Idle, terrible humming while going 20+mph, please help

[kudakev615]

under 5 bills is gonna be hard to find. you've gotta lower the sub-frame to get the rack out so its kinda hard to go without a lift/rack. then youre gonna have to an alignment also and that requires an alignment rack. both of those things require a shop so its gonna be hard to save moneyzz onna jobb like this:/

 

[P-Funk!]

I don't think it is 'both'. Fix the bearing first. Drive it. Then if it still has a problem do the rack.

From forum experience - the wheel bearings fail - but almost no p/s racks have gone bad.

 

[bassplayerblink]

I agree, im going to get the bearing fixed,
my car is still spilling power staering fluid though. other then that im not going to pay 400 dollars for one bearing im trying to find a local shop that will do it...and its a pain >.< as i stated before firestone wants 400$ to do it, and thats reddic.

i hope its not my rack n pinon i suppose ill take it in a and get a "diagnostic" but they usually lie about them things anyways and say what ever will make this more money is whats wrong

 

[P-Funk!]

Did you check the hoses on the p/s first? Can you tell where the leak is?

 

[costcommando]

Clean your idle air control valve. I had the same issue with the rpms dropping and cleaning the egr valve didn't help so I cleaned the idle air control valve and bam my idle is super smooth now

 

[ucMP3]

$400 for a bearing?? I don't even think the stealership charges quite that much... You should be able to find a shop to do it for $200, I would think. And clean your EGR & IAC valves out with carb cleaner. Will make a world of difference.

 

[bassplayerblink]

cant find where the leak is coming from found a guy here on island my friend referred me too for the wheel bearing, 150 plus part... then he will pin point where the power stearing is leaking from, he believes its a preasure valve/hose, ill take apart the idle air control valve later on tonight after i get home....thanks for all of the pointers once more!

 

[costcommando]

yea mine was all carboned up made a big difference cleaning it

 

[bassplayerblink]

well i finally found out what the issue was with the power stearing, its a preasure hose that goes directly into the rack n pinon...now i just gotta try to get my hands on this steel line....which is goign to be a b****...but yeah thats just about it in a nut shell...the car is the shop ....bend me over and take my money plz. kthx.

 

[P-Funk!]

Could you replace with a hose and good clamps (cut the bad section out)?

Is it the rubber gasket inside the fitting?

This is why i try to work on my cars myself - no BendOver

 

[Dimitrios]

For the record when checking bad wheel bearings- I had a bad bearing, but it was tough to tell from the wiggle test. The wheel didn't appear to have a lot of play in it, but I still had a bad bearing. The big giveaway with a bearing is noise and vibes that go away when you turn. If you have that, it's a bearing fo sho.

It's not always the case that the "wiggle test" nor the turning is the issue. I replaced my front bearings prior to the winter and the only indication was an over 20 mph "wop" noise.

Once I took the bearing off - no slack in it - it made plenty of noise just rotating it.

Get yourself some Timken bearings out of Autozone.

 

[justanothermp5]

how are your guys' wheel bearings goin out so fast? i have the OG ones in my car and then make barely any noise at all, if they even make noise
my car is normally spooling or making exhaust noise so its hard to tell haha

i drove my cousins car, 05 Nissan Altima, holy hell is that thing loud, it hurts my ears after a while and its stock, wheel bearings are makin a ton of noise

 

[Tzar177]

(dunno) my wheel bearing went out at like 55,000 miles

 

[timd]

OMG... wow... i was gonna start a thread with LITERALLY this EXACT same problem minus the wheel bearing issue...

I might start my own thread as I appear to be missing something on the top of my intake under my strut tower bar.

But... my car is doing the exact same thing. I replaced coils, wires and plugs a week ago... NOTHING... that pissed me off. The CEL says "random missfire" It also said the EGR valve needed to be replaced which is like $180!??! WHAT?! So... are you saying I should clean that and clean the idle control valve and I should be good?! Anyone got a pic of where each is? I know there's two solenoid looking valves on the passenger side of the IM, I'm assuming the one closer to the block is EGR?

Anyone got pics from the manual they have online or something that they could post, I don't have a manual. I'm just trying to get my car ready to sell, so I don't wanna order a manual for one quick repair.

Here's a link to my engine bay, can anyone tell me what's missing from the intake? I ended up zip tying that solenoid for the charcoal canister thing to it, as it was just dangling around?... :/

http://pbckt.com/sU.Ci6

What's your guys' bet for me?

THANKS!!!!

 

[timd]

FIXED!!! BOOOM!!! Cleaning the EGR vavle worked PERFECTLY... runs like a top now... The belt just so happens to not have screamed anymore, UNLESS, does anyone know if that's stuck just a little open if it'd whistle about like a belt screaming?... Just maybe?...

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

So, cleaning the IAC basically involves removing it and spraying some carbon cleaner (Brakleen) in it and scrubbing it out? Basically the same as cleaning the EGR, right?

 

[Tzar177]

So, cleaning the IAC basically involves removing it and spraying some carbon cleaner (Brakleen) in it and scrubbing it out? Basically the same as cleaning the EGR, right?

yup