't had a chance to take a really good look at it. Brakes operate perfectly (no shuddering, issues with fade, etc). It just has this deep groove on the driver side. Kicking myself for not seeing this when I bought the car...I would have had them do a brake job before hand. (hand)

I'm concerned about the outboard pads. Front outboard pads on the driver front and passenger front sit way closer to the rotor at the bottom than they do at the top. Is this normal for these brakes on the 5? My SVT Focus had the same calipers but I recall them sitting pretty much parallel to the rotor.

 

[Robotazky]

The only possible way that they could malfunction to cause that would be if they were not installed correctly or they are not lubed correctly and are binding somehow. I think you'll be able to determine the problem when you replace the pads, if you do it yourself.

 

[A1an]

It will be a DIY job...which I am not looking forward to. Last time I dealt with these brakes I had a difficult time getting the retainer spring back onto the caliper. I still have a scar on the palm of my hand from trying to seat the springs on my SVT brakes over four years ago. I can do brakes on any car with my eyes closed but these f-ing retaining springs got the best of me. Any tricks to dealing with them?

 

[Robotazky]

It will be a DIY job...which I am not looking forward to. Last time I dealt with these brakes I had a difficult time getting the retainer spring back onto the caliper. I still have a scar on the palm of my hand from trying to seat the springs on my SVT brakes over four years ago. I can do brakes on any car with my eyes closed but these f-ing retaining springs got the best of me. Any tricks to dealing with them?

Those clips slide right out if you find the right way to do it. It's like a mind bender game. If you're having to physically work hard on it, you're missing the easy way. I cannot remember anything on my Focus or my MX3 specifically. I do remember the first time I did one of them it was a total biotch, but the second time a light bulb went off and it was simple.

 

[DKaz]

I got the value pads straight from Mazda and rotors from Lordco.

The retainer needs a bit of force but it does get in there. I recommend using needle nose pliers to get it in, and be careful getting them out, they are under compression.

 

[njaremka]

.... Rust build up in the vents decreases air flow by causing a lot of turbulence. ...

good stuff in this thread, except this comment.

turbulant flow is actually better for cooling, since air is a very good heat insulator. and, do you know how turbulant the flow is in those vanes already?

 

[DKaz]

Turbulent airflow results in increased air velocity but in loss of airflow volume because it's just air swirling around and around vs. laminar flow entering and exiting the brakes in a prompt manner. Heat dissipation requires maximum airflow.

 

[Tsuru]

IIRC rust dissipates heat less than the original metal irregardless of airflow. Therefore rust is still a factor in the equation.