What have you done to your Mazda6 today?

to paint it properly they should do the whole front of the car anyway ;)

im hoping to get Koni Yellows soon.

Anyone in here look at new shocks/struts for their MS6, or are running something other than OEM? That's been my latest research, and I started a new thread on it.

yayyyy, mine looked real bad off the lot... used car.
badly potted/chipped bumper and hood. recent road dmg was fully claimed insurange wise, replace windshield ANd repaint bumper and hood... looks pristeen, thank GOD the body shop did a good paint job.
 
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yayyyy, mine looked real bad off the lot... used car.
badly potted/chipped bumper and hood. recent road dmg was fully claimed insurange wise, replace windshield ANd repaint bumper and hood... looks pristeen, thank GOD the body shop did a good paint job.[/QUOTE]

I wish they were doing all of that on mine. They are just blending the paint with the rear doors and fenders. I was afraid of this, being they do all makes and models. I wish I could have taken it to a Mazda dealership.
 
Yeah there is an evo owner near where I live that drives by all the time. Smells so bad. Here in FL we don't have emission checks but damn. I would be willing to pay the extra 100 for a cat just for karmas sake.

Yea. Theres no wonder how bad it is when I floor board it in front of someone. :) I looked back today and saw a bunch of black smoke when I shifted.
 
I've ran around the block with the test pipe out to see how loud it would be. It sounds like a Cessna taking off, and drones horribly.

If you're looking to do a DP upgrade, make sure the one you get is catted. It'll keep the sound to a reasonable level, and also help the turbo a bit by providing a bit of back pressure (ours need it). DPs like the ATP catted and CP-e catted would be my suggestions.

I noticed a huge gain in low rang torque with the corksport DP. A little bit more top end. Catted down pipe is your friend. Mine will make you smell like gas if you get out of the car. For some reason the wind always blows the exhaust fumes toward my door when I open it.

i'm just wondering for days i go to the drag strip to see if it would help out any.

the set up i've been considering is the corksport down pipe then getting a cutout in place of the second cat with it bolted to the stock exhaust still so i can have it open when i race or closed on trips and such. still figuring out what i'm going to do exhaust wise as i have other mods planned instead.
 
Gotta do the electronic cutout with the switch wired into the cabin for ultimate sleeper effectiveness though.

I've noticed that my suspension clunk is gone. Did some math, figured out that the difference in size between 225/40/18s and 215/45/18s is 14mm (about 1/2 inch) shorter. I'm thinking that this causes a change in the suspension geometry just enough to stop the clunking. Didn't think something so subtle would do it.
 
Decided to do a 0-60 run on the way home tonight. Hope i didnt mess up my drivetrain. Smelled like clutch for a while afterwards. Road was wet. 5.37sec. My personal best.

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My turn to finally chime in on something other then asking for help!!

Income tax return was spent entirely on ebay
K&N Typhoon intake, currently set up as a short ram due to it being winter in northern maine..
2x10" Kenwood subs, 1000w kenwood 2ch amp
4x 6x8" kenwood door speakers
Kenwood head unit
Carbon vynl wrap that I used on the new dash panel, center console, light panel on the ceiling, plastic strip that the window switches are in on all the doors, and some left that i might do the side mirrors with.
Rear spoiler/wing (waiting for better weather to install)

I have to say that I have never seen such a complex dash. It was crazy trying to install the new stereo..
The typhoon air intake sounds amazing on the 3.0 and gives it a whole lot of pep. Ive got a spintech (borla imitation) muffler that i am putting on it next.


Dont let the fact that its a wagon fool you!

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Anyone looking for a sticky tire cheap, Tire Rack has some Advan Neova AD07s for $99/tire, orig. $266 each. 225/45/18 size.

On that note, I know I went 225/40 when I replaced my RE050s, but has anyone went with 225/45s instead? Doing some size comparisons to a 225/40, it seems like it might be a better fit.
 
Anyone looking for a sticky tire cheap, Tire Rack has some Advan Neova AD07s for $99/tire, orig. $266 each. 225/45/18 size.

On that note, I know I went 225/40 when I replaced my RE050s, but has anyone went with 225/45s instead? Doing some size comparisons to a 225/40, it seems like it might be a better fit.

That's an INSANE deal.


Why is it that when I'm trying to save up some money a deal like this comes out? lol
 
Anyone looking for a sticky tire cheap, Tire Rack has some Advan Neova AD07s for $99/tire, orig. $266 each. 225/45/18 size.

On that note, I know I went 225/40 when I replaced my RE050s, but has anyone went with 225/45s instead? Doing some size comparisons to a 225/40, it seems like it might be a better fit.

(boom07)

its almost worth ordering those now even though i have brand new summers in the back yard
 
That's an INSANE deal.


Why is it that when I'm trying to save up some money a deal like this comes out? lol

Consider yourself lucky, this time. The website says those tires were produced in 2005. That's a deal breaker for me, at any price.
 
I'd like them within 2 years of their production. A lot of the catastrophic tire failures that have been associated with fatalities were found to have been 7+ year old tires that were sold as new. While these are under that timeframe, any truly new tire is better than an older tire, IMHO. I'd pay the extra $100+ per for peace of mind.

Tires are now required to have the date of manufacture stamped on the sidewall (Steve, you probably already know this :), but for those who might be unaware ). The format is a two-digit number for the week of the year, and a 2 digit number for the year. For example, "0109" was manufactured during the first week of 2009. I've bought from Tire Rack twice, and the oldest tire I've received was maybe 18 months. Kudos to TR for not trying to pass these off as new.
 
I'd like them within 2 years of their production. A lot of the catastrophic tire failures that have been associated with fatalities were found to have been 7+ year old tires that were sold as new. While these are under that timeframe, any truly new tire is better than an older tire, IMHO. I'd pay the extra $100+ per for peace of mind.

Tires are now required to have the date of manufacture stamped on the sidewall (Steve, you probably already know this :), but for those who might be unaware ). The format is a two-digit number for the week of the year, and a 2 digit number for the year. For example, "0109" was manufactured during the first week of 2009. I've bought from Tire Rack twice, and the oldest tire I've received was maybe 18 months. Kudos to TR for not trying to pass these off as new.

Yep, the manufacturing week/year is on them. I forgot to check my Blizzaks, but I'll look when I pull them off. Like you, I've never heard of anyone getting old tires unless they said so. I failed to notice anything like that until you mentioned it.

If properly stored, they'll last 8-10 years. When/if they get that old, a thorough inspection is needed to protect yourself (and others) from potential safety issues.
 
Didn't "officialy" do anything to my car today, however I did recieve a tracking order for one of the parts I ordered in... sadly I don't know if it's the BPV, the TIP or both(shrug).

Expected time of arrival is tommorow at 5:00pm, even if it comes late as long as I get it in by this weekend I'll be happy, supposed to be +10 outside this weekend(alright).
 
Didn't "officialy" do anything to my car today, however I did recieve a tracking order for one of the parts I ordered in... sadly I don't know if it's the BPV, the TIP or both(shrug).

Expected time of arrival is tommorow at 5:00pm, even if it comes late as long as I get it in by this weekend I'll be happy, supposed to be +10 outside this weekend(alright).

Nice. Those will take no time to install. Enjoy!
 

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